glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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It took so long because you clearly took the time to do it right. Everything In chapters 1-2 are foundational to what follows, more completely so than with a typical kit, so well done! I’m still wondering how I missed there was a port upright jig. ‘Took so long’ will take on new meaning when you start planking, it becomes a way of life. 😁 -
Really nice work, it all looks great. If you reversed the channel configuration I’d say it was a good call, it looks great. Enjoy your trip, sounds like a big adventure is in store.
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Wow Frank, that's a great looking hull. Well done! You'll soon discover there is in fact life after planking:-D
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For many of the finer details on Winchelsea Chuck uses Boxwood. AYC is lovely wood bod will not hold detail on small things. My own experience trying to scrape moulding out of AYC on Cheerful confirmed that. Very lovely work!
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We have these questions about similar models come up from time to time, Chris is well versed in the topic. While appreciate what you’re trying to do for your friend, as Chris notes there is really no secondary market for models of this quality. Only the best quality models can fetch any price worthwhile and even then it’s a small market or built on commission. Try posting them on eBay, maybe that will generate a few dollars. I suggest making the topic description there more about donating to the charity than about the models. I feel for you and the loss of your friend. Thank you both for your service.
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I think the Syren cannons are 1:48, your model is 1:64. Check out Vanguard models, Chris has some great looking cannons at 1:64.
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Somehow I missed the start of this log, as usual your is doing a masterful and creative job of building another fine Vanguard model. And as usual I see tools I just know I need, even if I didn’t know that before like those small thumb clamps, that angle thing for the saw, and surely I need a Proxxon router table for something or another😊 Nice work and creative problem solving as always, I’m onboard for the ride now.
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Wonderful work Fred, definitely a result to be proud of. Very well done, fine craftsmanship in the details that separate Cheerful from other models. You’ve done a great job. While I’d like to see you back at Winchelsea and if you decide Speedwell is too much as a full scratch consider Vanguard models like Sphinx or Indy for fully rigged opportunities. I think Chuck’s intends to rig his Speedwell, but I imagine that’s a ways down the road. At any rate I look forward to following you next project.
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Once or twice I’ve left the tightening wrench’s on the Chuck. I’d advise against doing that.
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Excellent research. Did you look at the plans? They might show the pattern and provide for longer runs, or at least show the pattern visually.
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I didn’t know Vanguard had ¼ scale carriages, I thought his were all 1/64.
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The hull is handled a lot and also easiest to plank with the hull upside down. It’s done to preclude damage to anything on the deck. You can plank with an easier mind when there is nothing on top to worry about. Besides planking is fun. 😊
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I’m surprised you’re continuing with that single joint down the center, even painted that’s going to stand out. Even if you shifted each row by two bulkheads left and right of center making a shift pattern of three it would result in a better look. The tapering at at the bow looks great.
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Of course it has to have RED. I love that color on my models, accurate or not. I was wary of the printed paper friezes, now having used them on Winchelsea I think them amazing. So much better than painted brass PE. My vote is without the tassels, allowing the blue, also a great ship color, to stand out.
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It isn’t a ‘both ways’ situation. It’s two parts of one process. First the lining, then taper, then edge bending. Check my Cheerful and Winchelsea or a number of other Winchelsea logs including Chuck’s on how it all ties together. I believe the videos also explain this. We should move any further discussion off BE’s build log. This is his space.
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This is the best way to go, not the easiest or the fastest, but the best.
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That looks really amazing Rusty - so much detail, so many curves. You could start over and build a second one 😄
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With a good planer like the Ibex finger plane you just lightly start it were you want it then push forward. The plane will start shallow then cut to the blade depth. Sort of like starting a cheese slicer in the middle of the block of cheese. Hard to describe as it’s a feel thing, practice on some scrap and you’ll have in no time with your skills.
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As Druxey notes it’s best to apply the 7-10-7 ratio to first shave it to an approximate octagon then round it from there. It’s not nearly as hard as it sounds. This keeps everything in the proper proportion. Plenty of posts in this method. In describe some in my Cheerful log regarding the bowsprit. That was my first time too.
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The round part wouldn’t be bigger at the top of the mast. Using square stock and the 7-10-7 ratio to do the rounding is a common method used by many.
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Work the other direction, start with square stock and round it below. An Ibex finger plane is a great tool and another option
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The last step of my process for my Cheerful coils was basically to crush them with my fingers, a little squeeze, a little bend. They ended up looking pretty natural. Not sure how that would work with TiteBond, might be worth a try.
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You’ll be happy with that decision….once the pain goes away. 😁
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I almost literally planked 3 full sides of a hull on my Cheerful. You know the answer, rip it off and do it again. In the long run you’ll be proud of your decision to do so. Trying to force it to work is probably more difficult than pulling back to do it over. Just a heads up, it likely isn’t the last time you’ll want to do something again. I sometimes feel like the first time is just practice. It’s not a race. How’s that for the feedback you requested😊🙄
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Interesting, you started 9 months later than I did and have now past me by. You’ll be done in no time.
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