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Everything posted by augie
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Good progress. I like the 'working' sheaves. Wish I had thought of that.
- 659 replies
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- syren
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Perfect. Subtle and understated, but magnifique as a whole.
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- cheerful
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
augie replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Excellent. Hope your smile is as wide as mine! -
Looks good. Just one thing. I don't know how you've connected the spars to the masts. Normally, I leave them off until the masts are fixed in place, the shrouds all installed and all the ratlines put in. I find that the spars just get in the way and I usually poke an eye out working on the shrouds. It's great to have everything ready to go but I like to have the lower masts finished before I move up to the higher masts. Then on to the spars. Whatever works best for you.
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Chuck hit it on the head with the new outfit, Crown. But no one has yet seen any of their wood. As for the deck, be very careful if you decide to go with Swiss Pear. It's quite dark, even with just natural stain. Here's a link to my Confed log when I started laying the deck: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3371-usf-confederacy-by-augie-ms-164/page-86 Boxwood is always a good choice. But if you like a nice, light color you might consider holly. I'm pretty sure Bob (Rafine) used it on his Syren. Looking forward to your progress.
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Nice, precise work , Bob. I think we'll all agree that the tautness of our rigging will vary with ambient conditions.....particularly humidity. And it will effect each of us differently depending on the local conditions. I'm pretty sure that once the model is put in a good case, it is somewhat protected from wild changes that can sometimes occur in certain areas. Be interesting to hear from John (Jim Lad) on this owing to his experience in the museum.
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- essex
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Planking help
augie replied to Marvi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
What you're seeing Marvi is what naturally occurs during the planking process. The space narrows toward the bow necessitating a narrowing of the planks (or fewer planks) in that area. This is handled by heeding the advice contained in the links Mark Taylor provided.....generally either spiling the planks or using drop planks. Conversely, the opposite will be encountered in the stern where there is more area to cover. The planking references will help you here as well by suggesting the addition of 'stealer' planks. You haven't made a 'school boy error' but rather a discovery. You were wise to ask the question. -
Nice to see you back in the fray. You've picked a handsome vessel for your first POB. And congrats on getting a flat bulkhead former !!! Brian's suggestion to reinforce the bulkheads is a good one --- providing that reinforcement doesn't interfere with anything down the road. Check your plans and instructions to see what happens later in the build. Some kits use wooden blocks between the bulkheads. You might check the other Pride logs to see what's been done. Before you reinforce anything, take the time to triple check that your bulkheads are all square to the former and also level when sighting down the deck. Fairing takes patience but establishes and important foundation for your planking. You can use one of the planks to check the 'run' of the planking along the bulkheads. It should be smooth and the taper you'll be sanding in allows for that smooth run without the plank being twisted into position. Check all up and down the hull as you go, working slowly. It takes some 'feel' and a good eye, but you'll get it. Looking GREAT so far!
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You're making really nice progress on her. But don't start counting ---- it'll drive you nuts when you get to the ratlines
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- Armed Virginia Sloop
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I believe Mark has covered it quite well. Thanks
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- confederacy
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Hopefully Adrieke's video straightens you out. Shrouds typically run in pairs...from a deadeye up to the mast top, around and then back down to the next deadeye. Sometimes, a single will run from a deadeye on one side of the ship to one on the other side.
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Nice idea on the mouse. Well done all around.
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Can't help you there, Nigel. I use the 'drill and fill' method and tint the filler to what I want using acrylic paint.
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- red dragon
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Very nice, indeed. I'm sure the finish coat will help highlight the details.
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There ya go, Sal. Funny, took me 3 shots. Looks super!
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- syren
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I'm wondering which way he's going to go in future. Perhaps a 1:48 HMS Victory detailed down to the treenails on the orlop deck......OR...... the Battle of Trafalgar ---- in a vial?
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