Altduck

Hi 

Just dropped by to see how you‘re doing -

and you’re doing great.

The deck looks really good with that finish (the blood doesn’t show. 😉  )

and your caulking method is just right to my eye - not too much but just enough.

Keep up the good work.

I like the one they call the Quasar, with the 6 LED's around the frame.  Micro Mark is one supplier:

https://www.micromark.com/Quasar-Lighting-System-for-Optivisor?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrLDhBwUahjs1Q803RRsoqXZJst80AnH3OquphONupWN3kehKJh_Bx0aAi1tEALw_wcB

It doesn't stick up and out in front like the single light above the center, and gives nice flat shadow free light.

Thank you for explaining and illustrating the differences between the resin and white metal.

Your photo of the 2 winch drums side by side is a vivid statement.

Kind of like looking at a prune, next to the plum it came from.

Jo,

Just stopped by to take a look, and you've really made a lot of progress.

And I agree, the planking looks very good.  

It's all coming together nicely and hey, you grow more blood every day so don't begrudge your ship a few drops now and then.

Keep up the good work,

Let me give you one more possibility.  Clockmakers supply houses used to carry "bushing wire" which is basically thick walled brass tubing in small sizes.  I don't see it anymore in US vendors' catalogs, but Meadows and Passmore in the UK has this:

http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/chap10/bushing-wire-x-2pcs-1.75mm-od-0.50mm-id-0558017515.htm

and this:

http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/chap10/bushing-wire-x-2pcs-2.50mm-od-0.65mm-id-0558025015.htm

They offer a range of sizes from 0.80 mm to 5.0 mm but unfortunately, no 2.00 mm OD but if you can fudge on your scale size a little, you get the rod pre-centerdrilled and just have to groove and part it off.

Good Luck,

How about if you chuck up a piece of the 2mm rod with the end centerpunched, in the Dremel, in the drill press, and then firmly chuck, clamp or whatever you have to work with, the bit for the center hole, taking care to get it vertical and lined up with the dimple in the end of the rod. 

Lower the spinning rod down onto the stationary bit, and drill a hole deep enough for a few sheaves.

File a groove, part off a sheave, and continue, deepening the hole as required, until you have enough to mess some up and still have enough to finish the job.

5 hours ago, Gregory said:

Cornwall Model Boats has a nice selection of brass sheaves.

 

I saw some 2mm ones, as well as these brass blocks, that may not be the look you want..

 

I have ordered stuff from Cornwall, and surprisingly, the shipping cost is not bad for small items..

 

 

How about buying a few of these brass blocks in a size you can use (they list 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6mm) "liberating" the sheaves and building your own blocks around them?  That would obviate turning them.

Just a thought,

Jo,

Just got back for another look at your build, and you've been making a lot of good progress.

Regarding the lower deck and your concern about the appearance - if any of it will be visible when the model is finished, how about adding some cargo to break up the bare expanse of that deck.

I'm thinking you could make some crates, sacks, barrels, etc and stow them down there, where the viewer could see them, before you close it all in.

And if none of it will be visible when the model is finished - chalk it up to experience and move on.  You're doing great.   

Well, if  you made a career in medicine, you can tell her "Yes, but they paid for themselves many time over"

Looks like you may have to take a similar wedge shape off the bottom of the front of 16 where your pencil match mark is, too.  When you get the part loose and lay it on the plan, should be clear how much to add and cut for best fit.

To be more clear, part 16 already covers the line that represents the curved stern, and the blue wedge will in effect lengthen the keel by the width of the fat end of the wedge.  A better fit may result from taking a bit off the keel and/or the vertical edge of 16.   

You’ll know when you lay them on top of each other as needed to line up with the drawing and analyze the overlapping edges of the 2 parts.

Hi, Jo

I'm just going thru your log, and first of all - congratulations - your ship is now officially under construction.

Sorry there are problems right out of the box, but you seem to be taking them in stride, and wiser folks than I are giving good advice.

I looked for Bindy's log to see if she had the same issues, and it seems to have vanished.  There is a photo album of a completed model, but apparently no actual build logs.

And the one referenced above on another site looks like maybe a later edition with laser cut pieces so may not have the same issues.

But the good news is that when you get yours done, it will be without question the very best Il Leudo build log on the forum!

Good Luck with it

Dwight,

Very nice build, and also very nice train layout.  

And it looks like you also collect vintage cameras, up on the shelf.

This kit is also on my list of models to build.

note this last entry on the World in Scale page:

Paul,

I seem to recall somebody a while back said a kit maker wouldn't reply to an email in English.  Don't remember who.

Anyhow, just for giggles, you might try "Google translating" your message into Spanish and see if that elicits a response. 

Bruce,

Congratulations on a truly fine build.  I've been following it and I'd love to build this when I have the skills some day.  I love the little details like the posters and the soot around the grates in photo #9, all the figures, and on and on.

Well Done!

Jo

I saw you posted on Bindi's build log which has been inactive for may months.

Try sending a PM (Private message) as her profile seems to still be open.

Click on her picture, and it should take you to her profile, and then look for the "message" box and send your note.

Maybe it'll find it's way to an inbox she monitors......

Good Luck with your build

I have both Safari and Chrome on my iPhone

Safari doesn't offer translate, at least not where I can find it.

Opened the Russian site in Chrome, and got a pop-up that offered to translate it - and it worked, too.

Thanks for posting these, with your notes and descriptions.

Our travel days are pretty much over, and we never got to Chile, or anywhere in South America except Peru for that matter, so I'm really enjoying them.

Could be BHR  

Could be BS

Bill, 

I believe end grain wood floors were also used in machine shops at one time.

11 hours ago, wefalck said:

In general, 'less is more', meaning that one would use the least amount of turns and knots possible. Any additional turns and knots makes it more difficult to cast loose a rope in an emergency. It is a sign of poor understanding of seamanship to add unnecessary amount of knots (as many landlubbers have a tendency to do)

Or to put it another way - those who can't tie knots tie lots.

Wander through any small boat marina and look at the dock lines on the dock cleats.  Some are a neat job and others are buried under a pile of figure eight wraps of line.

I don't know how well it cuts wood and plastic, but it looks like it does a fine job of cutting a hole in your wallet.

Wow!  Interesting reading. 

I think it can be summed up as follows:

- Don't use lead or lead alloys on your models.

- They will live longer, and so will you.

8 hours ago, Matrim said:

III - When looking at the instructions I also (re) noticed the - tighten the forward locking bolts of the fence 'first' - I cannot  guarentee I have always done this but will in future and this might also explain some of the blade sticking which is dangerous beyond anything else. I am curious as to why this makes a difference.

Nobody has spoken to this question, so although I don't have a Byrnes table saw, I'll give it a go.

Most table saw fences share the feature that they at least try to square themselves to the table when tightening the front clamping part of the fence against the front slide rail (looks like it's a round bar on the Byrnes?).  Of course, some saws do this better than others, but from the reviews of the Byrnes on this forum I'd guess it does a pretty fair job of it.  But you need to do this first, while the outfeed end can move freely.  If you tighten the outfeed end first, you will restrain it and introduce a bit of a bind when you then tighten the front.

Just my US$0.02 worth,

18 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

The sand it is an aluminum extrusion with ridges at each corner.  The sandpaper is attached to the recessed area between the raised edges with the raised edges contacting the guide surface.  The sandpaper never contacts the tool surfaces.

Kurt

Ah, Yes - I see that now.

Thanks, Kurt