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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. You are right: the binnacle on Victory is a Victorian creation. Your 'take' on the binnacle from Amazon looks perfect, Siggi.
  2. Haven't seen or heard of anyone building a full-hull framed Echo yet, Mike. Will you be the first?
  3. Thanks, Mark. All my reference books are packed for moving, so I couldn't check. French ships must have lost a lot of rudders!
  4. And there is the Echo cross-section scratch build as well - check that out!
  5. Beautiful work, Rekon. Question: does the lower end of the rudder actually extend as far as the bottom of the false keel? In English ships, the rudder was always shorter, in case the ship touched ground.
  6. So, you were able to track down drawings of the Wallace and Crawford patent pumps. Well done! The working version, as well as the 1:96 one, looks exquisite. Congratulations.
  7. There are also three plates to this booklet, which are unfortunately not reproduced in the version cited.
  8. Lovely job, Bob. On my first model I drilled all the thousands of treenail holes using a pin vice, so know how you felt! I now 'dimple' the surface with a sharp point and can then confidently use a rotary handpiece (a Proxxon in this case) to drill those holes where I want them.
  9. This looks very interesting! Thanks for bringing Onshape to our attention.
  10. This seems like a powerful and easy to use unit! Interesting development, Dr. Per.
  11. I understand having a well-sharpened cutter at exactly the correct height on the turning diameter is vital. Your trick is the counter-pressure provided by your notched wood piece. I'll have to try that. Thank you for sharing this tip, Siggi!
  12. With such large cutting edges on your contour tool, I'm surprised that you didn't have a lot of breakages. I never had much luck with that style of cutter. Any tip on how to use them (I assume a very slow feed rate and high rpm's)?
  13. It will work - in theory. In order to have an accurate hull form, it means assembling the frames on the plug. This means that the inner surfaces of the frames would need to be accurately pre-bevelled and faired in order to fit the plug properly. A daunting task! If you are a highly skilled builder, it is possible; but for most mortals one of the more conventional methods of framing a model are more likely to be successful.
  14. Whether to cut in port sills before or after erecting the frames is a bit of a dilemma. If one has the discipline, temporarily erect the frames first, mark the sheer of the sills, disassemble again to cut the scores and finally reassemble permanently. That way gives one the best of both worlds. Sure, it's a bit more work, but....
  15. Nice, Magnus! Can one add more atmospheric haze?
  16. Sweet, Greg. But why only one rum barrel? Seriously, though, your model is terrific.
  17. I have no idea how I missed seeing this build log until now. Terrific work, Mike! (Assume every post of yours has an extra 'like' to it now!)
  18. Basic, yes; but important! The answer will depend on the kind of glue you intend to use. I recommend ones that wash up with water. White glue (polyvinyl alcohol or PVA glue) works well with wood. Any excess can be washed off before it sets. I use a small brush to apply it with and a larger one for clean-up. Yellow carpenters' glue (aliphatic resin) can be handled the same way. Also good for wood, paper and card. If you need metal to wood adhesion, you will need to go to an epoxy glue. This is best mixed and applied with a toothpick or other disposable item. Clean up, before it sets up, is with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Some folk use acetone, but this is toxic and flammable. I don't recommend it for your health! Hope this helps a bit.
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