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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Looking very good from here. I think planking is your choice depending on your vision of the finished ship. There's choices from planking everything to very minimal with leaving open area in between the two extremes.
  2. No point in upsetting the cows. They and the everything else are looking fantastic.
  3. Basically, anything in casks as it would need to be sealed from water and mold. The first thing in the bottom would be ballast.
  4. Good to hear from you Keith. Don't sweat us, we're a patient lot and also... family comes first.
  5. I have this one.... print... double check for accuracy.... adjust if needed and use it. Has a bunch of the more common scales. ImperialScales.pdf
  6. If you don't have a smart phone (like some of us grumpy old guys) just Google "scale converter". There's tons of them in the results.
  7. Welcome back home, Mike.
  8. To be honest, I don't remember as it was so long ago. We had a massive system crash (aka "The Great Crash" back then and lost everything so have no details. BTW, this is a bashed model from the AL kit to bring it in line from the kit to the 1855 ship. The original was from the 1700's was scrapped and the Navy played some games and called it a "rebuild" due to a battle with Congress. See: https://www.navsea.navy.mil/Portals/103/Documents/NSWC_Carderock/fouled_anchors-1.pdf I would suggest a couple things.... 1) Start a log of your own as it's a great way to meet others and also get help. 2) Hit this link.... https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=uss constellation&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=135 It will take you to the search feature and display all the logs for this model and you can check them out for how they did it.
  9. I agree with OC. I'm just in awe of someone doing this.
  10. The brass looks perfect as does everything else.
  11. You raise a good point. How the heck would they repair bronze/brass plating on a sculpture? I have no idea myself.
  12. Just beautiful and incredible to my eye. I hope to follow along on your next model.
  13. They also used yellow ocre many times to simulate gilding. All depends on the English Captain's ego and budget. Possibly the same for the US captains as money was tight for the first frigates.
  14. What a great build, Ken. I remember seeing that beast a couple times back in the day at local drag strips. Not something I would want to drive but still... a showstopper. I also saw his twin engine rail a few times.
  15. I'm pulling up a chair. I'm enjoying your work on these small machines and seeing the skills it takes which are way beyond me.
  16. You might consider getting some cotton gloves or even surgical type vinyl gloves for handing the ship. Still looking sharp, Kevin.
  17. Looking good. If you hadn't told us about shortening the spar, we never would have known.
  18. Chris did a lot of work for Amati but not sure what models. As for tools.... there's topics in this area: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/18-modeling-tools-and-workshop-equipment/ Almost all posts with advice have "buy only what you need but buy the best you can afford". Start easy.... X-acto type knives, tweezers, some sanding paper then build from there.
  19. Great looking bird, Chris. Don't sweat the trolls and just give them the attention they deserve which is none.
  20. Wonderful with amazing details. I had to look twice at the last photo to realize there's mud and debris in the tire treads. Incredible.
  21. For some reason, the old line from Get Smart comes to mind... "Not the craw. The craw!" The boat itself is some seriously fantastic work. I'm looking forward to the rest....
  22. It's a joy to see your work again and you back. Love that lion as it's a great work.
  23. By all means, feel free to open a log on your model when you're ready. It's a great way to get help and meet other modelers.
  24. I would think either way will work with some clean up filing involved before painting.
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