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Everything posted by druxey
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Looks terrific, Michael. Take care when working aloft!
- 2,207 replies
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The lower photo (repeated) looks about right. I believe that it was Longridge who stated that this troublesome piece was shaped from solid rather than steam bent. I found that I had to slide that triangular piece in from above (if the hull is right side up!) and aft, down and forward, for a nice fit.
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That seems weird! As you say, there is something odd going on.
- 125 replies
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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The kit is just trying to give the impression that Allan's posting shows. The 'netting' in the photo is not it!
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Yamaha MT-01 by Dan Vadas - CARD - FINISHED
druxey replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Impressive, Dan! Well done. Aren't you going to build the rest of the Yamaha models as well? -
Brass often has a lacquer coating. Remove this with acetone and - voila!
- 125 replies
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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If you are using nothing but straight, parallel strips, you will probably not only have difficulties but will be unhappy with the results. The only surface you can satisfactorily plank with straight strips is the side of a house. Boats aren't that shape, unfortunately. However, it's your model and your decision!
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Best Software for Deck Plank Design?
druxey replied to knightyo's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
All graphic programs have a big learning curve. Might the better route be to draw manually? Handling a long, flexible drafting curve is a much quicker learning process! -
Good question, Dirk. The English also made repairs and replacements easier by through-bolts that were forelocked. How early this practice began, I'm not sure.
- 1,035 replies
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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I use the MicroMark lead-free pewter. As for all casting metals, you ned to skim off the dross before pouring. I can see that the urn-shaped opening might create a bottleneck/backup, allowing cooling to occur before complete filling of your mold. If low melting point is an issue, there is always Wood's Metal - it flows at below the boiling point of water! I've no idea what blackening agent might work on it, though. Cerrosafe is a non-toxic alternative.
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Congratulations on a fine result, Thunder. I remember seeing advertisements in Model Shipwright back in the '80s and wondered if the kit was as good as the photo in their ad. It is.
- 102 replies
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- speedy
- model shipwright
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Depending on how nicely the RTV mold is 'clamped' by the outer plaster one, the seam should be minimal. The slight seam, if there is one, is easily filed off. The finish used was a chemical one: Jax Pewter Black. Incidentally, the carronade pattern shown was the earliest one of 1782 that lacked the muzzle cup or extension seen on later ones. Another consideration is providing air vent passages in the mold to allow a complete 'fill'. Did you have such channels when you attempted to cast?
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I used to pattern/duplicator turn my guns on a Unimat. The taper angle had to be a trial and error offset of the headstock. I found I needed a very fine-tip cutting bit for the reinforcing rings. Eventually I realized that it was not the best method of producing multiples, so made masters in wood. (By this time I also had a watchmaker's lathe, whose cross-slide could adjust for taper turning.) These masters were cast in clam-shell RTV molds supported by an outer dental plaster shells, then cast my cannon and carronades in lead-free pewter.
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...and, order begins to emerge from chaos!
- 1,208 replies
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- great republic
- clipper
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Glad you didn't just take my word for it, Alan: verify, verify, verify!
- 125 replies
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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