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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. The originals would be tough to find if at all. Perhaps just take the PDF that's the problem, convert it to a speadsheet and rework it?
  2. Just about every OS banned Flash as it was leaky and easily hacked.
  3. The French used that method and I don't think it ever caught on with the English or other countries.
  4. Looking good from here. I'd add a rheostat or variable resistor to the light chain so it can be toned down. Maybe it's just all the reflective white but it looks a bit too bright.
  5. No worries. EG. Nothing like a good surprise eye-opener to cause a jaw to drop.
  6. Jörgen, Feel free to do your builds as logs in this area. We'd love to see how manage to get the results you have shown.
  7. Whilst to copper or not to copper is ultimately your choice, I go along with the others. No pressure, just saying.....
  8. Best advice I ever heard came from the movie "White men can't jump"..... it was "Listen to the woman.
  9. Hmm.... you could do what some did back in the day and leave the bonnet (hood) open with the head removed and all the parts in the block. I never did on of those but the ones I saw looked great.
  10. Try clicking the lower left hand corner to "Watch on Youtube". I have the same problem from time to time and clicking that usually works for me.
  11. Make it easy on yourself for planking... here's a great groups of tutorials: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ Just soaking really I find the easiest way for planking is after lining off the hull, to mark and shape the wood to taper to the tic marks. Then I use the Chuck method of a bit of a soak and then fix to shape on piece of scrap wood... and apply heat from either a hair dryer or a heat gun. The key is the heat which softens the chemical bonds of the wood fibers. Plain water just won't do it.
  12. I believe that workflow is something each of us has to figure out what works for us. Generally I do yards and masts as much as possible (fittings) off ship first, then start at the front and work my way astern doing standing rigging first and then another pass doing running. I do try to set up my rigging such that it's also installed from centerline outward. I may not completely run the full line leaving one (outboard line) for later. One key is to study the rigging and look for "gotcha's" where if you do something it blocks other things. And finally, don't rush it and inspect and re-inspect frequently.
  13. Looks interesting. As for the curved bowspit, I would think it was curved for strength. A straight one would be more bendable. But I might be wrong.
  14. That is not good news but understandable. Will you have to start over or can you cut the bow off this model and us it? That might save you much work.
  15. Thanks for the answer. I appreciate it.
  16. I hope you're feeling better, Bob. Rule number 1 with wives.... "Listen to the woman and obey". It keeps the peace.
  17. I have some questions/thoughts, Jules. 1) Given all the wars that went through Europe over the centuries, is likely that many (most?) records were destroyed? 2_ Guilds in many ways were secret societies so if build plans were made, would be realistic to think they were destroyed when the ship was launched? I do believe that much knowledge in the past was word of mouth and not recorded in an archival form. I'm just curious.... thanks for any thoughts.
  18. Sorry to hear that Alan. Basement floods are no fun at all. I hope damage was minimal and clean up can move quickly.
  19. That is so hard to believe it's card... it's that real looking.
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