druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Excuse the question, but why is a propane torch not an option for you? I've found this, with a cast iron ladle, the most convenient way of melting and pouring pewter. Lovely work, Mark. -
Is there a better #11 blade handle
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I agree with Gaetan: there is no comparison with surgical blades to Exacto ones. Of course, they are not intended for heavy cutting. (A Languinole, Gaetan? A very lovely tool for large whittling or carving and, as you say, a beautiful blade!) -
That is such a shame: your work looks lovely otherwise. The glue appears to have wicked into the wood, so I doubt if there is any remedy for the problem other than perhaps trying acetone. This is wicked stuff and should only be used in a well ventilated space, with organic solvent respiratory protection and absolutely no spark or flame in the vicinity. Myself, I would never use CA glue anywhere at all on a quality model. White and yellow glue is good for wood and epoxy for wood/metal joints.
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I assume you cut the wrong side of the lower stem scarph away, Alan? I seem to recall having done that once myself, years ago! I feel your pain.
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Seagoing gun carriages did not have iron 'tires' on the trucks: this would have worn the decking rapidly. Only land-based fort guns had iron bands.
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My top is supported on a thin dowel stem at centre height attached to a light base. This slides along the workbench nicely. The two (transverse) projecting arms of the base prevent the top from turning.
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I suppose with limited light, slow exposure plates and before flash photography, it would have been impossible to take a good photo of the interior of a ship.
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Chère M. Delacroix, Congratulations on the publication of your new monograph. The harbour supply vessel is a lovely and unusual subject. As usual, your drawings are first rate. Hopefully an English language edition will follow for those unfamiliar with French. Avec meilleurs souhaits, Druxey
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Thanks, Joel. The staff at the bow was set through an eyebolt driven on the aft side of the hair bracket. This was usual practice. The hull was not coppered before launching. This way any leaks could be located and caulked before coppering in the dry dock.
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It's a beakhead bulkhead, Jack. Nice work so far!
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Can you cite your source, Joel? It would be appreciated!
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Well, I'm glad you found an inexpensive solution, Daniel. I had no idea postage to Spain was so expensive!
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The correct plank end detail with the square stern fashion piece is delightful, Chuck!
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A scalpel handle is the only thing for scalpel blades. Tip: use a pair of pliers when changing blades: it's much safer than fingers! -
If you are using a jeweller's drawplate, it won't work for wood. It's designed to squeeze wire to thinner diameters. Get yourself a Byrnes' drawplate from Model Machines. That is made specifically to shave wood.
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But you've made the block, Michael: it's the cylinder head that's needed! Seriously, a few days off now and again ain't a bad thing.
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Very nicely, done, Bob.
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Acrylics are soluble in alcohol, so presumably the alcohol content in polyvinylalcoholic (white) glue, will dissolve the finish sufficiently to form a good bond.
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Nice mini-tutorial, Wefalck.
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
druxey replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
With the rabbeted edge rather than a bevel, how do you transition to the gain fore and aft, Lee? Looks like Lee Valley Tools got you! Very nicely done. -
The quoin is the wedge under the rear of the cannon, Siggi. There were 18 pounder guns cast to the Blomefield pattern that were 8' 0" long, but only after 1787, so that isn't the answer, now that I looked it up!
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