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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Never mind the advertisement 'Guard the Vital Zone' on page 99! Ah, those far off days of 1932 with all those tobacco ads.....
  2. druxey
    Are you referring to Turner's sketch in the Tate Gallery ("The Victory, from quarter deck to poop", 1805)? It can be seen on the Tate Gallery site.
  3. druxey
    Usually a little more: 12" to 15" is the range.
  4. druxey
    Jewelers' supply houses carry a full range of metal chemical colorants.
  5. druxey
    Most modern texts don't deal with this issue at all, and it is not well described in primary sources.
  6. druxey
    There has been much discussion on where the taper begins. In a large scale model it will be apparent if the keel is not tapered: the stern post will be too wide at the bottom, and the fore end of the gripe (lowest part of the stem timbers) will appear too 'fat'. I taper my models' keels starting where the cant frames (those that are placed at varying angles to the keel) commence fore and aft. May I recommend you read some books on the ships of the era you are interested in?
  7. druxey
    This has been discussed many times before on MSW. My take is that ebony is a beautiful specie to use - on furniture, not models. As mentioned by many, it doesn't bend easily, does not glue well, dust is nasty and toxic to some folk... need I go on? Ebonising is most easily accomplished by wood or leather dye. I find the latter works well for me. After painting the shaped and sanded piece with dye, I buff the finish with a paper towel and I'm done. Pear, holly or Costello all take dye well.
  8. druxey
    The laser cutter Cheerful? Have fun getting this project launched, Chuck!
  9. druxey
    I've always found buttock lines and diagonals more helpful than waterlines at the stern, frankly.
  10. druxey
    Oh, the suspense, Alan! Did you achieve a break-through or not????
  11. druxey
    Part of the problem both of you gentlemen may be facing is relying too much on station sections so far aft. You can'r assume their accuracy here. The contours change very rapidly as seen in vertical section. I'd rely far more on waterlines (aka transom shapes), buttock lines and proof diagonals to fair things up.
  12. druxey
    Ha! I think he's almost got it. There appears to be a small suspect area remaining just below the corner of the wing transom. The outermost buttock line looks as if the bend there is a bit too sharp. You might want to review that. Full marks for persistence, Alan.
  13. druxey
    That is an interesting question! Would the three planks have been put together with tongue-and-groove joints? If not, then your suggestion makes sense. It would make more sense if the battens ran next to the frame. Then the scuttle would run smoothly without twisting.
  14. druxey
    Looking respectable, Ben!
  15. druxey
    Yes, Mike, the second volume is a continuation from Volume I to the completion of the hull and deck fittings. Volume III is a photo-essay showing Greg Herbert's excellent build of a Swan class model hull. Volume IV covers the masts, yards and rigging, including rigging and belaying plans.
  16. druxey
    Hmm. More anomalies.... Well, no-one is perfect!
  17. druxey
    Then either the draftsman forgot to draw the openings on the deck plan or the deck planks are removable. That the planks are moveable is less likely, as the beams would be rebated to take the plank ends. I think that those two pairs of short lines in the deck plank between the beams show moveable square covers.
  18. druxey
    Is there either a scuttle in one of the bulkheads, or do those short lines in the deck above indicate small hatch openings?
  19. druxey
    AOTS series often contain errors, unfortunately. The planking pattern you show is one example. The second version is correct. If the first layout were actually used, once one butt gave way, the rest would follow like a zipper. (This particularly applies to hull planking). The second, staggered pattern minimizes this possibility and is much stronger.
  20. druxey
    I'm sorry also to read of your friends' passings. In troubled times, model making is good therapy. Congratulations on your children's successes, though.
  21. druxey
    Very clever adaptation of conventional photo-etching, Don! I wonder how small you can go using this process. Have you experimented with that?
  22. druxey
    If you haven't already done so, look at dealing with a bluff bow planking job as seen in David Antscherl's planking tutorial on this site.
  23. druxey
    A Spanish windlass arrangement, perhaps? It would have been the simplest method for applying torque to the hypozomata.
  24. druxey
    You need a tissue that will stand up to wetting without disintegrating. Also, shiny would be distracting, I think.
  25. druxey
    You figurehead might look like Kermit to you, Omega, but at that scale the overall effect or impression is what matters. In this case, the effect looks very good.

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