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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Looks nice and clean now!
  2. druxey
    Examples of wooden pin in the Royal Museums Greenwich collection range from 43 to 49 cm (17" to 19") in length and 4 to 5 cm (1 1/2" to 2") in maximum diameter.
  3. druxey
    Just checking out your work so far, Håkan. Beautifully done. Glad to know that this will be continued.
  4. druxey
    Hopefully the bulkhead bracing will keep the hull straight.
  5. druxey
    Condolences on this, Alan. As the others said Mark II will probably go quicker and be better than the Mark I version.
  6. druxey
    Glad one can still view the inside of your boat. Well done! By the way, it seems we share a birthday: 29.10 - except I'm a few years older than you. Happy birthday!
  7. druxey
    I love to see models of unusual subjects! This is an interesting one.
  8. druxey
    Tomorrow is already here!Pparts that are 3D printed are really high resolution now, but items such as carved work lack a certain 'life' and look too perfect.
  9. druxey
    I simply use a coffee mug warmer as not a large container is needed for model parts.
  10. druxey
    Lovely but, as someone else pointed out, the water drainage holes in the spritsail are still needed.
  11. druxey
    I usually dip the parts in water after Sparex before blackening. You don't want to contaminate the blackening agent! (Acetone shouldnot be necessary unless you touch the parts between steps in processing.)
  12. druxey
    Different chemicals are involved for blackening pewter than for brass/copper. For pewter selenious acid, for copper or brass one of several sulphur compounds. Diluting the solution slows the chemical reaction and produces a thinner and more stable surface layer.
  13. druxey
    Photoetch might be a better solution.
  14. druxey
    Buttock lines are simply vertical waterlines. (Not a situation one would desire in practice!) Also, incomplete data is so frustrating....
  15. druxey
    Well done, Chris. A lovely trio. Now you are ready for Alert!
  16. druxey
    I feel your pain with just fragments of information and then having to plunge into a deep pool of speculation. I imagine your best guess will be pretty good, though!
  17. druxey
    There are two methods, as you describe, either 3 to 2 or 2 to 1, depending on the degree of reduction (or increase) in width required in the situation.
  18. druxey
    Card patterns are the key here!
  19. druxey
    I've used battens in the past, but find that black thread works really well for me. Applied with spots of PVA (white glue) it is easy to moisten a finger and roll the thead up or down as required until all runs smooth and fair. Also, it's really cheap!
  20. druxey
    The translucency of the sails in 'sunlight' is very impressive!
  21. druxey
    Are you referring to the fish davit? It can be mounted port or starboard as required. See TFFM, 12.7 to 12.9.
  22. druxey
    Actually, one has better control using a larger tool. You will file across the transom rather than along it. (For model work I usually use a ½" bevel edge chisel - or larger - a lot of the time. One can judge angles more easily than with a narrow tool.)
  23. druxey
    Fanciest skipjack I've ever seen!
  24. druxey
    Having the transom too far aft may come back to bite you. The planks may fall short at either bow or stern. I'd go for the isopropanol for a do-over. It won't hurt a bit!
  25. druxey
    Here is a diagram of a chain pump. From the inscription, it looks to be from 1772: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86580?_gl=1*guf33e*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE5NTQwMjM0MC4xNzI5NjgyNjk2*_ga_7JJ3J5DBF6*MTcyOTY4MjY5NS4xLjAuMTcyOTY4MjY5NS4wLjAuMA..*_ga_4MH5VEZTEK*MTcyOTY4MjY5NS4xLjAuMTcyOTY4MjY5NS4wLjAuM The segmented tubes (square in section on the 'down' or return side) were replacing the bored elm pipes.

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