druxey
-
Posts
13,098 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
In real rigging there is a splice to make the loop of rope. This loop is called a strop. Its splice sits over the end of the block. For modelmaking, these strops are not too easy to make in small scales. Some modellers substitute soldered wire loops and paint them. If the loop is not too small, one could slightly unravel the ends of the line and glue them together. Another method might be to knot the line, then hide this under the lashing beneath the block. In a real splice, this area is slightly thicker than the line itself, so a slight bulge would actually look realistic.
-
Oh, yes. The lapping compound and jewellers' rouge routine... I remember it well. -
Good advice. Note the stress on the word 'sharp'.
-
Looking at the photos, it took me back some 50 years to replacing the side valves in a four-cylinder 'sit-up-and-beg' Ford engine after re-grinding the valve seats. Getting those split retainers back in place against spring pressure was a miserable task! Thanks for the memory, Michael.
-
Tilting Table on Byrnes Saw
druxey replied to jhearl's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It's perfectly possible. Cut sheet stock to thickness first, then add the tilting table and cut strips off the sheet. Ta da! -
"Huh? What did you say? That first shot deafened me." "I said, WE FORGOT TO COVER OUR EARS, MATE!"
-
Old ships transporting horses and wagons???
druxey replied to NAZGÛL's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The famous naval architect, F.H. Chapman, designed two sizes of horse transport with special loading ramps and doors in the bows specifically for this purpose. -
I think we all - consciously or unconsciously - use sight, touch, hearing and, sometimes, smell when working!
-
That quantity of flour confirms your theory, I think!
- 346 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- terror
- polar exploration
- (and 2 more)
-
The bread oven theory seems very plausible. In the stores lists is there mention of flour? Very nice reconstruction drawing!
-
Constructing a rope from strands - selecting strand sizes
druxey replied to lehmann's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
One could, as I did, make up a number of lines, recording the number of threads used on each whirl and type of thread used. Then measure and calculate rope diameter from measuring those samples. The results should be reliably repeatable. -
You happen to be in luck, Daniel: I actually had a copy of Triton's sheer draught in my collection to refer to. Her mizzen mast steps on the keel. Might I suggest you get a copy of this draught, which shows a wealth of detail, both inboard and out? The National Maritime Museum's reference is ZAZ3235.
-
He looks a little cool! Is his posture a little round-shouldered for a soldier? Thanks for posting this simulation in progress. It's interesting to see.
-
Longridge simplified his deck treenailing, I believe. In reality, wood plugs were used over nails and the grain matched that of the deck, so were virtually invisible. At 1:100 scale, I'd leave them off.
-
Bee-utiful work, Ed! Were there lockers or storage in the stern behind the semi-circular panelling either side of the rudderahead? I would imagine ever inch of useable space to be taken advantage of.
- 3,612 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
One possible way to minimize seasonal movement is to do the structural work in the winter (low humidity) season. In the higher humidity of summer, the wood may expand slightly, but there will be no cracks or gaps. Reverse this sequence, and any movement problem will be magnified.
-
Bee-utiful, Michael! A set of reamers are very useful to have in the shop.
-
Your striding captain is terrific. Now add the extra complexity of a moving deck beneath his feet!
-
Shouldn't have that much dross on top, Mark. All pewter will have a thin scum that should be flicked off with a wooden stir stick just before pouring. Leaving the master inside the RTV while casting the outer plaster jacket is a good idea. I've used 1:1 RTV rubber without an issue.
-
You are now under way, I see. Good stuff! A rubber cement eraser is easier to use than the regular pencil eraser: it's a piece of crepe rubber. For next time around: Usually black paper is glued to one side of the joint with the glue spread on the wood surface. Then the paper (dry) is laid onto the wet glue, pressed down and allowed to set. Then the joint pieces are glued together. As you discovered, wet paper has no strength at all. Alternatively, color the glue with powdered pigment. I'm not sure if Gorilla glue is a good one to use, as it foams out from the joints. White or yellow carpenter's glue is best and easiest to clean up with a damp brush or rag before it sets.
-
Looking good, Ben. I see you have included the fillings up to the floor heads. Nice.
-
Is the 'brown sludge' you describe dross that rises to the top of the molten metal? This oxidation product needs to be skimmed off before pouring. The metal you pour should look bright and shiny, like liquid mercury. I skim the surface of the metal with a wooden stir stick before each pour. A quick flick gets rid of it. The mould will brown slightly after a time, but there should not be any build-up of anything in it.
-
Excellent!
Our Emblem ®
