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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Is the drawing an 'as designed', 'as built' or ' as altered'? Or is there no clue on the drawing as to which of these it might be?
  2. druxey
    All the frames, etc., are fully lofted on the plan set, Alessandro.
  3. druxey
    What calibre, date and length are the cannons you are looking for?
  4. druxey
    Alas, Jan!
  5. druxey
    The author will be giving a talk on this fireship at the upcoming NRG Conference as well.
  6. druxey
    You will still need to check fairness with some buttock lines and proof diagonals, Alan.
  7. druxey
    I agree: contemporary models show these also in white.
  8. druxey
    Never buy a cheapie. It's a snare and delusion. You'll never regret getting a quality tool, be it machine or hand tool.
  9. druxey
    Best wishes as you seek a new job, Doris. The model(s) look lovely.
  10. druxey
    18th century plank lengths were generally 24' 0" to 28' 0".
  11. druxey
    I wonder how many tons of iron were used in the real ship for all those bolts? Beautifully executed as usual, Ed.
  12. druxey
    Impressive record, Garward. Congratulations and well done!
  13. druxey
    Never mind the advertisement 'Guard the Vital Zone' on page 99! Ah, those far off days of 1932 with all those tobacco ads.....
  14. druxey
    Are you referring to Turner's sketch in the Tate Gallery ("The Victory, from quarter deck to poop", 1805)? It can be seen on the Tate Gallery site.
  15. druxey
    Usually a little more: 12" to 15" is the range.
  16. druxey
    Jewelers' supply houses carry a full range of metal chemical colorants.
  17. druxey
    Most modern texts don't deal with this issue at all, and it is not well described in primary sources.
  18. druxey
    There has been much discussion on where the taper begins. In a large scale model it will be apparent if the keel is not tapered: the stern post will be too wide at the bottom, and the fore end of the gripe (lowest part of the stem timbers) will appear too 'fat'. I taper my models' keels starting where the cant frames (those that are placed at varying angles to the keel) commence fore and aft. May I recommend you read some books on the ships of the era you are interested in?
  19. druxey
    This has been discussed many times before on MSW. My take is that ebony is a beautiful specie to use - on furniture, not models. As mentioned by many, it doesn't bend easily, does not glue well, dust is nasty and toxic to some folk... need I go on? Ebonising is most easily accomplished by wood or leather dye. I find the latter works well for me. After painting the shaped and sanded piece with dye, I buff the finish with a paper towel and I'm done. Pear, holly or Costello all take dye well.
  20. druxey
    The laser cutter Cheerful? Have fun getting this project launched, Chuck!
  21. druxey
    I've always found buttock lines and diagonals more helpful than waterlines at the stern, frankly.
  22. druxey
    Oh, the suspense, Alan! Did you achieve a break-through or not????
  23. druxey
    Part of the problem both of you gentlemen may be facing is relying too much on station sections so far aft. You can'r assume their accuracy here. The contours change very rapidly as seen in vertical section. I'd rely far more on waterlines (aka transom shapes), buttock lines and proof diagonals to fair things up.
  24. druxey
    Ha! I think he's almost got it. There appears to be a small suspect area remaining just below the corner of the wing transom. The outermost buttock line looks as if the bend there is a bit too sharp. You might want to review that. Full marks for persistence, Alan.
  25. druxey
    That is an interesting question! Would the three planks have been put together with tongue-and-groove joints? If not, then your suggestion makes sense. It would make more sense if the battens ran next to the frame. Then the scuttle would run smoothly without twisting.

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