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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I believe you are correct in suspecting Hahn: he stylized many things in his models, by his own admission.
  2. Well, the best method would be not to use tacks through your planks, but it's a bit late for that advice now! See other build logs for different methods of temporarily holding planks. If the wood is fairly soft, you may be able to use water to swell the grain and close the holes that way. Use a small paint brush and dab water just into each hole. It will probably take several rounds to close the hole up. Once closed, the wood will need a very light sanding, as you will have raised the grain. If this fails to work, you may need to use some wood filler.
  3. Deck planking in the time of Victory would have been 10" to 12" wide. It was in lengths of 24' 0" to 28' 0" with butts sitting on a beam. You will need to know where the beams are located. C. N. Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships will be a good guide for you. It has extensive illustrations, of the ship, plans and text. Have fun!
  4. Well, you made me smile on two counts: one being news on Judy's recovery, and the other on the progress photos you've posted.
  5. The rotary disc didn't catch the corners of any of the plates? I'm impressed! The cabin joinery looks terrific, Ed!
  6. Yes, the same John Harland. He is very active, in his 90's now, and still turning out papers!
  7. The development of carronade slides is an avenue of research all its own. I recently needed to find details of an early form of slide and found a plethora of different design variations as the Admiralty and Woolwich Arsenal (not the football team!) tried to work out the snags. One of the best sources (you may need to get this through library loan, as copies are rare) is Adrian Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, 1523-1875, Volume II, The Age of the System, 1715-1815.
  8. The 'light in the bulwark' is a ventilation scuttle. These were fitted with an outward opening lid that had a 'U' hinge mounted sideways. There was one to each cabin. However, these were not shown on any draught that I've seen, only in some contemporary illustrations and paintings. The date of 1809 in your illustration shows that iron knees were already in common use.
  9. Courage, Alan, courage! Worry will simply render you immobile. Jump right on in. Mistakes - and there will be some, no matter how experienced you are - are usually correctable. Isopropyl alcohol (for dissolving glue, not for consumption!), ingenuity and patience are your friends, in addition to your friends on this site.
  10. I note that a copy of this sought-after book is currently (15.3.2015) on eBay, item 181691089966
  11. Well, Alan, you have been productive! After you've been reading contracts or 18th century printed matter for a while, you automatically 'tranflate' the long 's' as you go and don't give it a moment's fecond thought. See? Re-makes are as standard procedure for a quality model. You'll be glad you didn't just let it go. Otherwise it'll come back and bite you later on.
  12. There were also good articles by Mr. Hoving in Model Shipwright some years ago. Specifically, issues numbered 58, 60, 66, 69 and 71.
  13. Making good progress, JKLee. Lovely work.
  14. I seem to recall an article on capstans in all their infinite variety by John Harland that appeared in the Nautical Research Journal relatively recently. Perhaps you can find the information there.
  15. Ah... the missing word acrylic gouache! Traditional gouache is simply opaque water-colour and the binder (gum arabic) is readily resoluble in water. Acrylic binder is not. That is why I was confused. Thanks, Ed.
  16. Thanks for your explanation, Ed. Does gouache, being water soluble, not dissolve as you apply acrylic paint over it?
  17. I must agree with Gaetan. The scalpel blade is designed only for fine, light work. Many modelmakers use X-acto blades for carving - a mistake, in my opinion. Purpose-made micro carving tools, designed for that job, will give far better service and results in wood. I use #11 surgical blades for cutting card patterns, trimming rigging and other work of that nature.
  18. The use of cherry is an aesthetic choice - yours, in this case, Gaetan. It sounds as if that judge had a preconceived notion of the 'correct' wood to use, which apparently wasn't cherry! I don't use cherry myself, but love your choice of doing so on this model. So there!
  19. Ed, could you please explain your rationale for using gouache as a primer? Thanks!
  20. Coming along nicely, Toni. Good move to make the step functional in case you want to mount a bowsprit or even rig your model. As far as scupper holes are concerned, if you are in fear and doubt, drill blind holes both from inside and out. Drill undersize and gradually open the holes out to spec.
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