Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,092
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Looks terrific, Michael. Take care when working aloft!
  2. The lower photo (repeated) looks about right. I believe that it was Longridge who stated that this troublesome piece was shaped from solid rather than steam bent. I found that I had to slide that triangular piece in from above (if the hull is right side up!) and aft, down and forward, for a nice fit.
  3. That seems weird! As you say, there is something odd going on.
  4. The kit is just trying to give the impression that Allan's posting shows. The 'netting' in the photo is not it!
  5. Impressive, Dan! Well done. Aren't you going to build the rest of the Yamaha models as well?
  6. Brass often has a lacquer coating. Remove this with acetone and - voila!
  7. You have been exceedingly productive, Alex! Beautiful hull forms and details.
  8. If you are using nothing but straight, parallel strips, you will probably not only have difficulties but will be unhappy with the results. The only surface you can satisfactorily plank with straight strips is the side of a house. Boats aren't that shape, unfortunately. However, it's your model and your decision!
  9. All graphic programs have a big learning curve. Might the better route be to draw manually? Handling a long, flexible drafting curve is a much quicker learning process!
  10. Please read any (or all!) of the planking tutorials posted on this site. They should give you a clear idea of how to proceed.
  11. I agree that, with a cast gun, boring the barrel accurately is tricky. I made a molded fixture to hold the guns consistently vertical and centered in a machine vice so that the drill entered concentric to each gun.
  12. Good question, Dirk. The English also made repairs and replacements easier by through-bolts that were forelocked. How early this practice began, I'm not sure.
  13. I use the MicroMark lead-free pewter. As for all casting metals, you ned to skim off the dross before pouring. I can see that the urn-shaped opening might create a bottleneck/backup, allowing cooling to occur before complete filling of your mold. If low melting point is an issue, there is always Wood's Metal - it flows at below the boiling point of water! I've no idea what blackening agent might work on it, though. Cerrosafe is a non-toxic alternative.
  14. Congratulations on a fine result, Thunder. I remember seeing advertisements in Model Shipwright back in the '80s and wondered if the kit was as good as the photo in their ad. It is.
  15. How unusual! I wonder why a block was used there rather than a deadeye. However, if the profile plan is 'as built', one can't argue with it!
  16. Depending on how nicely the RTV mold is 'clamped' by the outer plaster one, the seam should be minimal. The slight seam, if there is one, is easily filed off. The finish used was a chemical one: Jax Pewter Black. Incidentally, the carronade pattern shown was the earliest one of 1782 that lacked the muzzle cup or extension seen on later ones. Another consideration is providing air vent passages in the mold to allow a complete 'fill'. Did you have such channels when you attempted to cast?
  17. Why the triple block on the channel, Paul? Just a placeholder?
  18. I used to pattern/duplicator turn my guns on a Unimat. The taper angle had to be a trial and error offset of the headstock. I found I needed a very fine-tip cutting bit for the reinforcing rings. Eventually I realized that it was not the best method of producing multiples, so made masters in wood. (By this time I also had a watchmaker's lathe, whose cross-slide could adjust for taper turning.) These masters were cast in clam-shell RTV molds supported by an outer dental plaster shells, then cast my cannon and carronades in lead-free pewter.
  19. Interesting indeed. I guess we need to wait for feedback from users as to whether it delivers as promised! It does not seem to mention the maximum size it can handle.
  20. Glad you didn't just take my word for it, Alan: verify, verify, verify!
  21. Much better! The planking should flow now, rather than crease across the bulkheads. You'll be very glad you went for the 'do-over'.
  22. Did you read A Primer for Planking? It explains why the garboard need to run out short at the bow.
  23. No, I've not tried acrylic 'pads', Mark - it was just an idea.
×
×
  • Create New...