druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well, you are a prolific modelmaker, with time for pysanky as well! Nice work on the pintles and straps, Toni. -
Don't try to clean up the curve with the stem yet, or glue up all the knee of the head components! Make and glue up the stem pieces and keel first, then fit each individual piece of the knee of the head to the stem. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy and overflow your scrap box.
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This is brilliant, Kurt! I've been putting off inventory of my library for a long time. I guess there's no more excuses now.... Thanks for the link.
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Lovely bit of miniature machining, wefalck!
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Proxxon compound table -- Opinions?
druxey replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've had no problem with the Proxxon table, which I've been using for several years. Yes, the hand wheels are a bit small in 'throw' and not the most comfortable such as on my watchmakers' cross-slide, but they are useable. I placed a dot of red paint on the '0' of the hand wheels and yellow at the '5', which makes life much easier when counting off turns and decimal fractions of a turn. -
So...the sawdust commences. Good stuff, Alan.
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Very, very neatly and cleverly done, toly.kol!
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I'm smiling as I look and read your log, Ed - yet again.
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In the Bellona model photo, the pawls are on the upper capstan head. In the Science Museum Ajax lower deck photo, does this imply that the fore capstan had pawls only on the upper capstan, while the lower fore capstan was fitted with long pawls? (In a photo of the NMM model of Ajax, one can see the pawls on the fore upper capstan.) This is becoming an intriguing thread!
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I believe that the pawls were only on the upper capstan, Siggi. This is the case on the contemporary model of Princess Royal, 1773. (Legacy of a Ship Model by Rob Napier, page 75.)
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I agree with your short pawl version, Siggi. I've seen many contemporary models with pawls similar or identical to the ones in the photo you've posted. They are on the upper deck partners.
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Once again, beautiful, clean detail. That is one lovely model, Alex!
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Tips on carving? One, Bill Short's book on rotary tool carving methods. Two, Doris' Royal Caroline log here on MSW shows clay sculpting. Three, The Fully Framed Model, Volume II, has a section on carving using hand tools on wood.
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I use a propane torch over a cast iron ladle. Cutting the pewter ingot into smaller pieces and using a small quantity speeds things up. RTV rubber is quite soft, so I recommend an outer plaster retaining jacket to prevent distortion of the casting or leakage between the mould halves. Don't forget to make the vent channels through the plaster continuous with the RTV mould. Please make sure the plaster is completely dry before casting, for safety's sake!
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When I cast (in pewter) I made the mold muzzle up, with relieving vents at the trunnions. I made sure that the pouring vent was large. This helped filling and also provided mass, so that the metal would not solidify before filling the mold. In addition I talcum-powdered the mold to improve metal flow. The first few pours were defective (possibly the RTV mold needed to 'mature'), but after that everything worked perfectly.
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Just discovered this thread: fascinating presentation idea!
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Looks pretty convincing to me! Nicely adjusted. Small point: make sure that the lips of the scarphs in the stem are wider than the rabbet.
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My preferred method is to cut small slices of copper or softened brass tube. Then I flare both sides on a hard block using a center punch. Finally, I chemically blacken the thimbles.
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Very neatly done, Toni. I believe that in real life the rudder sole was higher and angled a bit to ensure it wouldn't snag if the ship touched ground. Your call, of course.
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Brilliant! I don't know of many modellers who would go to the trouble and detail of installing hammock battens. I suppose there will be hammocks as well?
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Unfortunately, Victory's weather decks have been re-laid many, many times. What you see today is very late 20th century and far from original.
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Nicely demonstrated, Chuck.
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Ha! You did it! You made your own tap. Well done, Michael.
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Pen Duick 1898 by Mfelinger - 1:20
druxey replied to Mfelinger's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Very neatly done! That is a beautiful deck.
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