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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    For non-German speakers: 'Flacheisen': flat iron bar 'Rundeisen': round iron bar 'Stutzknie aus hotlz': wooden standard
  2. druxey
    I found that excess glue was best removed after the frames were in. A fine-tipped brush and isopropanol (a small section at a time) softened any excess glue, and then a miniature chisel tip could scrape off the gummy remnants nicely. Time consuming? Yes, but the result was satisfying.
  3. druxey
    Actually, you should be able to remove the shell from the plug at any point in planking. It's amazing how it keeps its shape without distorting if you've spiled the planks properly. Looks great so far!
  4. druxey
    Those companion ladders give a sense of how large the ship really was! Lovely work, Zbigniew.
  5. druxey
    If the overlaps were sanded to an angle as described in the instructions, then the gluing surfaces should hold when she comes off the plug.
  6. druxey
    If you nailed that cross-chock first time around, then you are a Master!
  7. druxey
    Dave: I think the apparent over-width is due to the overlap required for the second strake.
  8. druxey
    That is very nicely done: especially the shrouds at the mast head. Well done, Doris!
  9. druxey
    Yes, Maury: make the forward plank of the garboard strake first. You can then place it exactly into the stem rabbet. The aft plank will be (comparatively) easy!
  10. druxey
    Ian: maybe you should offer to buy Ed's offcuts! Just don't try to pass them off as your own.
  11. druxey
    Have you calibrated your callipers by adjusting them at zero?
  12. druxey
    You look like you're off to a good start and seem to know what you are doing! Be optimistic.
  13. druxey
    Please read the various tutorials on planking on this site.(That's why they are there for you!) They will answer most, if not all, of your questions. In addition to the second batten near the bow, the lowest one should not rise as far as you have it at present. The garboard plank should not rise up the bow.
  14. druxey
    They were shaped rather like a Rugby football. I believe that all the information you need is in Steel's Rigging and Seamanship. The same information (but only for sixth rates) is in Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model.
  15. druxey
    I suspect that they didn't make items to tolerances of hundredths of an inch!
  16. druxey
    YES, they did - at least in 18th century British practice. Although not specifically mentioned in contemporary books such as Steel, this feature can be seen if one looks carefully at contemporary models. The wales always tapered in thickness around the bow so that they fitted nicely into the rabbet at the stem. This taper also aided bending the strakes around the bow. It is more than likely that other countries did the same thing.
  17. druxey
    Oh, good! They looked horizontal in your photo. Must be the angle it was taken at.
  18. druxey
    Who will miss the slots, Doris? That was a great re-working in a difficult area.
  19. druxey
    Looks very good, Ben, but the hawse holes should not be level. They follow the sheer as the wale comes around the bow. This means that the inner ones are higher (or the outer ones lower). Please check this before you commit to drilling!
  20. druxey
    Excellent, Toni!
  21. druxey
    Others have said it all. Terrific, Michael!
  22. druxey
    Nice, Toni. Did you remember to taper the wale thickness down at the bow to ease bending the plank and so that it fits the rabbet?
  23. druxey
    Always a treat to see your progress, Mark. Color choice looks great.
  24. druxey
    There is also the beautiful coppered contemporary model of Minerva in the Rogers' Collection, Annapolis.
  25. druxey
    Thanks for sharing your vacation with us, Toni. Now, back to model-making!

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