Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
druxey
-
Posts
13,135 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Ah... the missing word acrylic gouache! Traditional gouache is simply opaque water-colour and the binder (gum arabic) is readily resoluble in water. Acrylic binder is not. That is why I was confused. Thanks, Ed.- 3,618 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks for your explanation, Ed. Does gouache, being water soluble, not dissolve as you apply acrylic paint over it?
- 3,618 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
I must agree with Gaetan. The scalpel blade is designed only for fine, light work. Many modelmakers use X-acto blades for carving - a mistake, in my opinion. Purpose-made micro carving tools, designed for that job, will give far better service and results in wood. I use #11 surgical blades for cutting card patterns, trimming rigging and other work of that nature.
- 728 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- le fleuron
- 64 gun
- (and 1 more)
-
The use of cherry is an aesthetic choice - yours, in this case, Gaetan. It sounds as if that judge had a preconceived notion of the 'correct' wood to use, which apparently wasn't cherry! I don't use cherry myself, but love your choice of doing so on this model. So there!
- 728 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- le fleuron
- 64 gun
- (and 1 more)
-
Ed, could you please explain your rationale for using gouache as a primer? Thanks!
- 3,618 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
Coming along nicely, Toni. Good move to make the step functional in case you want to mount a bowsprit or even rig your model. As far as scupper holes are concerned, if you are in fear and doubt, drill blind holes both from inside and out. Drill undersize and gradually open the holes out to spec.
-
It's interesting to see that there is torsion between the hearts on actual examples and contemporary models; it's always bothered me that exactly the same thing happens with my rigging!
-
Looks very nice, but you might wish to coat the lead with lacquer. This will prevent deterioration into lead salts from contact with air later on.
-
I think you have it (clothes) pegged as well as nailed! Your 'messy' c/b is most other folk's neat, Vaddoc. And as far as the skin is concerned, it's always better to have wood to remove rather than have too little!
-
I know that the original image is an NMM historic watercolour. My point is that even 'historic' evidence needs to be questioned.
-
Impressive work at any scale, never mind so small!
-
Sorry Siggi, that wasn't intended as a joke. It was a serious suggestion. There are other examples of different arrangements during time of war, such as snaking between the stays and preventer stays, which was not the case in times of peace. However, I agree what I wrote was a 'vielleicht' rather than 'sicher'! I always hope that someone else can give a definite example to either confirm or deny a theory. Even historic information can be misleading. The example of the cabin you posted probably looked more like my modified version!
-
Once again, I'm smiling at the photos of your work. Beautiful.
- 3,618 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
Perhaps those cabins were a peace-time arrangement, with some of the armament removed.
-
Welcome back, Bill. Good to see you getting going again!
-
For a ship that size, I think the hawse holes would have a diameter of about 27cm to 30cm. Is that close to what your plans show?
-
Thanks for this url, Wayne. I'd come across Judichaer's name a number of times and it was interesting to read about his life and career. The examination and analysis of the model was also fascinating.
-
The hawse hole size is related to the anchor cable size. That, in turn, is related to the size of the ship. Perhaps if you can tell us the known factors, one can calculate or estimate the unknown in this case. Glad you figured out the circle/ellipse paradox!
-
One usually pulls on an oar as one faces toward the stern. It seems to me that the illustration is correct, but not the model.
-
They are - or ought to be - circular. Depending on the angle of your viewing a hawse, it may look circular or elliptical. Remember that not only does the hole appear on an angled surface, but the hole itself is usually drilled at an angle. It lies at a downward angle as it goes outboard, and its path was also often slightly curved.
-
Looking good,Toni!
-
Terrific, Michael. Working spark plugs! Who else would have thought of it? Sorry to read of your wife's health issues. I hope things will continue to improve for her. I'm sure it's a stressful time for you. Best wishes.
-
HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking beautiful, Albert! -
Seeking information on determining load waterline
druxey replied to trippwj's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Wayne, do you have a copy of Ships and Science by Larrie D. Ferreiro? There is great discussion on the evolution of naval architecture in Europe and England during the scientific revolution in the time period 1600 to 1800. The content of this book is germaine to your enquiry. -
A variant of this technique that I've used is to take a piece of round stock. Drill out one end, then shape the hole to square or oblong as needed and put it in the collet or chuck.
Our Emblem ®
