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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. All I can do is repeat what the others have said, Gary. This is a true masterpiece.
  2. Welcome to MSW, Rock.
  3. I suspect that you're prety much spot on with your assessment. In a way, we can point to the lockdowns and also as youi put the "physical crafting".
  4. Welcome to MSW and a great hobby, Jimmy. Good on doing a build log as it's the best way to get help and advice and meet others.
  5. Looking good on the planking. I don't think I'd go much further without running a planking fan and checking for the taper. I think it was around #3 or #4 that I started tapering.
  6. That's a lot of detail work, Keith. From here, it looks like it was time well spent.
  7. That's great news, Bill. Welcome back home.
  8. You might pop a photo for others to see and give options. It also depends how much detail you want as some places have PE (Syren might even have them) for guns' royal impress near the breech.
  9. Some do go very much into micro detail. It depends on you. Is the bore not open?
  10. I fired one in training with a grenade. It was infantry training after boot camp. Never did one in anger. Did have access to one with flechete rounds. I think you have me confused with someone else.
  11. I sure wouldn't carry one out in public that's for sure. You'd be created by the SWAT team most likely.
  12. I have the large bed MicroMark version of what I think is actually a Sieg. I turn stuck up to about 15". Little Machine Shop's Sieg is <$1000 Micromark is double that. Top of the line is Sherline or Taig. Be warned.... the lathe is only the first step. The tooling can hit your bankbook pretty hard. Don't ask how I know. . Also, one thing I found is that any power tool such as lathes and mills take a bit of time to set up correctly. And some reading... These are how to do type things and good info. http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm https://www.littlemachineshop.com/ Go to the "Learning Center" there's two topics on Lathes. There are other ways of doing masts which is what Gaetan is recommending. Look in the Masting, Rigging, Sails area. Most methods just use a hand plane and jig. Cheaper and somewhat safter than a lathe.
  13. I caught it after the wood dried the next day. I do remember getting ready to pull off the clamps and looking at the bow for some reason. The penny then dropped. As they say..."stuff happens".
  14. And a satisfying "boom" on the recieving end.
  15. Great that you found and fixed it, Glenn. I had that same issue but caught it before I applied glue. Getting certain reference points is a priority as everything after that is affected. I doft my hat to you on this.
  16. Beautiful work on the Beautiful Hen.
  17. Interesting to see what they had then and considered ideal and what we have now. But then, our tools are more sized according to our needs and some magazines ideal workshop. Yes, advertisors did and do play a part in those publications. Last time I saw a Popular Mechanics with their articles about "must have" tools proved that. Come to think of it, we modelers see similar things about "must have" tools on a regular basis. As for the Shopsmith... my dad always wanted one and when he retired, we kids bought him one. He loved it and made a lot wonderful things on it. My youngest brother has it now and uses it a lot for his custom furniture business.
  18. Depending on the kit, things might go way south into never-never land. I'd suggest you take the bow bits and make a temporatry bow out of scrap. Keeping in the proper plance might be a mental exercise but it should be doable. After fairing, replace the bow with the kit parts.
  19. It's all about context. Without it, it's just a model. With it... it comes to life and tells a story. Those stories are often forgotten sadly.
  20. Your stern is going to be epic to say the least. Do test your fixative before applying it to print on the ship. Some may make the ink run.
  21. Add in the background and I had to scratch my brain... is it the real one or the model?
  22. Nicely done on the wales and nails. The nails are just enough to show detail without overpowering with a freckle effect. Having said that, the nails would in wales would also have been black due to the paint put on the wales. I tend to believe a model ship is more than being historically accurate. Artistic choices should also come into play.
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