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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The lining out of the planking has now been refined. Even the thickness of a thin pencil line makes a difference at 1:48! Pencil erases well over gesso. There was much erasure. I use 4H leads in order to get the thinnest lines possible. The beauty - or lack of it - in the final model will depend on precise marking out. The next step in the process will be to mark out the frames on the plug.
  2. druxey
    The gesso is acrylic, not the traditional one. It sands very well, Eberhard. I will still wax the plug before building over it.
  3. druxey
    Thank you, Joe. Next was to refine the planking layout. At this scale the width of a pencil line makes a difference! As you can see, it's almost these now. Lining out is a science and an art. If one only scientifically divides the space for the planking, it does not always look fair to the eye. I had to then use a bit of art - and maybe a touch of alchemy - to make the lines run fair to the eye from stem to stern. There will still be some minor adjustments before transferring the mark-out to the second side.
  4. druxey
    And have other unintended consequences!
  5. druxey
    I agree that a book can suck countless hours into space. One does it for love, not money! (Unless you write fiction on the level of an A. J. Rowling.)
  6. druxey
    Thanks for dropping in and having an interest in this project! The next step was to fit the backbone and plug so the slots at bow and stern were widened to accommodate them. The run of the planking was next sketched on. Looking at the photos from Venice, it appears that there are ten strakes below the sheer rail. As you can see, the run aft looks quite good already, but the fore body needs correction. The planking will be delineated far more accurately as corrections are made. This comes next. The deliberate gap at the forefoot is that the hull form is so fine here that, if the plug were in the way, the planks will not run smoothly into the stem rabbet.
  7. druxey
    If you are trying to sand a straight edge, instead of rubbing sandpaper against the wood, rub the wood against the sandpaper. However, first rubber cement the sandpaper to a level flat surface; then you will get a perfectly straight edge.
  8. druxey
    Resaw into thinner slabs and sticker them as soon as possible. That will minimize splitting. Leave wood in log form, it will always split radially.
  9. druxey
    Next was to complete the spine of the cutter. Cutting the rabbet along the top of the keel was easiest for most of its length by attaching the keel (rubber cement again!) to a board and using a shaped scraper as shown. The stem and stern posts were scarphed on, the joints being accentuated with a little pencil. The aft scarph was unusually short, as shown on the surveyed plans.
  10. druxey
    Neatly done, Maury!
  11. druxey
    So, after many layers of gesso and sanding a good surface was achieved on the plug. While gesso coats were drying, I began construction of the backbone of the cutter. The stem and stern posts were cut out of wood a scale 2" and 3" respectively. The stern post was tapered to 2" at the heel. The rabbets were marked out carefully and cut. The drawings of this cutter showed both inner and outer rabbet lines. This established the changing bevels. The outer line was cut with a new scalpel blade and the bevel cut using a miniature chisel. Thinking ahead, the holes for the ringbolts were drilled using a #72 bit held in a pin chuck. Next will be the keel.
  12. druxey
    Over the planking for sure, Mark. The batten idea will certainly help align the pieces nice and smoothly. I found that my best molding strategy was to start with blanks that did not account for bevel on the back. The lengths were rubber cemented on a wood backing board. The molding scraper was then run along repeatedly and lightly until it bottomed out on the backing. That ensured a consistent depth of cut. After removing the molding from the board and cleaned of rubber cement, the bevel was put in. This was done with a very sharp chisel to establish the angle, then rubbed on a sanding board to refine the bevel.
  13. druxey
    Hope this is a quick fix for you, Mark.
  14. druxey
    Welcome! And I'll add; read and understand the instructions first!
  15. druxey
    Smart move to begin with something simple. As you'll find out, even that has challenges!
  16. druxey
    The gesso provides a white surface which you can use pencil on. The lines show up clearly and you can easily erase if you need to. Stay tuned to see this.
  17. druxey
    Very nice and neatly done, Clare. The sail material looks very convincing.
  18. druxey
    Thanks, but not yet, Chuck! It's gesso and sand and repeat time now.
  19. druxey
    Amazing, Eberhard! Would a very small broach clear any clogged holes?
  20. druxey
    Just about completed the smoothing of the plug. It is worth taking time to refine this even though it isn't part of the model itself. A little filler was required in spots in order to create a smooth fair surface. Next will be several coats of gesso and sanding. The planking runs can then be marked out.
  21. druxey
    The sheer was sawn out and smoothed using shaped sanding sticks. The half-hulls were then joined with a central 'spine' to allow for the keel/stem/stern post assembly. The projection allows me to clamp the plug in my vise. Shaping then began using a sharp chisel and gouges.
  22. druxey
    Coming in late to this party, that is a lovely job that you are doing on this, Håkan. Visually the colors work very well.
  23. druxey
    The lifts for the plug have been cut out and glued up. Next, the profile of the boat was marked out on the inner surfaces of the halves. I remembered to keep the off-cuts of the lifts to temporarily glue on again in order to scroll-saw the profiles!
  24. druxey
    Lovely clean work. Usually the first head beam is in one piece and scored on to the front of the stem head. I've not seen this arrangement before.
  25. druxey
    Strain? It thought it was Strine!

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