glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Thanks Bob! -
Thank you for your comments. I use the seizing method I’ve shown for at least 90%, of the rigging I do on any ship. It’s essentially a fishing lure knot, lots of YouTube videos on that I’m sure. I’ve done hundreds but I’d struggle to do one without the Quadhands (or the cheap third hand I had before). It’s easy once you get the hang of it. That a clove hitch for ratlines, a half hitch for a few other things and you have all you need.
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At the last show he attended
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You should make a replacement for Chuck’s lost mini-me with all that skill and hardware.
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With the practicum why not try building it and not giving up? There are plenty of AVS logs here to consult. What’s the worst that could happen, a less than perfect model, so what there are plenty of those around. Some logs are really bad work, but they are trying. Give it a shot, start a log, ask questions. I’ll follow
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Nice neat work, and everything does fit…almost. I’m sure enlarging rudder port done easily enough with your skills.
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- Sphinx
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I’ve used water based in the past, it works fine. It’s not as nice a finish as oil based and in some cases (I’m not sure what causes it) it can turn to a bit of a milky finish over time. In any case I’m a complete fan of the standard WOP, done right it leaves a great finish and really enhances the yellow cedar. There’s some guy who says it’s a “plasticity” finish, all I can guess is he’s doing it wrong, nothing plastic about it at all.
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- winchelsea
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I think the key is wipe-on-wipe-off Poly. Per what I’ve learned. From Chuck, I wipe it on and wipe it off as I’m doing it. Penetrates. The wood, leaves no shine and a matte finish.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I don’t think this is where they go: After a week of watching our grandkids while their parents were out of town and then finally getting back in the field for my photography with a week in the Smoky Mountains, both weeks great fun, I got back to Flirt. Each small item takes time to do right. Removing char, especially for items I’m leaving natural boxwood, takes time. There are some very tiny parts involved. Before I mount all the completed deck furniture I have to install the port guns. I’ve put it off as long as I can. After that I’ll complete the hull with the channels. Yay. Thanks for stopping by.
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That is a very well done square tuck - Nice work!
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- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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This was also my first model, and I also learned a great deal by following Hunt’s practicum. Someone may reply here about Hunt’s cantankerous ways, I’d ignore that as it has nothing to do with this practicum he wrote long ago. Back then all I knew was to use the kit wood, I don’t agree with any “furniture” comments regarding walnut strip, it’s not the best but it’s fine for this model, especially given the hull is painted white. Holly may not provide much contrast to that, it’s a white wood already, you must have a stash, it’s hard to find these days. Enjoy this fun build.
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The other approach to reduce sanding is the scrape the char with a #11 blade. A lot of it can be removed quickly leaving a lot less to sand. Of course holding these small parts in one hand with a blade in your other hand requires extreme caution and going very slow.
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The caution is having enough axel for the truck to remain attached, I think you may wind up with a bigger problem than a slightly square axel.
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Seems like twisting it off entirely is a good possibility. Can you define how you determine the size and more what you mean by brass collet?
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Not that big a deal to do touch up with tiny brushes. Frankly it’s a lot easier than assembling separate pieces without having glue being a bigger problem than touching up paint.
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Well done, thanks for sharing your technique for planning it out. What is a “boxwood color mix” to cover the char before painting?
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Just need a 20/0 or 18/0 Spotter brush and you’ll be fine. That gold looks pretty good!
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Nice to see another Speedy underway, the sister to the Flirt I'm working on now. You're off to a nice start. I too am a convert to plank bending, its so easy to do and makes such a big difference. I started with the hold-down on my bending station but determined I didn't need it and like being able to apply the iron to the whole area being bent. Either way it's such a superior method. I taper planks with the ruler and knife, the opposite of you I can't handle the planer consistently. I'd be interested to see how you hold the plank while you're planing it to fit.
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- Speedy
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I've seen that. The Winnie without that is more than enough challenge for me.
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Virginia Tech Hokie I'm guessing, though don't know about EE substituting for the ie
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I understand English isn't your first language, and it far exceeds the little German I know from my years living there. Rant implies and angry, attacking, or defensive tone, I'm sure not what you meant.
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I completely agree, nor do I. Odd wording to use for someone like you who takes the time to share and explain his techniques.
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