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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    And here are the seat cushions. They were carved from some pear stock 3" thick. The piping along the edges was some fine line left over from another model. It was applied using acrylic matt medium. Had I used white glue, it would have dissolved when I painted the cushions with acrylic paint. I may deepen their color. Experiments with 'gold' are beginning to yield promising results. More soon.
  2. druxey
    Interesting progress, Maury. This futtocks and top timbers seem awfully short to me. I think there would be only one futtock and toptimber per frame pair. See ZAZ4972 in the NMM collection of a hoy, undated.
  3. druxey
    Nicely done scarphs, Frank. However, I believe keel scarphs were always made in the vertical plane.
  4. druxey
    Interesting modification on your Unimat: how is the brass stop secured on the cross-slide rail?
  5. druxey
    Some progress while I wait for various 'gilding' materials to arrive. The coach benches are made and installed. For the moment the forward and aft coach bulkheads are temporarily slotted into position and still removable. The plan of the coach indicates a locker lid aft. The benches were cushioned for the benefit of the Lord Commissioners' backsides, so these are next. I'll model them based on the ones seen in Prince Frederick's barge
  6. druxey
    Jud: your illustrations appear to show the aft tiller line crossing over the chimney area and so would get cooked.
  7. druxey
    Pat: I used a paintbrush to remove the finish after flooding and softening the paint.
  8. druxey
    Love the tooling and jigs, Gerald! How did you cut out the floor blanks?
  9. druxey
    Nice progress. Is that an iron spike lying there? You really shouldn't use ferrous metal on your model!
  10. druxey
    Those belayed lines look terrific, Bob.
  11. druxey
    Thanks for the tips and support, everyone. It is much appreciated. I will be experimenting with different 'gilt' finishes over the next few days. The first photograph shows the ends finished in gold paint. This was unacceptable, as previously mentioned. The second picture shows the inner side of one end piece and the other stripped of finish. There is a channel running across the lights between the layers which will enable me to slide the frames for the lights and glazing in after I finish the outer sides. The third photograph shows the ends of the coach temporarily in place. After the seating is in place the ends will be permanently installed and the sides constructed to a sliding fit. Next be to constructed will be the seating inside the coach.
  12. druxey
    Thanks for all these ideas, everyone. I'll try them out. I seem to recall using Buff 'n' Rub years ago on some picture frames. The low sheen it produced may be exactly what I'm after.
  13. druxey
    Well, no photos this time. I've been struggling with gilded finish for the coach. I first tried Humbrol gold paint. The look was too coppery red, 'grainy' and glossy. I stripped this off and sprayed using a yellower gold lacquer. Still far too shiny and grainy - it does not look right at this scale. I've just stripped this off using acetone (ugh!) in a well ventilated garage. I will experiment further. Gold leaf was one possibility, but it will reflect and magnify any tiny surface defect or dust mote. So... back to the workbench.
  14. druxey
    Just catching up, Bill. Good on you to do a re-work. That method of decking looked lovely while it lasted, though!
  15. druxey
    Consider dye or paint when you make the wales, Mike. Ebony is a b*gg*r from every point of view, as others have mentioned.
  16. druxey
    Thank you, gentlemen, for your kind remarks. Dan: I'm basing my ideas on the Prince Frederick's barge in the NMM. This has glazed sash lights and ornamental drapes in the corners of the coach.
  17. druxey
    Much detail, Phil? Nah, I don't think so. Thanks for the compliments, Jim and E&T.
  18. druxey
    A 4 pounder would have been usually 5' 6" long. Simply scale down the pattern of the 18 pounder and you'll be close enough.
  19. druxey
    In earlier ships, when planking was sawn by hand, average planks were 24' 0" to 28' 0" in length.
  20. druxey
    Joel has this right. There was a brilliant analysis of the slack/tight line tension and methods of overcoming this by John Harland some years ago in Mariners Mirror. The sweep was the first of these methods.
  21. druxey
    With this sort of hull form the wing transom is usually located at about the lower edge of the main wale aft. Based on the original draught, this coincides with the uppermost transom shown in the sectional view.
  22. druxey
    Looking terrific! Not much more to do before she's complete.
  23. druxey
    I'm always hesitant to take anything in the AOTS series as gospel truth. Perhaps building a mock-up of the presumed arrangement might shed some light on things.
  24. druxey
    Nice to see your return, E&T. I was beginning to wonder what had become of you and your model. Super result with the steering apparatus - particularly as you did this without a lathe!
  25. druxey
    This is normal. Your woods for the keel and false keel are of different species and absorb/give off moisture at different rates. You need to secure the assembly to your building board. As the build progresses, things will stabilize.

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