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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I like your frame 'hold-down' device. Are the larger cross-pieces above and below the frame fixed or are they movable?
  2. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Mario. Looks like the real thing now!
  3. druxey
    Your mention of Munchausen's ducks made me smile. Nice examples of serving you have there as well.
  4. druxey
    It's better not to harden line (rope) if you are then going to spin it up into cable.
  5. druxey
    Nice to see the replay of your progress!
  6. druxey
    I assume that the extensions are there only for long pieces of stock, Gaetan? Nice microphotographs, too. Is there anything that you are not expert at?
  7. druxey
    Those really are lovely looking blocks, Remco.
  8. druxey
    The 'right answer' would take up several chapters of a book! Probably the best short answer is to look a Ed T's build log of Naiad. You will see how complex this is. The only short answer is to the question of plank length. Standard lengths in the 18th century British yards were either 24' 0", 26' 0" or 28' 0". The butts were staggered or offset from the outside planking for maximum strength.
  9. druxey
    A proper 'hook' on the scraper's edge is critical to using this tool. I also file off the corners of my scrapers so that 'dig in' is avoided. Check the url that Richard has kindly provided.
  10. druxey
    Properly laid line, hardened, should not unravel when cut. The opposing torque in the strands/threads/rope should cancel each other out and provide a 'balanced' line.
  11. druxey
    The crossjack is indeed a yard, but one not set with a sail.
  12. druxey
    This is one you will need to chalk up to experience, I'm afraid. The upside of this will be that the re-do will be better than the original work - it always is! I had to remove some port lids today that were sub-standard. Revision happens to all of us!
  13. druxey
    Now that inclined plane for planing is a neat idea! Thanks for sharing the idea. That Nielsen plane looks like a nice bit of kit, too. The scores on your whelps look great. Nice work - as usual, Mark.
  14. druxey
    I absolutely agree, Patrick!
  15. druxey
    And don't forget, these old-time model makers had no power saws, mills or other machine tools to produce these masterpieces!
  16. druxey
    Seeing your work again is a nice reminder of how high a standard you work to, Ed. You almost make that tricky stern framing look easy!
  17. druxey
    Looks like you are good and ready for action next weekend!
  18. druxey
    Gutermann cotton thread is a good possibility to consider, as quality linen thread becomes harder to find.
  19. druxey
    Beeswax has been identified as being slightly acidic, which is not good for the lines in the long run. Conservators' wax, which is pH neutral, might be a better choice.
  20. druxey
    Ron: to keep your chisels in top-notch shape, get the Lee Valley Stone Pond and sharpening guide with a couple of water stones.
  21. druxey
    Good to see you back again, Sailcat. Thanks for re-posting your meticulous re-working of this model.
  22. druxey
    Good to see you and your fine work back on this forum!
  23. druxey
    Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model details all this for you, if you have a copy.
  24. druxey
    Allanyed's response is a good one. A very sharp pencil (hard lead is best) and accurate mark-out are the critical parts of the operation, as well as a sharp chisel. By the way 'scarph' is the correct spelling; 'scarf' is the thing you put around your neck to stay warm!
  25. druxey
    Thanks for coming back, Doris. Your paper/card models are amazing.

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