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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    This seems like a powerful and easy to use unit! Interesting development, Dr. Per.
  2. druxey
    I understand having a well-sharpened cutter at exactly the correct height on the turning diameter is vital. Your trick is the counter-pressure provided by your notched wood piece. I'll have to try that. Thank you for sharing this tip, Siggi!
  3. druxey
    With such large cutting edges on your contour tool, I'm surprised that you didn't have a lot of breakages. I never had much luck with that style of cutter. Any tip on how to use them (I assume a very slow feed rate and high rpm's)?
  4. druxey
    Ah, yes, Mick: the alcohol and invective solution!
  5. druxey
    It will work - in theory. In order to have an accurate hull form, it means assembling the frames on the plug. This means that the inner surfaces of the frames would need to be accurately pre-bevelled and faired in order to fit the plug properly. A daunting task! If you are a highly skilled builder, it is possible; but for most mortals one of the more conventional methods of framing a model are more likely to be successful.
  6. druxey
    Whether to cut in port sills before or after erecting the frames is a bit of a dilemma. If one has the discipline, temporarily erect the frames first, mark the sheer of the sills, disassemble again to cut the scores and finally reassemble permanently. That way gives one the best of both worlds. Sure, it's a bit more work, but....
  7. druxey
    Nice, Magnus! Can one add more atmospheric haze?
  8. druxey
    I have no idea how I missed seeing this build log until now. Terrific work, Mike! (Assume every post of yours has an extra 'like' to it now!)
  9. druxey
    Basic, yes; but important! The answer will depend on the kind of glue you intend to use. I recommend ones that wash up with water. White glue (polyvinyl alcohol or PVA glue) works well with wood. Any excess can be washed off before it sets. I use a small brush to apply it with and a larger one for clean-up. Yellow carpenters' glue (aliphatic resin) can be handled the same way. Also good for wood, paper and card. If you need metal to wood adhesion, you will need to go to an epoxy glue. This is best mixed and applied with a toothpick or other disposable item. Clean up, before it sets up, is with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Some folk use acetone, but this is toxic and flammable. I don't recommend it for your health! Hope this helps a bit.
  10. druxey
    A gold for this model AND a silver for your other one! Terrific! Congratulations.
  11. druxey
    Well done and well deserved, Thanasis!
  12. druxey
    Thanks, Jack, for describing how you keep your macaroni's edges keen. I have a number of other Pfeil brand craving tools, and can attest to their sharpness, as well as their quality, straight from the factory.
  13. druxey
    A rather startling subject heading! Perhaps something along the lines of the illustration?
  14. druxey
    Jack: how do you sharpen a small macaroni chisel? I've always been curious about that.
  15. druxey
    The extra 'frames', parallel to the keel, are called hawse timbers. If you look at other framed models on this site, you will see how that works. Of course, Hahn has stylized real world framing. Usually there are four or five hawse timbers per side.
  16. druxey
    Have a good and healthy winter, then, Kester.
  17. druxey
    Great start(s) to your project, Glenn! There were a lot of board feet of wood in those vessels.
  18. druxey
    Clever technique with copper plates and tape! Looking lovely.
  19. druxey
    "As if I ain't got enough ter do," Killick muttered. "Extra grog, 'e says."
  20. druxey
    Sawdust Dave: All I was trying to say was consider the idea: I wasn't pushing that you go in that direction. I certainly didn't mean to criticize your work! If you took me wrong, I apologize. Please don't immolate anyone!
  21. druxey
    So, consider a little change in direction, Sawdust Dave. Do you want to leave five sub-standard models or one really good one? I know which way I jump!
  22. druxey
    If that dark wood is ebony, be very careful of your lungs! I would never use it myself. Try holly or pear that is dyed black. Either bends and glues much more easily and is less toxic.
  23. druxey
    I think Chuck has it absolutely right: you cannot rush and be sloppy if you want a great result.
  24. druxey
    Nice work so far, Hans Christian. Use a water-based glue and wash off any excess before it sets. Then there won't be any glue stains. If it's any help, I built my first big framed model (over a metre long) on my dining room table!
  25. druxey
    Bitten sie: in Englisch schreiben! (Please write in English.) A beautiful result!

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