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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I believe that scarphs in 'hook and butt' were formed as your sketch number 3. The Tiger's draughts seem to show a single, broad wale rather than the earlier style of three strakes, two of which were thicker and black. It would be reasonable to assume that the earliest 'broad' style wales were laid as three parallel ones, rather than top and butt or anchor stock.
  2. Had you considered tapering using hand tools (fine rasps, sandpaper) only?
  3. I don't normally follow kit build threads, but your work on this card model is amazing, Dan!
  4. Just catching up on your disasters and triumphs, Joe. Kudos for sticking with it despite setbacks. Your model is looking great.
  5. Thanks for adding the coin to give us a better idea of the size of your model, Dan. Nice observation (and recovery!) on the monkey deck: the model looks like the photos now. It always makes one wonder about 'design' vs 'as built' plans!
  6. Congratulations, Blue Ensign, on a lovely result. You have done a really fine job on your Peggy!
  7. I feel your pain, Alan. Been there, done that - repeatedly. Tomorow is another day....
  8. Oh, you tricky faker! Looks good, though....
  9. Another possibility is Volume IV, The Fully Framed Model. The rigging is identical in type and size to that on Cook's ships.
  10. There is an extensive explanation of fuses and bombs in Adrian Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume II, The Age of the System. It is a large (and expensive) work, but you may be able to access it through inter-library loan. It is a very scarce volume.
  11. A lathe is really a sledgehammer to crack a nut. I agree that there are many other ways of 'turning' spars. That's what the old-timers did in the shipyard! They planed or adzed a spar to a square cross-section first, then eight sided and finally rounded off the parts of the mast that were intended to be round. I use a simple 45 degree 'V' shaped jig to hold the squared spar in order to make it eight-square. Holding the spar in a vise, I use sandpaper strips to round things off, section by section. Advantages? You are not limited to any length and you've saved a ton of money. Of course, if you are planning on doing a lot of turning and machining, then go for a good lathe.
  12. Nice clean work, Mark. However, did you taper the plank thickness around to the rabbet? Or will you do that later?
  13. Had the idea of scratch building the parts you need occurred to you? You may find building your own parts a very satisfying exercise. There's always information and advice available on this site.
  14. Although not inexpensive, copies of the original draughts are always very helpful as well as instructional! They are a good investment, and make lovely wall decorations later when framed and displayed.
  15. Wow! Just catching up with your progress on this model. Quite the contrast to the original photos from last year. Well done!
  16. Oh, my ears and whiskers! That's quite the flyaround. All I'm missing now is the sound of water against the hull, flapping of canvas and shout of orders!
  17. Beautifully done, Eberhard! Speaking of ornamental turning, do you have a Holtzapffel or seen one in action? Quite mesmerizing!
  18. Yes, somewhat diluted PVA works well. I used a brayer (roller) to attach it down firmly and exclude air bubbles.
  19. Congratulations on an outstanding reconstruction, Dick!
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