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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. A couple of Very minor updates from today -- Added rope stays to the barrels Added shot framing to the lower gun deck (not as it should be) but done,
  2. Martyn: Thanks - ordered the Gorilla brand. Now straightening out and or slightly curving the copper plates. Glue comes Monday so looking forward to this section of the build. Patrick: Agreed the brass, non decorated barrels will look more appropriate for this build. After the coppering, will get back to getting those painted, mounted, and secured to the lower deck. Then I need to figure out the proper locations for the gun door framing, and how they connect to outer hull planking. My Vasa was all wrong (at the outer hull) -- I'm determined to get it right this time As always mates thanks for your advice, help, and just dropping by Cheers,
  3. Martyn, Super nice -- all of your extra details AND the lights make this one really special - Gongrats Regards,
  4. HI Mates, Frank: thanks for the idea. I knew about this technique, but not quite comfortable enough trying to make the strips look realistic. Denis: tried your idea. The admiral has a wooden rolling pin, I don’t think that I could push hard enough to flatten the dimples. Also the wood absorbed some of the pressure points. I got poor results. So Plan B; No longer using the pliers, one at a time instead using double sided tape and our knife sharpening stone just taping on the dimples with a hobby hammer. Much better, and faster "factory production" -- Also, since I will reverse side -- attach of the plates –dimples really need to be very flat to properly lay upon hull planks once glue is added. Hammer taps on that stone block does the trick. Not sure what glue to use will try CA Gel on a practice piece. Cheers,
  5. Dave, Just discovered your superb project - went through your build log -- Awesome work indeed !! Cheers,
  6. Hi Mates, Thanks for the welcome back and you visits. So, carriages/guns put on hold - It occurred to me that I prob. should copper the hull before adding more bits and decks. This will be my first effort. I’ve seen and followed some great builds that added plates. Of course this small, easy cross section will be a “walk in the park, compared to coppering full hulls. That said, I read a very interesting letter in the Spring 2018 Vol. 63 issue of the Nautical Research Journal. Member, Ian Poole, was commenting about how copper plates added to models are sometimes rather inaccurate looking because of the “nails issue”. He stated that available copper plates have overly large simulated copper nail indentations. He went on to state that, of course, copper plates were attached using counter sunk copper nail heads; indeed barely visible. In any case copper nails should not stand out above the plates. All for obvious reasons – So It got me thinking about how to “improve” the look of the after-market plates that I intend to add to this build. My solution. 1) Use the Model Shipways plates that I had pre-purchased. 2) Using piers flatten all the nail dimples on each plate 3) Flip the plate over and attach those to the hull with the backside facing up. This look more accurately simulates the look of counter-sunk copper nails. Here are a few preliminary photos; The new plate faces certainly looks more “realistic”. PS: Yes – lots and lots of extra time will be needed having to re-work each of the 100s of needed plates. Could be overkill?? Regards,
  7. Mark, Just catching up - as always a pleasure following your excellent work. PS: Your shot framing is so well done! Cheers,
  8. Hi Mates, Minor – catch up post – after taking some yard time off. When I started doing all of these block and carriage bits (again) – having spent five years on the Vasa – I found little motivation – almost shelved this one to bring up the Viking ship from under the table. Then – No – back into this project Still not sure about the cannons – sure like the ones with decorative markings, though not Spanish. That said the kit included ones are certainly more accurate and a bit longer as well. So would look better once installed with carriages fully forward. I think that the blocks are a bit big, though the next size down where way too small. Next bit air brushing the barrels. As always thank for still dropping by --- Cheers,
  9. Thomas, Nice belated update - You hammocks are, as well as everything else, so beautifully scaled. Brilliant work. Regards,
  10. Patrick, Just catching up. Indeed each of your postings supersedes the previous --- superb work. Your attention to period details are brilliantly executed as well. Cheers,
  11. E.J, Woa !! just as the above five members just said - Splendid. Your decision to take a risk with carving and sculpturing was indeed a good one. That is a big step forward in you skill set. Well done!! And that specific blue that you chose makes the gold really POP. Your attention to scaling that entire stern area looks brilliant as well. Cheers,
  12. FYI: Awesome build log - amazing work http://5500.forumactif.org/t2685-la-fleur-de-lis-au-1-48-par-r-courgeon
  13. Frank, found these model http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/galere/plaquette-e.htm book http://www.editions-petit-vincent.com/boutique/nos-ouvrages/monographies/la-fleur-de-lis-galere-1690/ video
  14. In fact you have also given me an idea. I just downloaded the instruction, and will look for the cross-section bits from them as well Cheers,
  15. Ronald, UK site https://www.model-space.com/gb/model-ships.html Don't know about cross-referencing instructions for this kit. For my Vasa I used several diif. sources, especially for rigging. Creativity helps. The ST is a ship that seems to have many unknown areas of reference for the original. So just enjoy adding or avoiding kit instructional perspectives. My current cross section is also a puzzle indeed. So I'm just exploring details - many of which may just be wrong.
  16. Ronald, Yes. that is indeed the case. I called them several months ago. They were not aware of when, or if it (ST) would be sold stateside. They also said that product availability does change. I also asked about their Vasa. Same reply - not available. Oooohhhh and today I went to their USA site and the Vasa IS now available to the US market. Kinda wish I had not seen that - after spending 5 years on my Corel version. That said I would, if you care to, just hold off and see what happens. That ship is a huge seller world-wide. https://www.model-space.com/us/model-ships.html PS: you could download their instruction booklets from the Euro site. https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-santisima-trinidad.html ------------------------------------------------------------- I did not know this - very nice add-on indeed The SantisimaTrinidad kit, also contains a cross-section kit, which provides an amazing close-up view of the interior workings of the Santisima Trinidad
  17. Thanks mates for all the get better thoughts. Mark - yes it will take a while -also needed to have tendon repair. The most, for a month, uncomfortable bit is having to wear that hard framed sling 24/7 precluding any unwanted movement during "sleep" haha.... Admiral is back to 100% - though she is not happy about now having to throw the trash overboard - that was my job. Ronald noted - you are, of course, still very welcomed aboard. There are several excellent full version builds of this ship here at MSW, though I'm sure that you know already.
  18. Patrick, Yes I do remember indeed. Thanks for remembering as well as noting this "how it was done". I wonder if after several shots, the barrel got too hot for the poor gunners who had to straddle these iron guns? Nice beer. Reminds me of my days living in London and enjoying a nice room temperature pint sitting outside at 10:00pm - and it still light and pleasantly warm Regards,
  19. E.J, Just catching up. Your build is really "over the top" brilliant. Your work with carvings is also very inspirational indeed. She will be an awesome build when completed !!!!
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