druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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The depth marks were each 6" high and 6" apart, so you could eyeball the waterline to within an inch or so. The base of each number was the depth in feet. I believe that they were either carved in and painted (late 1700's and early 1800's) or cut from lead (pre copper plating days!), then of copper thereafter.
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That is superb, Valeriy! How did you manage to cut the glass lens to shape? Or did you grind it? -
A sanding of the first coat of primer will show up any minor defects, as you've found out, but the final primer coat should not need sanding. Your hull is looking very good now.
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- Harriet Lane
- Model Shipways
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Would this be an example of Cunningham's reefing topsail? See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68645
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International shipping solution found? Brilliant! Well done, Mike.
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Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nicely done, Toni! Does this wrap up the project? -
Working drawers as well???? Amazing!
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That looks terrific, Rob!
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Looks a little like a centipede at the moment!
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You are climbing the learning curve now! Did you heat soften the brass before trying to drill it?
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Eye candy! Beautiful photography and close-ups of details of this exceptional model.
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In case you missed the news, SeaWatchBooks is open again under new ownership. You don't have to pay inflated prices for their books any more!
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Welcome back, Michael!
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Intriguing detail. Why would one wish to cant the mast forward at all, I wonder? The model is looking great, Clare.
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Oh, dear. You have it bad. Fortunately there is no model intervention or recovery group in your area.
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Bruce and Gary: there is no credit, which leads me to believe that the draught is actually in the Kriegstein Collection!
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It seems Queen was a 'one off' Bately design, so there are no sister ships whose plans might be viewable. If the RMG (ex NMM) can't help, perhaps an enquiry to the Kriegstein brothers through their publisher might work.
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Lovely work and attention to detail, Michael!
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Old paint is usually oil based, and may contain lead. Be careful and take appropriate health and safely measures if removing any paint.
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Harold Hahn method
druxey replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
"Chacun à son gôut" - Each to their own taste. We build models to please ourselves. There is no absolute right or wrong. -
Consider using tick strips and divide the space with the strip laid flat - it's a lot easier! I gave up using compasses, dividers and proportional dividers years ago. Also, thread attached with white glue dots instead of battens are much, much easier to use. Check the planking tutorials on this site. for details.
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Good thinking ahead, Maury!
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Normally beams rest on the deck clamps. These are ledges that run longitudinally inside the frames. Beams are placed where needed to frame deck openings etc., and are independent of the framing. I recommend you look at either Londgridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War 1650 -1850, or the series of books on the fully framed model by Antscherl.
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A very nice model indeed. Maybe Chris would like to tackle a Thames barge sometime.
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- well smack
- Vanguard Models
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