Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. A fish davit was, as the name implies, used specifically for anchor operations. It was replaced by a short davit in around 1800. For raising ships' boats or other heavier items, tackles on the mainstay and yardarms was used. You could not swing items inboard simply using a fish davit. A fish davit is rigged in the accompanying photo as are tackle from the mainstay and yardarms to the boat in the waist. .
  2. Certainly one of the more tricky parts of construction. Looking good, but make sure you protect those protruding timbers. It's far too easy to catch and snap them off. Don't ask!
  3. Interesting photo of Lowestoft. However, think of the weight of that spar, then having to heave it outboard even more before you can slip the end back through the spanshackle. It would probably tip overboard, the laws of physics being what they are. An illustration in Falconer shows a little less than half the length of the davit outboard, The model photo may be suspect, as so many models were re-rigged or 'restored' over the years. I'm having particular difficulty with a research project, where very old repairs are almost impossible to distinguish from original work.
  4. I believe that the spanshackle on the opposite side of the forecastle was used to secure the inboard end of the fish davit. As you haae it, the leverage would place severe strain on the spanshackle bolt, even though it extends down through two beams below.
  5. There are some very strange English terms, Siggi! You would probably laugh at my German language skills.
  6. Almost right! It's called a 'shankpainter chain'. It is taken around the shank of the anchor when it is stowed.
  7. If you have not yet read Kurt Van Dahm's article on shop safety in the current Nautical Research Journal (pp.375-381), please take the time to do so. It may save you a lot of grief.
  8. Terrific work. I love the panelling detail inside the wheelhouse. How much will one be able to see once the model is complete?
  9. For small boats 12" to 18" seems to be the range.
  10. There are several ways of making grommets. One way is cutting thin slices of brass tubing (heat-soften it first!) Place the ring on a hardened surface and flare one side using a center punch, if the ring is small enough. Push the ring through a hole in the sail and flare the other side to lock it in place.
  11. Fabulous grunging work! But now don't the brick walls look a little too clean? Or are they yet to be dirtied? Your diorama is a pleasure to look at.
  12. In 18th century terms, a cringle is a rope loop at the corners of and along the edges of sails, either as part of the bolt rope or secured to it. Are you thinking, perhaps, of a grommet? That is a ring of metal fixed within the edge of a sail.
  13. Making paper or thin card patterns for any complex piece saves a lot of wood (and bad language!). Your counter planking looks good.
  14. Good progress, but had you considered using SilkSpan instead of woven material, however fine? It's much more amenable to furling.
  15. I might suggest an expanded definition for a ruler: RULER: A blameable device for measuring twice, cutting once, then finding the piece too short .
  16. Good question. Real wooden masts and spars are first cut to a square cross-section, then octagonal, then sixteen sided before being rounded off. Some sections are left square so that other things (such as mast caps) attached to them can't skew around.
  17. Harvey: The Rope is a group of extremely talented Japanese ship modelers. See: https://blog.agesofsail.com/2018/03/07/fantastic-work-of-japanese-ship-modelers-the-rope-tokyo/ and: https://theropetokyo-en.jimdofree.com/about-1/jsmcc/
  18. Certainly a thorny problem, Claire. Are there any members of The Rope that you could ask technical questions of?
×
×
  • Create New...