Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,520
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Michael: take a look at the three planking articles pinned on this site. That will help you understand planking better.
  2. Ah, 'twas ever thus in pursuit of perfection.... Hopefully the re-do will satisfy you. Look forward to seeing your progress.
  3. Any reasonable brand of chisel will do. Lee Valley Tools have a good selection. The key is sharpening it. Take a look at Lee Valley's sharpening jig (Mark II Honing Guide) and water stones. Until I got these (many years ago now!) I could never cut a good clean joint. Once I learned how to properly sharpen and hone my tools I amazed myself at what I could do with them. They also have a good book on sharpening tools properly. Start out with a ⅜" or ½" bevel edged chisel, then add others as and when you need them. Disclaimer: other than as a long-time customer of LV, I have no other connection with them.
  4. With practice and a sharp chisel, you should be able to cut consistent joints. Accurate mark-out is also critical.
  5. Possibly consider using your computer to print this out at very high resolution?
  6. I seem to recall brake fluid will do the trick without damaging the plastic but, before you do that, check with an on-line plastic model making site.
  7. It's always nice to see a model of a subject that's more unusual. Scroll saw skills improve with a bit of practice. I find a fine blade, tensioned properly, and a good light improved my success rate considerably.
  8. Nice corrective surgery, Ed. The beams and knees will ensure that the hull form stays put later, right?
  9. Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.
  10. Admiralty Models will be running workshops on sailmaking later this Fall. See their web site.
  11. Part of the issue seems to be the wing transom. The upper outer corner should meet the aft side of the last frame at an angle, not a curve.
  12. There are three planking tutorials right here on MSW. Take a look at them first.
  13. Yes, the topmast would need to be lowered from time to time, so a fid would be required. It would need to sit squarely on the trestle trees.
  14. Assuming that the cross and trestle trees are set parallel to the waterline, no special arrangement would be needed other than the space for the topmast to pass through would need to be slightly oblong rather than square, and the fid hole cut in the topmast heel so that the fid was normal to the trestle trees. Or am I in error?
  15. John Cole's advice is sound, as is Jim Lad's suggestion that you read the articles that are available right here on MSW. To start with, take a look at the tutorials on planking.
  16. Yes, that clamp is a tough one to get in nicely. I'm sure the original shipwrights were thinking the same as you as they wrestled it into shape and place! Well done, Mark.
  17. Now I'm seeing things - a scale pelican???? Lovely looking stern, too.
×
×
  • Create New...