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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Thanks, Siggi. I'm comparing the various ways of making these small boats for future reference.
  2. Wow... what a concept and philosophy and then seeing that applied. I hope you have much success with this concept, Chuck and perhaps some others might come over to it.
  3. Depending on the thickness of the wood, the most important thing will be the tooth count. While this is for the Byrnes saw, the tooth counts still apply for the various wood thicknesses: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php
  4. Kudos, Chris for telling it like it is and to Druxey also. I think, in all the years of MSW (both 1.0 and 2.0 and even DDM) that there's only been one that has ended up being a historic and potentially valuable model. OTOH, we've had a few who have set out to restore granddad's model and have done well with guidance and help.
  5. Excellent recovery. Looking at the photos, one would never know she had been the victim of a disaster. Welcome back to MSW.
  6. She looks like she belongs on the water, Walter. Will you use a keel ballast that's removable or just put it inside?
  7. Siggi, If I'm understanding this, you edged glued the planks? What else did you put on the mold besides white paint to keep the glue from sticking to the mold?
  8. Here's the drawing area.. hopefully you'll have access: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/39-hms-triton-downloads-area/ All the drawings you need should be in there. There's a timber list for the cross-section here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/643-triton-cross-section-timber-list/
  9. I checked Thurston and while they sell 2" and 3" (51mm and 76mm) diameter blades, the smallest hole size is 12.5mm. I think that hole size might limit you. I did get a number of hits using the following in Google: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=slitting%20saw%20blades%2010mm Just click the link and it will open.
  10. We'll be patient Bill. The important thing is for you to recover and be well.
  11. Here's a link: http://www.olsonsaw.net/cat/scroll-saw-blades/scrollsanders/ What I like is they're smaller than even the Proxxon belt sander. They also take off material slower so one has more control than with a belt or disk sander.
  12. Stunning work on the gun, Karl. I'll ask the same question as Druxey and also ask "was it painted or is just the light"?
  13. Looks good, Tom. Rule of thumb... figure out your needs and then increase it to 1.5 times teh amount you think you need. And get a large scrapbox. At least that's been my experience. Disclaimer: Some will say double it, others get the amount you think you need. Any leftover wood and go towards the next build.
  14. This part that I'm working on now is probably one of the most relaxing parts I've done. I think I've chilled out on things. The drops... they not only have their shape when viewed from the side, but also have to sit flush to the hull and also have to be rounded to match the gallery. Then there's the outside shape from top to bottom which I can only describe as a rounded bevel. Thick at the top, thin at the bottom. Here's some pics of the work in progress. I'm making both at the same time to shoot for uniformity I started with blanks cut to the shape when viewed from the side. I then set up the scroll saw with sanding blades instead of cutting blades and did the fit to the hull. I'm currently doing the shape from side to side to match the gallery. Here's pictures of the process (not complete as I forgot to fire up the camera in between tossing some in the scrap box and starting over. First.. rear view to show the fit to the hull. Side view to show the shape and fit to the gallery. Lastly, the rounding to match the gallery. Being cheap frugal, I have some 120 grit Olsen Sanding Blades that I've turned around and stuck a strip of 100 grit stickyback to. Works like a charm. More when I get the final shape done and after finessing the final fit.
  15. Thanks for that Walter. I think I missed that in the log somewhere about it being sailed. My brain must be overloaded.. or just going to mush.
  16. Hi Mehmet, That is some great weathering you're doing on this model. I have to look twice lately to make sure you're not showing the real ship.
  17. Are asking about the short carved fashion piece on the outside of the counter or do you mean the sternpost? The drawing looks like where the sternpost connects to the keel.
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