druxey

Well, the fact that you built and finished three models very nicely says a lot about you! Many beginners never even finish one model. Well done.

Basswood can be 'undented' by repeated application of water using a brush just in the depressed area. The wood fibers re-expand with moisture. Lightly sand when fully dry.

Terrific detail work, Keith.

In the late 18th century, contracts were indeed 'boilerplate'; printed forms with spaces to insert specific dimensions and details.

There are indeed some extremely talented lady ship modelers here. (Look up Toni and Doris!) Although we cannot possibly replace your father, we can provide hints and help when requested. You'll find this a very supportive community, Welcome aboard!

For quoting brief excerpts from others' work, with a citation, falls within the 'fair use' clause, I believe.

Just found this interesting thread. The handwriting and ink splotches on the log page attest to rough weather! I take my hat off to you, George, for being able to decipher and transcribe that writing.

Another landmark day! Have fun fairing up tomorrow.

Welcome back, Mark! I hope that you feel fully recovered. Steel's text (page 54, Naval Architecture) reads: RAILS. The long narrow pieces of fir or oak, with mouldings struck on them, which are fastened, or sometimes wrought from solid plank, as ornaments to the ship's sides, and also at the head or stern. The principal are as follows: The lower rail on the side, named the Waist-rail; and the next above it, the Sheer-rail, which are generally placed well with the sheer or top-timber line; the rails next above the Sheer-rail are called Drift-Rails, and the rails above the plank-sheer the Fife-rails.... In the list of errata at the back of the book (unnumbered page) there is no mention of any correction to this entry.

Bending and fitting those coamings is a tricky business, but it looks as if you've done a great job on them, Dan. Some filler is often necessary!

One plank at a time is the best strategy! Line the clamp/clothes peg with scraps of sandpaper as a non-slip option.

For years I've been using a standard vertical canister style shop vac. It has worked well, but the noise level when running for any length of time in my small workshop has been excessive. Currently I'm cutting a lot of wood and thicknessing it for framing and realized that something had to change. I'd looked at the Lee Valley website a number of times and saw Fein shop vacuums, but the $CAN1,000 plus price tags were far more than I wanted to pay for a quieter vacuum. A new, portable model at about half the price has just been introduced and I picked one up yesterday. What a difference! This model, the CT 15 E HEPA, is quite sophisticated and is rated at about 70dB. One can couple it with machine tools to switch on simultaneously if one wishes (the device to do this is extra) but I found manual start was just fine. There is an additional electrical outlet on the front of the unit as well. It filters particles down to 3 microns (hence HEPA). Bags are either the disposable type, or there is a more expensive re-useable option available. Capacity of this small unit is 15 liters. The unit can be converted to a wet-vac by changing the filter. In addition, the suction can be electronically controlled to 4 different levels. There is an overload cut-out that operates when the bag is full. The bag has a closure device for removing it without producing a cloud of dust - clever. The unit comes with a long hose of narrower diameter than standard N. American units at about 1⅜" external diameter. An adaptor may be needed. The unit includes a crevice nozzle and small floor brush in the top storage compartment. A wide range of add-ons is also available. This unit was designed for portable on-the-job use, but is great for a small workshop. If you have a large workshop with a lot of full-size machine tools, I would suggest you consider one of the company's larger and more expensive models. I have no connection with Festool other than as a customer of the supplier, Lee Valley Tools.

Methodical and overthinking ain't a bad thing in ship model making!

Looking good so far, Gary. Water will work just as well as alcohol for bending basswood planking. Cheaper, too!

Looking good, Salty. If you used the flexible stick by rubbing it across the frames rather than along them it would stress them less. Try that next time.

Certainly a belt-and-braces approach that I've used in the past!

That worked out very well, Michael. Looking good.

So many moving parts! If I may observe, your drafted row of lights look just a tad 'off' in the photos. The central mullion is vertical, as it should be, but the ones immediately to port and starboard seem to cant inward a little too much. Perhaps this is an optical illusion? Every model involves a little compromise here and there, and you seem to have solved most of the problems that you identified really well.

Even better than masking tape (if you go that route) is 3M matt finish removable tape. It has a slightly frosted surface that you can see through and it takes a pencil line really well.

DrMB: I only saw this post by accident. You'll get quicker replies if you start your own build log. See you over there!

And looking good as well, Michael!

This is the wonderful part of a community like MSW; folk helping each other out. Kudos to Henry!

When you fair the frames (sand gently!) it should take care of things.

I've used limewood in the past. It is very nice to work and carves well. (Grinling Gibbons' work was mainly in lime.) I found it a little soft, so one has to work carefully in order not to accidentally mark or dent it. It's certainly a little harder than basswood, a close cousin. Try it: I think you'll like it.

Nice start! Will you be milling templates for every frame?