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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. I've seen some of this Keith, back in the 70's when I worked for a defense contractor. All prototypes were done manually and then if the parts were successful, the data was taken, drawings reworked and offset tables (I think that's what they called them) were punched into tape and fed to the big Cincy Millicron milling machines for the production run. CAD was a gleam but many companies were doing in-house things on mainframes to get things to the machines. The CNC of today and all the digital measuring equipment was only a gleam in the machinist's eye back then or maybe a dream. I've also done some milling the old way with engines as most auto machine shops used old manual equipment. Lots of fun and I've probably forgot more than I want to admit as it was (to me at least) a long time ago.
  2. JerseyCityFrankie is covering this here also: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11248-full-rigged-ship-wavertree/ He's involved iwth her as a volunteer.
  3. John, Do a test and print out a sample. It should a lot better than what's on the screen.
  4. Mobbsie, I think you're right. I'm looking at it as I'm shaping and offering up the drops and natural woods do seem better. Back to the land of sawdust....
  5. Superb work, Grant. Hmm.. damaged tooling.. expendable... crap happens. Yeah.. that's it... crap happens. At least you got the threads turned before finding out about the disaster. But I do feel your pain.
  6. That's bad news on the damage but you are right, it could have been worse. I think we've all done that.. in my case, more than once. Everything is just beautiful and amazingly detailed.
  7. Thanks for the "likes" and comments, as always they are welcomed. Not much time lately in the shipyard do to other commitments but I'm hoping for a change in that. But, I do have question, so tell me what you think. Hahn did his drops, roof, and carvings in a two contrasting light woods. L'Hermione has coloring matching the paint. I'm debating... I have the drops set up for pear and same for the roof. My other choice is to stain them ebony as I don't have any ebony in the right size and nor am I inclined at this point to want the aggravation with the sanding dust... and there will be alot of it. I'm leaning towards the pear (not Swiss Pear) for the drops and roof and leave them natural with boxwood carvings. No finish would be applied for quite awhile to allow the pear to age some and gain the brown patina. What do you think? The browns of pear and boxwood or ebony and boxwood?
  8. Excellent start, Piet. I'm with you on things keeping us from the shipyard.
  9. John, Most CAD programs click where you want to start and release the mouse button.. move the mouse and line should follow until you click again to set it. Holding the mouse button down allows freehand drawing of the line.
  10. I've used both the manual wheels and the digital readouts.. I'd go for the digitals anytime instead of the manuals. The ability to re-zero at any point without accidentally moving the wheel is a big plus.
  11. Frank, You're doing great. It's a steep learning curve at best and I can fully attest to that.
  12. Terry, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/ In that same sub-forum are quite a few pinned topics to help you with MSW.
  13. That work, my friend, is justly deserving of a beer.
  14. I remember the Marine General during the 1st Gulf War, looking at the "invasion fleet' for his troops landing in Kuwait. All around were missile cruisers and hi-tech destroyers and him asking: "Where the hell is my gun line?" They softened the beachhead with aircraft. Not an ideal situation for the grunts making the landings. If they had been heavily opposed, the Marines would have taken some serious losses. It's a trade-off, EJ. For the battleships, they added cruise missile capability by not carrying all the shells and powder they formerly could for the main guns. Removing the old anti-aircraft guns en masse and added the Phalanx systems. Radar upgrades. It will be interesting on what ships get upgraded when the Navy starts deploying the railgun. So far, it appears that only gas turbine powered ships will get it.
  15. I thought about that Greg, but the overall thickness precluded it. What I am doing is etching the parts for carving and cutting the complete part out. I don't have the software or the CAD knowledge to do 3D at this point so 3D printing is out. I've been doing a bit of carving as time permits and it is rather relaxing....
  16. Thanks for the "likes" and comments. I'm doing some touch up sanding on the windows to improve the look. I'm using Micromark's Micro-Glaze. But it looks like they don't sell it anymore. I have heard of some using white glue since it dries clear.
  17. Super, Ben. I agree with Greg on the engineering feat. She will be a sure fire hit on any lake or pond you take her to.
  18. I'm happy to have been of help. Some of this stuff (ok... most actually) can be pretty confusing.
  19. I hope you qualify for the new treatment, Kees. After dealing (and continue to deal with) my Admiral's health issues, I understand the uncertainty. The ship is looking great, by the way.
  20. Ron, Google the model number and manufacturer. Then change the parameters like adding the word "parts" or "belts". If you don't have those, then it's measure the belt length and width and Google for that. A quick Google on what I can make out EMESCO (it looks like) yields this: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=emesco+dental+drill+belt
  21. Here's a topic in the wood discussion that might help with wood in the UK... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6502-uk-timber-suppliers/ The first one listed (twigfolly.com) seems to have become a dead link. However, the replacement site is: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/384-where-to-buy-wood/?p=399613 Cherry works well also as I'm using it on my Licorne build. Others also use maple or pear. But perhaps that link above will be a help.
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