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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. Peter, Thanks for your kind words, advice and note. Yes indeed you are correct, trunnions were indeed part of a casting. So I needed a compromise trying to get a more realistic look. Wood looked to fill that visual void. Alternatively I had thought of ordering some after-market cannons from Chuck (he has great looking brass ones with trunnions [thought prob. not period correct for this build] - first pic). But this is such a minor detail compromise that wood it will remain. Pics of the first still not completed carriage/gun. And for all intent-and-purposes the compromise will visually disappear.... and look like part of the casting Again thank for your kind post. Regards, PS: Syren emblems came out PERFECT !!
  2. Denis, they are in fact the two loops. I needed to Google canon part names to come up with my "educated" post haha Still learning ship part names. Cheers, FYI
  3. Hi mates, Preliminary cannon barrels detail upgrades. Intended to run breech rope through center of carriage – but then decided to instead run rope to the barrel’s necks and looping - as many have done. In this case did not like the look of it (lack of proper neck) Hence the added detail needed for guns themselves. Here out-of-the-box; Also noted an Issue with kit provided brass wire –much too thin and trunnion holes were also too thin easy fix indeed Now also added detail bits to barrels. Emblems from Syren – easily curved. Just testing at this point – once barrels are air brushed emblems might look just perfect indeed. Washers were intended for the wheel axles, but did not fit -so plan "B" struck - hmmmm One issue – not crazy about the location of the gun's second reinforcing ring, my looping the dolphin over might not be correct. But it appears to be at the 50% weight of the barrel. Any suggestions mates - should I move the dolphins forward a bit – though they should be just above the rimbase – I think?? PS: Used Gorilla Super Glue Gel – the bits are very secure…. I will do the others then get the air brush to do its job As always thanks for your help, dropping by, and the likes… Cheers,
  4. Dave, APOLOGIES REQUIRED - I have been silently following along-all along no less - not fair to you, your work, as well as your SUPER informative and creative build log. I now also add my kudos to your amazing log. Sincerely, MIchael
  5. Thanks Frank, PS: on page 3 I have a complete explanation regarding light choices, power and where to buy - much easier for you Regards,
  6. Martyn, Thanks - yes I remember your light nightmare with your ST cross (though it did work out very well indeed)- As I keep adding lights percentages for failure go up, don't they. Hoping to add at least six more lanterns -
  7. Denis, E.J,. thanks mates ! Now thinking of how to add extra details to brass guns. Will post some ideas....
  8. Minor update, did not much care for the kit provided ladders, so used some after market bits as well as adding some extra details. Happy with the results – especially seeing that the just installed lights are also working properly.
  9. Martyn, FYI: There has been some criticism regarding your kit’s instructions on how to overlay keel timbers from stern to bow. Surprising that they got it wrong – you're probably aware of this as well. In any case I enclose drawings of how it should look from the Landström's book, as well as a profile from the Vasa Museum in case that you are interested in going that route with that bit of the build. Mine is wrong – was not aware of how keel timbers should actually be assembled way back when..... Regards,
  10. Dave, Good luck - will follow along - my next build will be a Viking ship. Yes Jack P's is gorgeous indeed. Regards,
  11. Hi Mates, Thanks for the likes and nice comments. Finished up the lower gun deck inner wall timbers - added lights, then slid its deck into place. Need to add nails here and there along with hooks for carriage blocks/ropes to those inner wall planks, as well as to the wales on the port side. Used the kit provided knees – they are not "correct" but fit really well - and won't be too noticeable, I hope. Going to try to salvage, and fix that deck framing that did not work out earlier with this build– might be ok for mid-gun deck?.
  12. John, Catching up - I had forgotten how superb of a build she is. And yes if you could back fill this build log that would be great. Regards,
  13. Mark, She's turning into a superb build. I don't remember if you mentioned this either way -- do you intend to add sails or just standing rigging? Regards,
  14. Oh Oh Mark - It is available in the US now. !! https://www.model-space.com/us/build-the-vasa-ship.html
  15. Patrick: as always thanks... Starting on the lower gun deck outer hull planks along with, this time, proper looking gun port framing as well as second row of wales. My last build cannon wood framing was was so not ok -- last pic (I was still learning [still am]) As always mates thanks for dropping by...... Cheers,
  16. Martyn, NICE - will, of course, follow along as well. I also share your exact thoughts Cheers,
  17. Finished up the coppering. Will use the kit provided gun port frames only as a guide to locate proper framings throughout. I also plan to build the hull gun port doors from scratch. Note – kit instructions suggest using black and then red paint for certain timbers, including carriages. I have shied away from this with my two previous builds, and will do the same with this one, just a very personal preference nothing more. So I will leave those triple oak wales as they are. Cheers,
  18. Hi mates Denis: Thanks for the comments. Before I even think about “patting myself on the back” I need to bow to all builders who actually copper entire hulls. My simple little cross section doesn’t hold a candle to those other builder's work and the complexities involved in properly setting 1000s of plates to the curves also involved. I am happy, however with how this first attempt is coming out. Frank: these pliers were part of a set I bought years ago when I was detailing model cars and engines. I think that I got them at Micromark. https://www.micromark.com/Metal-Forming-Pliers-Set-of-4 Regards,
  19. Hi Mates, Started copper plates installation. Decided to start at keel, because if I messed up -during first attempt at this - I could easily hide errors, and learn as I went up to the water lines. Yes some early alignment, and spacing issues -- hiding haha -- but once I got the hang of it all fell into a nice pattern, so far so good. Here are a few early start pics. Regards as always,
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