DelF

Great log James - I'm definitely going for this kit when Chris releases it.

On 9/9/2020 at 11:42 AM, James H said:

Johnsons Klear

Is this product marketed under a different name in the UK now - a google search suggests it's no longer available?

Thanks

Derek

I'm a complete novice at airbrushing unlike the other much more experienced people who've offered advice.

However I've recently bought this modest setup and so far I'm very happy with it. It's a gravity fed double action brush (as most people recommend). The compressor is quiet (to my ear) and doesn't have a tank. All the advice I read before purchase suggested that tanks are unnecessary at the pressures we are likely to work at - the compressor just cuts in as required to maintain the pressure you set and the flow to the brush remains steady. It's small and fits neatly under the workbench. I was advised against using throwaway canisters of compressed air, although I didn't realise you could use large tanks of CO2 like Bob - I'd have dug out my old dive gear if I'd known!

The advice I do follow is to clean the brush thoroughly after each use - there are some good videos on YouTube. It takes a bit of time but it's essential. That just means I have to get better organised to minimise the number of spraying sessions. So for example I waited until I'd completed all the spars on my current Speedy build before spraying them. 

Bottom line, airbrushing is a technique I wish I'd picked up years ago - should be especially useful for you if you're into plastic modelling.

Derek 

Thanks Edward. Just before I go I wanted to mention I stiffened the rings with fly tying cement in the hope they'd retain their shape. I've edited the log.

Derek

Rigging the Spars

We should have been returning from Canada and Alaska about now, but that's had to be postponed 'til next year. Instead we're off to the beautiful North Yorkshire coast near Whitby, of Captain Cook and Dracula fame for a few days R & R. I'll sign off with a few notes about rigging the spars. There's a long way to go, but a lot of it is repetitive so I'll just highlight a couple of general points.

First off, the quality of the blocks is superb - better than any other commercial blocks I've come across. I've made a lot of my own boxwood blocks in the past but I can't match these:

If I was being slightly picky I would point out the limited number of sizes - for example the only single blocks are 3mm and 5mm (I bought 2mm blocks separately to rig the guns). A scratch builder might want to make a wider range to better reflect full size practice. At this scale I honestly don't think it'll stand out as a problem so I'm happy to go with the kit blocks.

As for the rigging line, the quality is reasonable if slightly furry. Running it through my fingers dipped in a 50:50 mix of PVA and water sorted that.  The kit supplies a good range of sizes in black and natural, the latter being a pleasing shade of off-white (ecru?). Certainly not the bright white that can spoil the look of an otherwise well-rigged model - to my eye, at least.

One odd point is that the plans often indicate that strops and other elements of standing rigging are to be made from natural thread. I can only assume a transcription error, as the photos in the manual clearly show black line being used where it should be.

On my previous build, Royal Caroline, I tried to follow full-size rigging practice as far as possible, for example serving strops where called for, and splicing eyes into the ends of strops so I could seize them round yards. I enjoyed it, but much of the work was virtually invisible, even at 1:48 scale. I will certainly carry some of that work forward into Speedy - for instance serving shrouds and stays where appropriate - but for less visible rigging elements I decided quick and easy was the way to go. 

So, to rig a block to a yard I just tied a short length of line round the block with a dab of ca to hold it in place. I then tied the line round the yard, making sure the simple half-knot was positioned where it would be least visible. Another blob of ca and trimming with a sharp scalpel blade and job done.

Where a ring is called for I first tied the line round a drill bit, in this case 1mm. With the drill bit still in place I tied the line round the block and proceeded as before:

On reflection, the ring is probably a tad too large - I might redo with a 0.8mm drill bit. (Edit: I've stiffened the rings with some fly-tying cement in the hope they'll retain their shape).

On rigging items that require seizing, like this brace pendant, I'm using the 18/0 fly fishing thread I've described before:

Right, off for that R & R!

Derek

Hi John

Thanks for taking the time to share this information, and for your kind comment about my builds.

I should have mentioned this in my log (so thanks for prompting me!) but I have stopped using the method I described earlier. The problem was precisely the speed of action of the blackening solution that you highlight. Because I was brushing the solution onto the PE components rather than dipping them all in one go, it took quite some time to cover them all both sides and edges.  The 'minute or so' I described was mostly the time it took to apply the Brass Black. By that time, many of the components would have extra deposits of black that would rub off. Rubbing the excess off with a cloth and repeating the process worked, but in the end I figured it would be at least as quick to separate the components from the sheet and dip them all together in smaller batches. 

Thanks again

Derek

Looking great Glenn. Love the framed print as well. 

45 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

thingy covers a lot of ground.

...but don't forget, some thingies are whotsits, and others are oojimaflips. And don't get me on to doodahs! (If you've not already guessed, I'm on my third largish glass of red).

Derek

On 8/29/2020 at 6:04 PM, drumgerry said:

Is it just a question of measuring the distance between bulkheads and marking out the points on the planks?

If I've understood your question correctly, the answer's yes. Have you seen Chuck Passaro's planking videos? They're under <more> <planking techniques> on the menu bar.

Anyway, you're doing a really great job - your first planking looks as good as second planking so far!

Derek

...and I promise that’s the last time I’ll mention it. Honest 🤐😇!

The last word on euphroes (hopefully!).

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, euphroe comes from the Dutch juffrouw, meaning deadeye, which in turn comes from jong +  vrouw = young woman, as Sjors said. According to the OED, earlier Dutch forms of the term young woman  included yuffrouw, which sounds even closer to euphroe.

Now I need a drink!

15 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I’m trying to think what it means that you have or even know about a book with this title🤣😂

It's a great book! One of several fine nautical dictionaries, including the one Edward kindly included in the previous post (none mention "sanding the rabbit's bottom" though 🐇😀) **

**other readers will need to visit Glenn's Lady Nelson  log for this reference.

15 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Personally I like fine brush strokes made form good paint with quality brushes.

Horses for courses...

Thanks Vane, much appreciated.

14 hours ago, Sjors said:

In Dutch we call it “jonge vrouw” young woman

I looked up 'euphroe' in Sailor's Word Book - A Dictionary of Nautical Terms by Admiral Smyth, published in 1867. The principal spelling is given as 'uvrou', which certainly sounds like a corruption of the Dutch (at least to an Englishman's ears!). I love the way an interest in model shipbuilding leads into so many other fascinating areas of maritime and social history. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

Derek

Great to see another Vanguard model being built. The more logs the merrier.

27 minutes ago, dkuehn said:

So my posting of this log is for purely selfish reasons. 😀

Nothing wrong with that. If I didn't keep a log I'd probably forget techniques from one model to the next. If others get something from the log that's great, but it's at least as much for my benefit.

Good luck

Derek

Thanks Sjors, and thanks for putting me right on the translation. I must have mis-remembered the story, because I'm sure the original anglicization would have been from the Dutch, as British sailors would probably have been more likely to hear Dutch sailors speaking than German ones. 

I'm enjoying using the airbrush, partly because it's a new toy, but also because it seems quicker and easier - especially with awkward shapes - and it gives a good, even finish with no brush marks. However I still like using brushes for some tasks.

Derek

42 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I'd just be embarrassingly repeating the phrase, "as I learned from Derek..." and showing photos that didn't match James'

You're too modest. Besides, half the fun of this forum is seeing the different ways people approach the same models and the different techniques they use. Truism alert ⚠️ - there is no one right way, or even one best way. Or if there is, I've certainly not found it !

Now you'll make me blush😬! Seriously though, I'm trying to show different uses for the micro mill as I know you and other members are interested in exploring its potential.  Glad you find it useful.

11 hours ago, glbarlow said:

what airbrush did you get

Hopefully this link will still work...

I'm very happy with the airbrush I got so far, especially as it seems to work fine with my existing acrylic paints. I thought I'd have to buy airbrush-specific products, but flow improver works well with Admiralty paints (and others, for all I know). I've also tried airbrush thinners with ordinary acrylics and that works too. 

Derek

Fore & Main Tops

Thanks as always for the kind comments and the 'likes' 🙂

A bit more information on the masts. I had to play about with the contrast on this picture to reveal any detail, so the black looks grey!

Chris's research showed that crowsfeet had been removed by the time Cockrane took command of Speedy. However I think crowsfeet and their euphroe blocks add interest to a model, and are visually attractive, so I've decided to fit them. The underside of the tops come with holes in place, which act as a template to help you drill holes right through if you want to rig crowsfeet but where they won't show if you decide not to. Incidentally I read somewhere that euphroe is an anglicization of the Dutch jung frau, but I'm not sure how short-sighted and/or desperate sailors would have to have been to think a euphroe block resembled a young woman!

Chris was not sure whether Speedy's mast heads would have been fitted with iron bands and battens so he did not include them. They're a detail I like to fit if I can, although they can be hard to see (and photograph!) in the finished model. The bands were easy - just shrink-wrap tubing cut to size and shrunk on. The battens are trickier, as they have to be notched so they fit snuggly over the bands. On my last fully rigged model - Royal Caroline - I tried several types of wood but ended up using styrene strips. I tried styrene again for Speedy but with less success - even using the smallest strips I have - 1.0mm X 0.5mm - the results looked too clunky to my eye. However I'll briefly mention the method I used as it may be helpful for others** to use on larger scale models or on fittings such as window glazing bars.

I milled notches in the stryrene strips with the Proxxon micro-mill:

The jig is just a piece of good-quality MDF bolted to the table, with double-sided tape to hold the strips in place. Here, I'm using a 1mm cutter to mill a 0.25mm groove in 8 strips at once. 

The results looked OK...

...but I felt they looked too clunky when fitted to the masthead.

In the end I decided to keep the bands and leave the battens off. Probably unrealistic as I believe the battens were fitted to stop the rigging rubbing against the metal bands, but I can live with that. 

Another little detail is the quarter-round bolsters either side of the masthead:

The manual suggests filing these components from square stock. I found it quicker and easier to cut a round dowel in half lengthways, twice, on the table saw. That method made enough quarter round section for both masts in seconds.

The final detail in the tops are the fids. These are supposed to be square or rectangular, but at this scale I can only do round holes. So I cheated by making each fid in two parts, each part a piece of 1mm square boxwood with one end rounded. With the boxwood held in the lathe (just as easy in a drill) I pressed the end against the 1mm hole in a metal drill gauge to round off the first couple of mils.   

A tiny detail, but worth it I think.

Back to rigging the spars.

Derek

** Glenn, this is aimed at you, so I hope you were only joking 😄

On 8/23/2020 at 7:30 PM, glbarlow said:

I've quit bookmarking your log

Thanks Bob! On PE, I think there are some components where it wins hands down against alternatives. One example on Speedy is the fine detail on the pumps. Another, perhaps unexpectedly, is belaying pins. Wooden ones never look right (not when first bought, anyway) whereas the PE ones on Speedy are perfectly to scale. They’re so small you can’t see that they’re flat, not round, especially when painted. 
 

On other components opinion is divided. For example I chose to make my own ring bolts for Speedy’s cannon as I felt the PE rings were slightly too large. But I was arguably being picky and I’m sure many people would be happy with the PE versions. 
 

Interestingly, I am happy with the PE cleats supplied with my kit, but I hear that Chris is now providing laser cut pear versions. 

A final point worth making is that all the PE in the kit is very good quality.

Derek

21 hours ago, DelF said:

suspect there must be at least 75 blocks and deadeyes required on the masts, yards and bowsprit

Serious underestimate! I've just had a quick look through the plans and lost count at 130. And that’s just blocks and deadeyes that I need to attach to the spars and tops off the model. 

Thanks Tim! I’d advise you not to resist the temptation to get an airbrush. It’s a whole new technique to master but it’s worth it, and you don’t have to spend a fortune on top of the range kit. I went closer to the cheap end of the range and am very happy with it. I’m especially pleased that I can use my existing acrylic paints - mostly Admiralty. 
 

Derek

2 hours ago, chris watton said:

the NMM do have the plans, albeit just the one sheet. 

I assume this is the one : https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/460861.html ?

Masts

Tried out my new airbrush on the spars, and was pleased with the results:

I used Admiralty matt black, with just 2 drops of flow improver per 10 drops of paint and it went on like a dream. Spraying with this sort of kit is much more precise and much less messy than I'd imagined. I needed very little masking to protect the unpainted areas, and because the paint mists on so fine, there was no build up of liquid paint on the masking tape and so no chance of leakage under the tape. 

At times the Quadhands (Quinhands?) looked like some kind of wierd sculpture:

I couldn't resist dry-stepping the masts and yards just to see what she looks like:

Although I was a bit wary about some of the photoetch components they look absolutely fine when fitted and painted. Here's the yard arm of the fore yard, for example:

Now I'll have to de-mast her and start rigging everything. I've not counted, but I suspect there must be at least 75 blocks and deadeyes required on the masts, yards and bowsprit. I enjoy rigging and find the repetitive nature quite therapeutic (well, perhaps not ratlines!), and am looking forward to it. Still putting off the ship's boat!

Derek

I think your effort looks fine Tim - I'd just snip off the end of the breech rope a bit closer to the second seizing. You could always use brown fly tying line if you agree with B.E.'s dislike of black.

Derek

Gerry, the only thing I’d add to SpyGlass’s sound advice is that the stern needs to end up thin enough to match the thickness of the sternpost. So there is no point covering the keel with first planking only to have to sand it off again. If you look at our Speedy logs and the manual (I assume Flirt’s is the same) you’ll see that the first planking has been sanded down to nothing as it approaches the stern, and even part of the keel has been thinned. This ensures you don’t have to sand the second planking too aggressively. You need to aim for a good smooth flow into the sternpost, not a step. 
 

Hope this helps. 
 

Derek