glbarlow

Really great result.  Nice work!

A truly great model in every respect. What an amazing result of your impeccable skills. 
 

Thanks for the mention and the comment I too have enjoyed our many conversations and hope they continue in our next builds, whenever we start those. 
 

Your photography has improved by leaps and bounds. These final images are really good and as much to be proud of as the model. 

Exquisite detail and methods as always. Not sure I’m ready for trying hypodermic needles and certainly would never have thought of that.
 

So, what’s next up?    

I enjoyed making those after I sorted out how, looks like you found the way that works for you. 

Nice work English Glenn

2-3 at the top are full width, install those. As John noted do the garboard. Then do a tick strip midships at widest point between this installed planks. Divide that length by the width of your planks. If it’s even divide in half, if odd the one more in the upper band. Then line the hull from there following the pdf. 
 

Remember, especially as this is your first you’ll want to adjust every 2-3 planks as nothing is perfect. The goal is to more or less have equal width planks at the bow and most important have the same number of (skinny) planks at the bow as you do midship. 

4 minutes ago, Freezing Parrot said:

to determine the right line it should take

He sort of does, it’s the art part. I went through the same process. Once you separate the bands, start on the top band and  at the middle, the lines go towards the aft and bow with the flow as you visualize it.  Basically it’s how and when you think it looks right. It takes some time and truthfully it’s harder to do on a small hull than it is on a larger one. It sort of comes to you.  I know it’s not a great answer. 

You should read chucks .pdf on lining the hull, he tells you everything you need to know. The 1/64th artist tape is a simpler way than glue and string, but same thing otherwise.

 That stem is a real pain, mine was such cheap wood I broke it like three times. Keep in mind the bowsprit has to lay along side if it. That’s another challenge with how this model was designed, Chris told me Amati would change his designs sometimes. 

My head hurts😂🤣

Good for you on the anchor buoys.  I made one up using Chucks methods but it just looked too heavy, too much of the eye drawn towards it hanging on the shrouds so I dropped them. The one was a serious pain to make so I’ll be interested to see your method. 
 

My cheat on the puddening was starting with a clove hitch, I never thought about inserting it into the stock, very clever.

Fascinating series of photos on rigging the tackle, thank you for providing this step by step. 

That looks great!

18 minutes ago, drjeckl said:

suggested black card stock

Actually black card is better for capstans, my impression Mike isn’t comfortable with that. Cheerful and my Nelson in fact use black card, I’m offering an alternative and one I use for masts and yards. 

I use black masking tape cut into 1 or 2 mm strips with an exacting knife I got from Amazon. I’m not sure about consistency using beads of glue. 

seems like you need some 18/0 and 10/0 paint brushes, easier than a toothpick. 

Well worth the effort and the learning in the long run. Well on your way to a very nice recovery. 

1 hour ago, Freezing Parrot said:

What method do you use to bevel the edge?

I use my Byrnes sander for the leading edge since I want them precise and tight fit. The top edges I use little hand made sanding blocks, I’ve shown them in my logs. The top doesn’t have to be that precise,it’s more to get the top inside edge off

I'd suggest trying heat bending the plank off the ship and dry fitting the plank to fit before gluing it on rather bending it as you glue it on.  Bevel the leading edge to about 30 degrees to fit the stem and bevel to the top edge slightly of each plank to tightly fit the one above it. You're correct no tapering for the ones over the gun port pattern but start tapering after those the rest of the way. Pause about half way down and plank up from the bottom for at least two maybe three rows.  That way any adjusting you have to do as you finish the side is don under the belly where it won't show.  

You're on a roll now 

I appreciate your doing that, it’s considerate.  Every photograph I take, as do most photographers, has the copyright and contact information embedded in the metadata. It’s easy to access with common software which every publishing agency would know.  As an aside I can remove a watermark in Photoshop without any trace in about 30 seconds. Of course I wouldn’t do that, but the art thieves often do just that.

Rolled white paper is a very common way to take product photos, whatever the subject. The challenge is lighting the paper separately (and much brighter) than the subject of the image. It’s simple but not easy and require the right gear. 

Shoot images in RAW, ADJUST web to taste In Lightroomor Photoshop. Very simple and easy. 

As a photographer it makes my skin crawl for people to expect to use my images for free, even worse when they say they’ll give me “photo credit” and that I should appreciate the publicity of their use of my image would provide. There is a Google search photographers can use to find mis-appropriation of my copyright. I found an English travel agency using my images to sell travel to Iceland. I sent them a bill, they replied with the photo credit thing and “offered” to remove the photo, which of course I told them to do.

Bottom line, content isn’t free. Just because people post images on Instagram or post on line news articles doesn’t mean it’s free.  My experience is photography, but the same is true for written content.  As someone noted expecting content to be free is why magazines are gone and newspapers not far behind. If your interested in something, word or image, you should be willing to pay the creator for the privilege of accessing it. 

That’s some great looking rigging, more nice work.Your so close to the finish line now.  Hen it’s “oh, that as the last thing, now what do I do…”. I spent 4 days cleaning out and reorganizing my ship room…

You should complain to the captain about the poor Viking deck, what are they thinking. 😂

1 hour ago, KirbysLunchBox said:

don’t have a scroll saw

While I used my Byrnes saw for the pillars I didn’t have a scroll saw at the time.  A jewelers saw works fine for the legs, about $17 on Amazon.  It’ll be fun. 

I had to rely on my past experience to sort out the stern, in the end I mostly winged it to make it work, so your experience, and that of our parrot friend, isn’t unusual. 
 

Give some thought to scratch building the bits. It isn’t hard and it’s good experience. While cutting them may have worked not it seems they have no legs to brace the bowsprit in a high wind.🙂

I think you’ regret the gaps later. Don’t be reluctant to pull planking off and do it again.  I ripped portions of the port planking twice and the starboard planking three times. it didn’t bother me to do that and I had the wood to do it over…and over.

Here is a mindset I had to develop after so many years of kit building: With Cheerful we aren’t limited to any single width of plank. There are multiple widths included on the wood list, we can cut a slightly wider or more narrow plank to make it work. 5/32, 7/32, 3/16, it just takes patience and trial runs, maybe a little ripping off to get it to work. Once you have it sanded and WOP’d it will look great and you’ll never know where you made the adjustments. 
 

There are certain places you have to be exact, that 1/16th strip and the wales placement are two of them.  From there compute the distance and cut planks to fit. 
 

You have a well faired hull, the planking will come out fine. If I can offer one piece of advice,  don’t settle or accept work you know isn’t right. You’ll sort it out and all will be great at the end. You might recall in my log I noted I felt like I’d planked two Cheerful’s but had only one to show for it 🤣