druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well, Alan, you have been productive! After you've been reading contracts or 18th century printed matter for a while, you automatically 'tranflate' the long 's' as you go and don't give it a moment's fecond thought. See? Re-makes are as standard procedure for a quality model. You'll be glad you didn't just let it go. Otherwise it'll come back and bite you later on. -
There were also good articles by Mr. Hoving in Model Shipwright some years ago. Specifically, issues numbered 58, 60, 66, 69 and 71.
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
druxey replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Making good progress, JKLee. Lovely work. -
I seem to recall an article on capstans in all their infinite variety by John Harland that appeared in the Nautical Research Journal relatively recently. Perhaps you can find the information there.
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Ah... the missing word acrylic gouache! Traditional gouache is simply opaque water-colour and the binder (gum arabic) is readily resoluble in water. Acrylic binder is not. That is why I was confused. Thanks, Ed.
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Thanks for your explanation, Ed. Does gouache, being water soluble, not dissolve as you apply acrylic paint over it?
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I must agree with Gaetan. The scalpel blade is designed only for fine, light work. Many modelmakers use X-acto blades for carving - a mistake, in my opinion. Purpose-made micro carving tools, designed for that job, will give far better service and results in wood. I use #11 surgical blades for cutting card patterns, trimming rigging and other work of that nature.
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The use of cherry is an aesthetic choice - yours, in this case, Gaetan. It sounds as if that judge had a preconceived notion of the 'correct' wood to use, which apparently wasn't cherry! I don't use cherry myself, but love your choice of doing so on this model. So there!
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Ed, could you please explain your rationale for using gouache as a primer? Thanks!
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Coming along nicely, Toni. Good move to make the step functional in case you want to mount a bowsprit or even rig your model. As far as scupper holes are concerned, if you are in fear and doubt, drill blind holes both from inside and out. Drill undersize and gradually open the holes out to spec.
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It's interesting to see that there is torsion between the hearts on actual examples and contemporary models; it's always bothered me that exactly the same thing happens with my rigging!
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Looks very nice, but you might wish to coat the lead with lacquer. This will prevent deterioration into lead salts from contact with air later on.
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I think you have it (clothes) pegged as well as nailed! Your 'messy' c/b is most other folk's neat, Vaddoc. And as far as the skin is concerned, it's always better to have wood to remove rather than have too little!
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I know that the original image is an NMM historic watercolour. My point is that even 'historic' evidence needs to be questioned.
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Impressive work at any scale, never mind so small!
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Sorry Siggi, that wasn't intended as a joke. It was a serious suggestion. There are other examples of different arrangements during time of war, such as snaking between the stays and preventer stays, which was not the case in times of peace. However, I agree what I wrote was a 'vielleicht' rather than 'sicher'! I always hope that someone else can give a definite example to either confirm or deny a theory. Even historic information can be misleading. The example of the cabin you posted probably looked more like my modified version!
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Once again, I'm smiling at the photos of your work. Beautiful.
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Perhaps those cabins were a peace-time arrangement, with some of the armament removed.
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Welcome back, Bill. Good to see you getting going again!
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For a ship that size, I think the hawse holes would have a diameter of about 27cm to 30cm. Is that close to what your plans show?
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Thanks for this url, Wayne. I'd come across Judichaer's name a number of times and it was interesting to read about his life and career. The examination and analysis of the model was also fascinating.
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The hawse hole size is related to the anchor cable size. That, in turn, is related to the size of the ship. Perhaps if you can tell us the known factors, one can calculate or estimate the unknown in this case. Glad you figured out the circle/ellipse paradox!
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One usually pulls on an oar as one faces toward the stern. It seems to me that the illustration is correct, but not the model.
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They are - or ought to be - circular. Depending on the angle of your viewing a hawse, it may look circular or elliptical. Remember that not only does the hole appear on an angled surface, but the hole itself is usually drilled at an angle. It lies at a downward angle as it goes outboard, and its path was also often slightly curved.
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