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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I agree with Greg: I used to sand down to 400 grit, but decided that it was a bit excessive. -
I can only speculate, but perhaps some builders delay the external planking is because they are scared of its complexity.
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Looking terrific, Michael.
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Tony: it's not the mast, but the yard (or yards) that can be a'cockbill. This means that one yard arm is tipped lower than the other, which is raised, of course. At one time, ships' yards were tilted alternately (with the sails furled) as a mark of respect when a ranking officer had died.
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As a general rule, serving was only applied (over worming and parcelling) where there was the possibility of chafing. The foremost shroud could get rubbed by the sail and the shrouds, where they pass around the mast head, would also be served. Apparently, on some ships, the captain or commander disliked served strops because it would hide signs of deterioration of the line or its splice. So, it's really model makers' choice!
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Sure beats a miniature plunger for lapping in the valve seats! Good stuff.
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In real rigging there is a splice to make the loop of rope. This loop is called a strop. Its splice sits over the end of the block. For modelmaking, these strops are not too easy to make in small scales. Some modellers substitute soldered wire loops and paint them. If the loop is not too small, one could slightly unravel the ends of the line and glue them together. Another method might be to knot the line, then hide this under the lashing beneath the block. In a real splice, this area is slightly thicker than the line itself, so a slight bulge would actually look realistic.
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Oh, yes. The lapping compound and jewellers' rouge routine... I remember it well.
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Good advice. Note the stress on the word 'sharp'.
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Looking at the photos, it took me back some 50 years to replacing the side valves in a four-cylinder 'sit-up-and-beg' Ford engine after re-grinding the valve seats. Getting those split retainers back in place against spring pressure was a miserable task! Thanks for the memory, Michael.
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Tilting Table on Byrnes Saw
druxey replied to jhearl's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It's perfectly possible. Cut sheet stock to thickness first, then add the tilting table and cut strips off the sheet. Ta da! -
"Huh? What did you say? That first shot deafened me." "I said, WE FORGOT TO COVER OUR EARS, MATE!"
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Old ships transporting horses and wagons???
druxey replied to NAZGÛL's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The famous naval architect, F.H. Chapman, designed two sizes of horse transport with special loading ramps and doors in the bows specifically for this purpose. -
I think we all - consciously or unconsciously - use sight, touch, hearing and, sometimes, smell when working!
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That quantity of flour confirms your theory, I think!
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The bread oven theory seems very plausible. In the stores lists is there mention of flour? Very nice reconstruction drawing!
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Constructing a rope from strands - selecting strand sizes
druxey replied to lehmann's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
One could, as I did, make up a number of lines, recording the number of threads used on each whirl and type of thread used. Then measure and calculate rope diameter from measuring those samples. The results should be reliably repeatable. -
You happen to be in luck, Daniel: I actually had a copy of Triton's sheer draught in my collection to refer to. Her mizzen mast steps on the keel. Might I suggest you get a copy of this draught, which shows a wealth of detail, both inboard and out? The National Maritime Museum's reference is ZAZ3235.
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He looks a little cool! Is his posture a little round-shouldered for a soldier? Thanks for posting this simulation in progress. It's interesting to see.
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Longridge simplified his deck treenailing, I believe. In reality, wood plugs were used over nails and the grain matched that of the deck, so were virtually invisible. At 1:100 scale, I'd leave them off.
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Bee-utiful work, Ed! Were there lockers or storage in the stern behind the semi-circular panelling either side of the rudderahead? I would imagine ever inch of useable space to be taken advantage of.
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One possible way to minimize seasonal movement is to do the structural work in the winter (low humidity) season. In the higher humidity of summer, the wood may expand slightly, but there will be no cracks or gaps. Reverse this sequence, and any movement problem will be magnified.
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Bee-utiful, Michael! A set of reamers are very useful to have in the shop.
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