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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Interesting viewpoint! I enjoy watching your progress, Magnus.
  2. It's a very clever idea. (Nice looking model, too!) That looks quite convincing: I assume this is at 1:48 scale?
  3. Some excellent information here. I particularly like the descriptions of painting a ship, circa 1804 (pages 27 & 28). Thanks, Wayne!
  4. I'm sure that there were a lot of transitional rigs. You are safe there!
  5. Heh, heh. And tomorrow, the world! Actually, I'd need to learn a suitable CAD program first before scorching any wood. Sorry about your scroll saw, E&T. I hope you got good mileage out of it before it quit.
  6. Before one has rigged a model, the task seems utterly daunting. This is Stage 1, where you are at. Take a deep breath and get yourself centered. Rigging is essentially a logical exercise. This should, as a software engineer, reassure you. Every line has a purpose and function, even if this is not immediately apparent. Begin with the standing rigging, lower first, working from forward to aft. If in doubt, there is plenty of help available on this forum. We all began our rigging experience at Stage 1 (see above).
  7. There is a new technique for making sails described in the revised TFFM, Volume IV. (The relevant information is also available as a separate booklet form SeaWatch Books.) The results can be seen on the 'workshops' page of Admiralty Models. You can see for yourself how this looks.
  8. The mizzen topgallant mast and yard was not usually fitted to smaller rates until the 1790's. This was also apparently true of driver booms. The updated masting plan indicates this.
  9. Nice use of the free library technology! Where do you live? I'll be right over! Everything on the hull lines up beautifully.
  10. I like this story, Wefalck! Looking forward to the next instalment....
  11. Acrylic/latex caulking is good as it will take paint, whereas silicon will not. As it is not really sandable when dry, you will need to apply it carefully and wipe it with a damp piece of paper towel to smooth it.
  12. A windlass of about 1815 on a small vessel would be worked by short capstan-style bars called normans. It would look like the one Chuck Passaro sells on the Syren Ship Model Company's site.
  13. I've not come across any contemporary descriptions, I'm afraid. Perhaps someone else has?
  14. Very nice metalwork, Mick. If you are looking at another lathe, I've found a watchmakers' lathe with compound cross-slide excellent for model work. One can find them, often in very good condition, on eBay.
  15. I suspect that there was a small ringbolt inside. You could reach through and grab it to close the scuttle. A small rod of wood could then be passed through the ring to keep the scuttle closed.
  16. Yup, primer will show up everything! Fortunately, in this case a bit of automotive filler and sanding will see you right. I'd use caulking at the plank/stem joint, though.
  17. The sides and sills of the timbers should match the quarter badge opening on the sheer draught.
  18. The sides of the opening should probably be parallel to each other, Ben.
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