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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I was afraid you'd puncture the inflatable with those pins! Even unpainted, the effect is very convincing.
  2. If you need really thin cotton line, untwist the three strands of thread, wet and hang to dry with a small weight.
  3. The other possibility is using computer graphics, printed out on very thin paper then glued on.
  4. With all due respect, the rabbet on the wing transom should not be anywhere as deep, if a rabbet is required. It should only be the depth of the thickness of the bottom plank.( By contrast English ships did not have a rabbet there; the planks attached to the aft face of the wing transom.)
  5. In addition to Mark's great reply: A round tuck was better in a following sea: the stern would tend to part the wave and lift the ship, whereas a square tuck would receive a heavy impact.
  6. I agree with Mark. Some captains requested carronades, so individual ships' armament would have varied.
  7. The tuck is the upper part of the lower hull at the stern. It can be flat, with a kind of wineglass shape (a square tuck) or rounded with the bottom planking curving diagonally up to meet the wing transom (a round tuck). This part of the lower hull is also referred to as the buttock. A transom is the flat aft end of an open boat, also wine glass shaped. Above the wing transom in both cases is a usually concave section in profile. projecting aft through which the rudder passes. This is the counter or, in large ships, the lower counter. In the latter case there is also a more vertical and usually slightly concave upper counter. The uppermost portion of the stern, often decorative, is the tafferel or taffrail.
  8. If the gap is minimal, I wouldn't worry. On the other hand, if it bothers you...
  9. Nice to see you back Dan. If I might ask, what is the advantage of Plaster of Paris over gesso for getting a nice smooth, sealed surface? One does not have to mix gesso. and 'open time' is longer!
  10. Love the Cutty model with her jury-rigged rudder! Great presentation.
  11. So much eye candy all in one posting!! Too much1 Just lovely, although - if I may say this - the horse head profiles should have the bump along the middle of the nose profile reduced just a little; they look a bit moose-like at present.
  12. Aiee! Using synthetic line for those martnets must drive you to distraction. Also making those minute sister blocks.... Impressive.
  13. These support posts varied on different contemporary models. I've seen iron ones with an upright post supported by a curved bracket down from the top to the hatch coaming inboard.
  14. You did a very neat job of the internal planking around the stern, Bob. That is tricky!
  15. Yes, I agree with the other comments; your model is coming along well. Remember, only you are likely to know where a 'mistake' was made!
  16. Further to Phil's (Dr.PR) post: The direction the laniard is reeved through the deadeyes can either increase or reduce the tendency to twist. This is important if you are modeling a ship in the pre-sheerpole era!
  17. That is a lovely job you have done!
  18. Looking fabulous. Belaying those lines must be tricky in those confined spaces.
  19. Again, real wood will change appearance with weathering, age and other wear and tear. If you wish to imitate 'real world' wood, you need to study photographs and imitate the results with paint. There are some amazing examples on this site. For instance: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20162-new-england-stonington-dragger-by-friedclams-finished-148-pob/page/13/
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