druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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It's the horizon lines that show the tilt of the prints are different ones of the same photo. All right, gentlemen, my two cents' worth is added!
- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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Perhaps you should re-christen the model "Bad Luck Boney", Dan. The years have not been kind to her.
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- Bone model
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Sloping deck
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Meanings and usage of words change over time. I do not know when 'camber' was adopted to replace 'round up' but suspect it was in the mid-nineteenth century. However, camber was the descriptive word used to describe the deck construction seen in the draught above. Steel, Naval Architecture page 14,1805: CAMBER. Hollow or arching upwards. the decks are said to be cambered when their height increase toward the middle, from stem and stern, in the direction of the ship's length. -
I'm surprised that you can't source a Proxxon in Canada. Try: www.chippingaway.com or www.Nutmegwoodworking.ca
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Sloping deck
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
No, although it does help drain. The deck is sloped down (this is actually describing 'camber' as the word was used then) to the hawse holes. This allowed the cable to come up on the weather deck. If a deck lower, the hawse holes would be too close to the waterline. On this plan the hawse holes and scupper are not shown. To clarify; 'camber' is the rounding down of a deck as seen longitudinally and 'round up' is the correct term for the transverse (athwartships) curve of the deck and beams. -
Do you ever use miniature broaches to clear small holes? I find them very helpful. The new crowsfoot looks good.
- 95 replies
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Looks pretty nice to me. What kind of wood are you using? If you run the grain diagonally it will be less likely to break.
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Welcome back and enjoy your health now!
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'Quarter galleries' in English. They are always a challenge with the compound angles involved.
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Mis-spelling: Should be http://littlemachineshop.com
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Well beaten, Michael! That was not an easy shape to raise. Copper looks much nicer than plastic, don't you think?
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Thanks for the blackening test, James!
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Thanks for checking, James!
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Is the brass lacquer coated or 'raw', James?
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Aaargh! The joys and frustrations.... I'm glad that you were able to locate the euphroe. What will you use for the crowsfeet line? Fly fishing 6-0 ?
- 95 replies
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Well, darn! Just like the real thing! How long did it take for you to find that particular branch?
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You will only enjoy working bone if your sense of smell is impaired, Bob. Even using hand tools, the odor is apparent.
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I'm still impressed by both your ambition and level of achievement while you were still a teenager, Steven.
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- Tudor
- restoration
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What, no repousée sink made in your silversmith's friend's shop, Michael? Mine would be very displeased. Which reminds me, you never did get back to me about a Bramah lock for the model. Looking lovely as usual, joking aside.
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Welcome back, Prodigal Son! There is a wealth of knowledge on this site upon which to draw when you need it. No fatted calf, though, I'm afraid.
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Wow! Some amazing miniature machining again. I think you mean 'cleats' rathe then 'clamps'?
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You must have been living right, Dan! That was a lucky break.
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I'm sure that there were variations on the way stun's'ls were rigged.
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Another make to consider is Boley. Again, it should be complete not missing a tailstock or other part. Avoid any with signs of rust! I've found that a lathe with a collet-holding tailstock (such as the Levin) is much more useful than one that only will take a dead center. A good cross-slide will cost as much or more than the basic lathe. Beware of ones on the second-hand market that lack the shoe under to square it with the lathe bed. Also, a set of collets is quite an investment.
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