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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    A very nice and neat simulation, Ed!
  2. druxey
    Very nicely done!
  3. druxey
    Superb!
  4. druxey
    Never leave masking tape on for a moment longer than needed - but you know that, now. Glad the fix-it worked out well!
  5. druxey
    I've seen models of centerboards showing a chain to a horizontal drum and two-handled winch. (Look for 'centreboards' on the RMG 'Collections/ models' site, but note the English spelling!
  6. druxey
    Nice work, Mike. But do the parts need any finish at all? Some clamps have the jaws lined with thin cork sheet.
  7. druxey
    Paul is correct for the era of Triton. The 'dropped' planks at the sides were hooked, as shown nicely above. You will, as master shipwright, determine the layout and taper yourself.
  8. druxey
    The collection of completed frames in the photo really demonstrates the quantity of wood a ship's framing consumed. Very nicely done, Albert.
  9. druxey
    Assuming your model is late 18th century and British, a 3-pounder was typically 4' 6" long. At 1:48 scale (and in metric!) that would be about 28mm.
  10. druxey
    Frank: I'm sorry to read that you have other more pressing matters right now, and hope that they are not too serious. Best wishes while your attention is focussed on these. We can wait until you return.
  11. druxey
    Venting a case will help, but not necessarily eliminate the issue. Sealing lead-bearing metal parts before they deteriorate with something like clear nail varnish will also help, but is no guarantee against break-down over time. The most effective measures? Never use lead or white metal parts. Replace them with lead-free fittings and dispose of the originals using hazardous materials handling and at a suitable waste facility.
  12. druxey
    Congratulations, Dan. I agree that the light maple base drew the eye too much away from the model. A good decision to stain it. Well done all round.
  13. druxey
    Ditto from me, Clare! Sorry you have to deal with an uninsured idiot.
  14. druxey
    I've never seen a Fearsome Step Drill before. I'd be terrified to use it on anything, let alone my model! You must have nerves of steel.
  15. druxey
    I believe that should read '...Training Corps." (Paragraph 3, line 2).
  16. druxey
    Excellent! That must be the last frame.
  17. druxey
    Don't the side planks curve up more to match the top of the sides?
  18. druxey
    You may need to take an average reading between uncompressed and maximum compression, Rob.
  19. druxey
    Such clean and excellent work as usual, Matiz!
  20. druxey
    Very, very organized and neat as well, Albert!
  21. druxey
    Nice painting. It could use a clean and revarnish to bring out the true colors. Hopefully you have a professional conservator nearby: that painting is worth it.
  22. druxey
    If a thread is laid up right handed, and you need to spin a right-handed line, all you need do is 'unspin' the separate strands (threads) first. As the headstock turns the strands will slacken, so move the tailstock away from the headstock. At a certain point the strands will commence to lay up again left-handed and you will see the tailstock begin to move toward the headstock. Check with a loupe until the strands are fully laid left-handed and continue to spin your line as usual.
  23. druxey
    Grumble about the time it takes to 'treenail'? Try a ship of the line! Seriously, your model looks very nice, Chuck. One question: weren't bottom boards removable for bailing and repair purposes? If so, that means less treenails!
  24. druxey
    If you decide you'd like to try ship model-making, you will find plenty of willing, friendly hands to offer tips and advice in support of your efforts.
  25. druxey
    I cut the planks either side of a port slightly overlength then, using a sanding stick with beveled sides away from the sandpaper face, gently sand to the frame edge. To keep the port square athwartships, the stick is rigid and long enough to pass through the port opposite.

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