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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Redshirt: Plan sheet 1 contains profile, deck plan, sheer plan, building board plan, cross-section and various timber patterns. Plan sheet 2 contains all spar plans, standing and running rigging plans and belaying plan. Plan sheet 3 contains complete lofted frame drawings, transoms, hawse pieces and elevations of bow and stern cant framing. All drawings are presented at 1:48 scale, except the standing and running rigging and belaying plans, which are at 1:96 scale. These are pretty complete. As for quality; you be the judge! If you've seen any other SeaWatchBooks books, you will know what quality to expect.
  2. druxey
    Usually smaller coastal vessels such as cutters were clinker-built. It's unlikely that a 22-gun brig was clinker built. Also, the St Petersburg model's headwork looks very un-British in style. The Mercury figure was also used on British ships such as Fly, Speedwell and others, not just ships named Mercury!
  3. druxey
    Ah! The dreaded 'cumulative error' factor! It's good to be constantly aware of that possibility. The framing so far look great, Ben.
  4. druxey
    Looking interesting, Dan. I hope that the tape you've used comes off easily without taking the printed surface with it!
  5. druxey
    Good save of the topmast in re-orienting the sheave! 'Seizing' was perhaps the word that escaped you? Nice ropework.
  6. druxey
    Yes, very similar to Alan's rendering. I can send you images via PM.
  7. druxey
    Looking at English Sea Ordnance: The Age of the System by Adrian Caruana, the pattern used at that time period (Armstrong-Frederick and 1732 Regulation) had a small ornamental ring around the equator of the cascabel and the muzzle flare was slighter larger and distinctly more concave than in your illustrations above.
  8. druxey
    Nicely done and illustrated, Ab. A note for folk who prefer to use water-based paint such as acrylic on card models. If you do so, the card or paper will buckle. To avoid this, simply spray the model or parts with universal grey primer first to seal the surface. I learned this trick years ago when building card/paper maquettes for stage designs.
  9. druxey
    Very impressive, Igor. Usually I don't much care for this type of model, but what you have achieved here is outstanding.
  10. druxey
    Formidable, monsieur! Very impressive decorative detail, Michel.
  11. druxey
    The line tension discussion is interesting. I wet my (long fiber cotton) lines before hardening them: this lengthens them somewhat, then they contract as they dry under tension. After that, they seem stable. The exceptions are the cabled lines. The heavier ones do slacken off noticeably when humidity is lower.
  12. druxey
    Awesome indeed!
  13. druxey
    An interesting solution to the problem, Dan. What gold paint did you use, if I may ask?
  14. druxey
    Very nice results, Johann!
  15. druxey
    From the description, a clump block is what was earlier termed a 'thick' block. There were regularly proportioned blocks, as well as 'thin' blocks. The latter were, as implied, thinner for their length and were reeved with a lighter line than the regular version. Presumably 'thick' or 'clump' blocks carried lines of larger size than their 'normal' counterparts.
  16. druxey
    Nicely put, Mark!
  17. druxey
    You extend the lines in a smooth curve until they reach the bow rabbet.
  18. druxey
    The usual way to use rubber cement is to coat both surfaces to be glued, allow the solvent to dry, then press the parts together like contact cement. Until you press firmly, there is wiggle room to adjust. A piece of crepe rubber works just as well as your finger! A word of caution: after some years the rubber deteriorates and turns the card brown as well as loses adhesiveness.
  19. druxey
    Very impressive. Would dampening the houtbord help prevent it splitting while shaping it?
  20. druxey
    The models I saw did not have any moulded shape under the drip edge, Mark.
  21. druxey
    Nice internal strops, Michael!
  22. druxey
    Mark: a small point about the knuckle moulding (between lower and upper counters): the lower edge of this moulding sits about an inch below the lower counter plank surface to form a drip edge. I discovered this from examining contemporary museum models. In the last photo it looks to sit about an inch above the planking.
  23. druxey
    Good suggestion, Ed. Also, might I recommend respiratory protection when dusting with talc?
  24. druxey
    Very informative and educational, as well as entertaining, Ab! Thank you.
  25. druxey
    Congratulations on your anniversary and a happy, healthy, year ahead, Alan!

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