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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Well, the wax option is useful for making repeatable metal castings. That certainly expands the range of possibilities for this machine.
  2. druxey
    Ken: Yes, I'd treat both sides of the pieces as insurance, even if one side is not to be painted. I assumed that a part to be painted would mean hiding the printed surface. I suppose one could use a clear matt acrylic spray (carefully!) if the paintwork was to be transparent, but I've never tried this myself.
  3. druxey
    The (automotive) primer is solvent based, so that paper or card is not affected by moisture, and a waterproof coating results.
  4. druxey
    Thanks for the extra information, Iain. Does this machine use only resin, or are there other materials that could be substituted?
  5. druxey
    Interesting configuration, Iain. Is there a reason for the angle you oriented the piece at, as well as so many supporting sprues (for lack of knowing the correct term)? Also, what would be the print time at fine resolution?
  6. druxey
    Nice to see progress, Clare. One way of avoiding soggy paper or card is to spray with grey primer first. Then you can use acrylic paint over it, as it renders the card waterproof. I've done this for years with models of stage sets I've designed.
  7. druxey
    The slots could also be filed out.
  8. druxey
    Unfortunately kits can be frustratingly misleading at times. The way it was done (both in models and the real ships) was as you describe: slots in the edge of the channel and a covering strip put on afterwards. If you can shave the edge of the channel off down to the holes, then glue a strip on after, that would be the best solution. The 'before and after' on a scratch-built model show this method.
  9. druxey
    I've just been silver soldering quite small parts: rings of ⅛" o.d. copper to brass strip for topsail yard stunsail booms at 1:48 scale. I had no difficulty with the joints, directing more heat on the brass which then conducted to the copper. I was using 'medium' silver solder (from sheet) and a butane micro-torch (similar to Hornet's posted photo). An example of these irons is shown here.
  10. druxey
    Rivetting so far looks great, Vadoc!
  11. druxey
    Luvverly, Mark!
  12. druxey
    Knice knurls!
  13. druxey
    Perhaps this analysis is overkill. Wood expands and contracts with humidity levels. So, were you to 'mike' the samples on another day, your readings will probably differ. You can't compare wood to, say, metal.
  14. druxey
    Seems a pity to cover all those carlings and ledges.... Beautiful work, Lee.
  15. druxey
    Just catching up on your progress, John. Nice work; she's looking really good.
  16. druxey
    A slightly belated happy anniversary and many more, Michael and Judy! Manifold and carb are looking great.
  17. druxey
    Thanks for the comprehensive reply, E&T. I was thinking only of underwater streamlining. It's nice to know that, in this case, all you need do is 'wait and see'!
  18. druxey
    Terrific update, E & T. Question: would not the reinforcing straps have been inset flush to the surface of the wooden elements?
  19. druxey
    Perhaps another source for earlier design (to add to your list, Wayne) is from the so-called "Newton Manuscript': a transcription by Sir Isaac Newton of a treatise c.1600. This gives instructions for designing ships, both naval and merchant. It is given in its entirety in an article in Mariners' Mirror, 1994, Volume 80, No.1. The 67 'Propositions' given describe how to design a ship.
  20. druxey
    Neat story so far. Gute gesundheit, Wefalck! Get well soon.
  21. druxey
    Congratulations for arriving at this point in the build, Ed. She looks terrific.
  22. druxey
    Yes, I checked that Lee melting pot out on line. As it will achieve a temperature that melts lead-free pewter, that's a great solution if one is doing a quantity of casting work which, for a 74, is certainly the case! Of course, you will now be deluged with requests from others to cast cannon for them....
  23. druxey
    Well done, Mark. That melting set-up you have looks interesting. Much more sophisticated than mine: I use rubber bands rather than clamps, and just an iron ladle!
  24. druxey
    Usual measurement quoted was 3' 0" - whatever that converts to in metric!
  25. druxey
    Those are the Rolls Royce of ducks, Michael! No plain cast lead for you.

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