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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The issue with a bulb close to the surface means that light rays are spreading rather than parallel. The more off-axis parts of the image are, the more any distortion. Surely you see the sun occasionally in Montana? Reminds me of the Noel Coward song, "Mad dogs and modellers go out in the mid-day sun." Sorry, Noel!
  2. druxey
    I thought one could expose the photoresist with sunlight. I don't think one gets much UV from an incandescent bulb!
  3. druxey
    Those will complement the model beautifully.
  4. druxey
    Just use a smear of epoxy and a bit of Magic tape to secure it. The tape lets you see that the part hasn't shifted before the epoxy sets!
  5. druxey
    1) No, they were simple poles reused for many launchings. 2) Look at contemporary paintings or models of launchings/with launch flags. You can estimate sizes from these. 3) I believe that plugs with suitable sized holes for the staffs were used. The bow staff was mounted through an eyebolt in the back of the hair bracket. See the following examples, for instance: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/15235.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/12537.html
  6. druxey
    No need to sweat the cyphers on to the masters, Greg: epoxy would do, as mold making does not normally involve heat using room temperature vulcanizing materials.
  7. druxey
    Quite the reconstruction effort, Steven! I hadn't realized that the model was quite so small.
  8. druxey
    A great 'save! Look after those skilled hands now.
  9. druxey
    Superb joinery, as usual!
  10. druxey
    Oh, my! Another masterpiece in the making.
  11. druxey
    Simple is good, Allan. I think the trick is to strop/hone frequently to avoid resharpening too often. If one does need to sharpen, a guide block is a good idea. One still needs a delicate touch when tuning up miniature gouges.
  12. druxey
    So far, so very good!
  13. druxey
    She's getting to be very impressive!
  14. druxey
    I can echo the other responses above! A really useful pin chuck is the old Eclipse 160, which comes with three collets. I have two, one dedicated for the mill, the other as a hand-held chuck. ebay is one source for these useful items.
  15. druxey
    I agree that, on a model, black is too stark. Your model is looking very nice, Mark.
  16. druxey
    Accident? What accident? I hope this is not serious, Doris. Be well soon.
  17. druxey
    The TFFM books refer to The Fully Framed Model. They are a four volume set on the construction of a typical British mid-eighteenth century sixth rate ship-rigged sloop. The book are part of the extensive offerings by SeaWatchBooks. They have a link on the first page of this site, down the right hand side. Click for details.
  18. druxey
    Fabulous! It's almost time to move in....
  19. druxey
    Basswood for pattern making? Looks like it works very nicely.
  20. druxey
    I've found that those rejects can always be turned down...and down...and...behold! A belaying pin. Good looking cannon, though.
  21. druxey
    Welcome, Philip!
  22. druxey
    So, you are discovering the joys of making your own instead of buying commercial! Nicely done, Vaddoc.
  23. druxey
    Nice theory, Jeff. However, earth colors like ochre are UV stable. (In paint technological terms, 'non-fugitive'.) Also, each layer of paint would be protected from UV light and atmosphere by subsequent coats of paint, so are preserved. I doubt if the conservators of the ship are in error. We just have to get used to the fact that the ship no longer fits our perception of her.
  24. druxey
    I think lower melting point pewter is a tin/antimony/bismuth mix, but not copper.
  25. druxey
    Pewter will tarnish with time, and there will likely be dross to skim off the melted metal before you pour it. Do you know the composition of your pewter? Hopefully it is the lead-free variety, Another tip: dust the inside of your mold with talc before pouring,

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