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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Good luck finding a new home. We'll await your return! Nice modification to those figures. It's hard to realize how small they really are.
  2. Yes, there is a slight concavity in the newest strake, Eberhard, but nothing extreme.
  3. So, another day, another strake on each side. Today it's strake 4. The junction at stern post and transom needed care. (I think Eberhard was wondering about this.) The plank runs were arranged so that the seam between two strakes would run into this junction. Another 'have to think well ahead' strategy. I also cut away the plug for safety here. (Photo order reversed!) Yes, Maury, I wash the planks well with a wet brush and mop up excess glue before it dries. In places such as the keel/garboard junction, I also use a dental tool (elevator) shaped like a mini chisel to clean out the angle. Thanks for stopping by.
  4. It's his mast-erpiece, Steven! Actually, it looks like a clip of some kind.
  5. Exactly, Maury. There is very little gluing surface. Hence the occasional frame.
  6. But that method means that the block cannot slip out of the line - the line would have to break first.
  7. Thanks for looking in, everyone. Progress will be slow. Fitting planks that average about ⅛" wide is exacting work. You can see strake three going in in this picture.
  8. Thank you, Craig. However, we are referencing pre-1800 building practice.
  9. Beautifully done, Daniel! First class work.
  10. Note to Alan as well: on smaller vessels where contemporary framing plans exist, I've seen nearly all with chocked toptimbers, but there is the occasional scarph indcated.
  11. Questions, questions! Alan: I almost never, ever use CA. PVA is what I'm using on this model. Eberhard: I've never really got into 3D modeling since a frustrating brush with AutoCad early in the '00's. Greg: If it were a clinker hull, it could come off any any point for inspection. I'd rather not chance it with the small gluing areas involved on a carvel hull.
  12. The garboard completed both sides and pins removed, the second strake was next. In the first photo you can see two of the various hold-down strategies used. To spile planking at this scale is difficult to do the traditional way using a set of compasses. I now use Scotch brand matte removable tape. I lay a strip over the model and dot every ¼" or so. The tape is stripped off and laid on the stock (photo). The side to be joined to the existing strake is cut first and as accurately as possible. I use a sharp scalpel and ship's curve for this. The other side is cut a little wide of the marks. The plank is then fitted and fettled if necessary before refining the free edge. It is then shaped and glued into place. Once a strake is completed I sight along it to see if there is any waviness and file the edge smooth before continuing with the next strake. Now on to the second strake, port side. The process outlined above will continue until planking is completed.
  13. Bob: I don't have an answer to that other than I've never wished to test many hours of work to destruction! I agree that a three-piece plug would solve the issue, but at this size the extra work involved is simply not worth it. The last strake will be added after removal from the plug. This, however, is some time off yet!
  14. I love my Castroviejo corneal scissors (5)! The vintage/antique watchmakers' hand vice (2) is also a really useful tool. Haven't had as much luck with the sliding ring version; it always slips when I don't want it to! Its advantage is that it has small jaws.
  15. Generally a 3:1 ratio is about right. The chock maximum depth is ⅔ of the molded thickness of the frame and each arm of the chock is 3 times the maximum depth. The same ratios apply to most scarph joints as well.
  16. Keith: You remind me of an anecdote about Oscar Wilde. He was holding forth at some gathering making his usual brilliant remarks, after one of which someone said, "Oh, I wish I'd thought of that!" To which Oscar replied, "You will, my dear boy, you will!"
  17. Another good reason to visit the AGO once it re-opens! Of course, readers here will head down to the ship model collection first!
  18. I agree that a strap or plate for the backstay would be appropriate, Mark.
  19. I've not seen pentagonal section broaches here, just the four-sided variety,
  20. The two lines of the poem on the banner in the original Cutty Sark stern design read: (And roars out,) "Weel done, Cutty-sark!" And in an instant all was dark.
  21. So, what is your conclusion, Mark? Thanks for the clarification about the altered port positions; I'd suspected that that was the case.
  22. Broaches are tapered square-sectioned steel tools that ream out a hole to fractionally enlarge it. One turns them by hand.
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