druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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That's the general idea, Toni. There would also be sacrificial blocks of wood on the rail to protect it. However, there is one drawback: it would be tricky to get the anchor past the fore channel, deadeyes and laniards. I think that the chain would be secured to an eyebolt inside the bulwark with a hook on the 'free' end that engages a second eyebolt inside. Call in the Time Machine to be really sure! -
Nice castings and finish, Toni! There may well have been a shankpainter chain used to secure the anchor, rather than the anchor lovingly hugging the swivel mount. It would be about in line with the aft end of the billboard/lining. This would raise the anchor shank parallel to the rail and the stock should then clear the water.
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Welcome, Jack, from another Ontarian.
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While your clamping process will work, I still prefer a plaster outer jacket for stability of the mold - especially during a 'pour'!
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Terrifying Velocity, perhaps. Perhaps not, Waldemar....
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Is that not 'T V'?
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Those 48 pounders are shock and awe pieces!
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There are two versions of this book. The earlier edition gives both French and Dutch practice as well as English, but the later one covers only English rigging.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Do read (or re-read) the planking primers on this site! They explain and show you how to do this really well.
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- Planking
- Lining out
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Lovely and delicate looking, Greg. Are you going to lash the burton pendants to the shrouds?
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Absolutely delightful, Ab and Emiel! Thank you for sharing these. A limited edition book would be great.
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I agree with Marc that, for fine work, breath control is essential. It's a very zen and highly focussed exercise. A really good quality sable brush that 'points' well is another ingredient for success. Oh, yes, and patience!
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- heller
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Just remember to make a left and right, not two of the same! Well done so far.
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Looks terrific! Well done, Bob. Please make sure she gets a protective case now, she's worth it.
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- Harriet Lane
- Model Shipways
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Traditionally decks were nailed and the heads countersunk. The hole above was filled with a diamond shaped or round wood plug, grain running the same way as the planking. As a result it is not very visible. Side and bottom planking treenails are far more obvious. My personal preference is no treenails in deck planks, although many models have them.
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The most impressive model of her that I saw as a child was this one by I. W. Marsh: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66011
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Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander Operation Tips
druxey replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The most likely reason for the groove is that the tip end of the plank drops as it comes off the outfeed table. Two solutions: One, hold the outfed plank close to the lip of the outfeed table, not its far end. Two, construct an extension to the outfeed side to support longer stock. -
Oooh! You didn't mention scale, Allan! 1:196 is certainly a very different proposition. Photoetch, perhaps?
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As you are using card, why not paper sails as well? Many model-makers use SilkSpan with great success.
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Generally panes were no larger than about 9" by 12". Some contemporary models show sashes as well, just to up the game. You can see tis in one of the photos you posted. If you are building at 1:48, you should be able to use 1/64" square Castello or similar to form the dividing muntins. The trick is an accurate card pattern of each light from which to work. One method is shown in TFFM, Volume II. Cuttigng and gluing wood will be easier than wire!
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It will be next year, I understand. Well worth waiting for!
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Also: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-388866
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