druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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He looks a little cool! Is his posture a little round-shouldered for a soldier? Thanks for posting this simulation in progress. It's interesting to see.
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Longridge simplified his deck treenailing, I believe. In reality, wood plugs were used over nails and the grain matched that of the deck, so were virtually invisible. At 1:100 scale, I'd leave them off.
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Bee-utiful work, Ed! Were there lockers or storage in the stern behind the semi-circular panelling either side of the rudderahead? I would imagine ever inch of useable space to be taken advantage of.- 3,607 replies
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One possible way to minimize seasonal movement is to do the structural work in the winter (low humidity) season. In the higher humidity of summer, the wood may expand slightly, but there will be no cracks or gaps. Reverse this sequence, and any movement problem will be magnified.
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Bee-utiful, Michael! A set of reamers are very useful to have in the shop.
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Your striding captain is terrific. Now add the extra complexity of a moving deck beneath his feet!
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Shouldn't have that much dross on top, Mark. All pewter will have a thin scum that should be flicked off with a wooden stir stick just before pouring. Leaving the master inside the RTV while casting the outer plaster jacket is a good idea. I've used 1:1 RTV rubber without an issue.
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You are now under way, I see. Good stuff! A rubber cement eraser is easier to use than the regular pencil eraser: it's a piece of crepe rubber. For next time around: Usually black paper is glued to one side of the joint with the glue spread on the wood surface. Then the paper (dry) is laid onto the wet glue, pressed down and allowed to set. Then the joint pieces are glued together. As you discovered, wet paper has no strength at all. Alternatively, color the glue with powdered pigment. I'm not sure if Gorilla glue is a good one to use, as it foams out from the joints. White or yellow carpenter's glue is best and easiest to clean up with a damp brush or rag before it sets.
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Looking good, Ben. I see you have included the fillings up to the floor heads. Nice.
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Is the 'brown sludge' you describe dross that rises to the top of the molten metal? This oxidation product needs to be skimmed off before pouring. The metal you pour should look bright and shiny, like liquid mercury. I skim the surface of the metal with a wooden stir stick before each pour. A quick flick gets rid of it. The mould will brown slightly after a time, but there should not be any build-up of anything in it.
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Excellent!
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Thinking Things Through - French Frigates
druxey replied to mtaylor's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I believe you are correct in suspecting Hahn: he stylized many things in his models, by his own admission. -
ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
druxey replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Impressively detailed 'smithing', Rekon! -
Well, the best method would be not to use tacks through your planks, but it's a bit late for that advice now! See other build logs for different methods of temporarily holding planks. If the wood is fairly soft, you may be able to use water to swell the grain and close the holes that way. Use a small paint brush and dab water just into each hole. It will probably take several rounds to close the hole up. Once closed, the wood will need a very light sanding, as you will have raised the grain. If this fails to work, you may need to use some wood filler.
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Deck planking in the time of Victory would have been 10" to 12" wide. It was in lengths of 24' 0" to 28' 0" with butts sitting on a beam. You will need to know where the beams are located. C. N. Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships will be a good guide for you. It has extensive illustrations, of the ship, plans and text. Have fun!
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Well, you made me smile on two counts: one being news on Judy's recovery, and the other on the progress photos you've posted.
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The rotary disc didn't catch the corners of any of the plates? I'm impressed! The cabin joinery looks terrific, Ed!
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Congratulations on your third anniversary!
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Yes, the same John Harland. He is very active, in his 90's now, and still turning out papers!
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The development of carronade slides is an avenue of research all its own. I recently needed to find details of an early form of slide and found a plethora of different design variations as the Admiralty and Woolwich Arsenal (not the football team!) tried to work out the snags. One of the best sources (you may need to get this through library loan, as copies are rare) is Adrian Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, 1523-1875, Volume II, The Age of the System, 1715-1815.
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The 'light in the bulwark' is a ventilation scuttle. These were fitted with an outward opening lid that had a 'U' hinge mounted sideways. There was one to each cabin. However, these were not shown on any draught that I've seen, only in some contemporary illustrations and paintings. The date of 1809 in your illustration shows that iron knees were already in common use.
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Courage, Alan, courage! Worry will simply render you immobile. Jump right on in. Mistakes - and there will be some, no matter how experienced you are - are usually correctable. Isopropyl alcohol (for dissolving glue, not for consumption!), ingenuity and patience are your friends, in addition to your friends on this site.
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I note that a copy of this sought-after book is currently (15.3.2015) on eBay, item 181691089966
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I second Patrick's remarks, Michael!
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