mtaylor
-
Posts
25,990 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by mtaylor
-
Wefalck, Sherline recommends that this "upgrade" only be done on machines that are well run-in and also to monitor the bearing temperature. When it gets warm, shut it down. As for longevity.. good question. I did a mod my (non-Sherline) and so far, so good. But then, I'm not running it very long at any given time, either.
-
Mike, The short answer is "yes". Not only width but also thickness were chosen by the designer and shipwrights to put strength where they felt it was needed.
-
Planking questions
mtaylor replied to tarmes's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Tim, I'll answer the best I can... #5 works well for kit wood as there's no extra for spiling. You'll also probably need to use stealers and drop planks. If you apply heat and soaking, bending the wood is pretty easy and will fit quite well. For kit, most, if they spile, just spile the 2nd (outer most) layer. The first layer isn't seen so many (myself included) use filler to get a smooth form for planking. I can't answer why #4 isn't used. Or maybe it is and has not been identified as the method used. Planking, like many other things, is one of those things that you'll have to try yourself. Spiling is the "real" technique, the rest are simulations. But use the one you feel comfortable with and gives the appearance that you like. I found spliing not to be that difficult when I stepped into scratch building but then again, I made sure to have a pile of wood handy to allow for waste. If I didn't, I would have used a different method. -
Planking questions
mtaylor replied to tarmes's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Tim, Method 4 or 5 will give you a nice appearing hull. Do consider using that of #5 to prevent things going wildly out control due to tolerance buildup, .. or not. Spiling is the way the old ships were done, however. For a double planked hull, you can spile the first layer but it will be hidden by the second. If you look at the planking tutorials at the top of this section, you'll get some good ideas. Also, in the article database here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php In the planking section is a good article "Simple Hull Planking for Beginners" which might be very useful. Good luck. -
Triton Notes
mtaylor replied to Matrim's topic in HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
Yes, it's for the 1:48 Cross-Section, RedDawg. -
Frank, I agree with Brian. However, if this is something that's going to haunt you, maybe drill out the bolts from the keelson, de-bond the glue might leave the frames salvagable. I'd hate to see you starting over.
- 649 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- dunbrody
- famine ship
- (and 2 more)
-
Triton Notes
mtaylor replied to Matrim's topic in HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
RedDawg, Are you talking about the one here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/643-triton-cross-section-timber-list/ The ones in the PDF are in millimeters. -
Ben, Try the isopropyl. Maybe resetting some frames? If it's just the keel, that's good.
-
Just amazing, Igor. Your ships in a bottle are detailed but this is going beyond detailed. I'm,just fascinated by it.
- 131 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- bottle
- the old man and the sea
- (and 1 more)
-
ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
mtaylor replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice joinery on the planks around the bitts, Paul. You're doing a beautiful build. -
Very methodical and well thought out, Frank. The pictures reflect this very well.
- 649 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- dunbrody
- famine ship
- (and 2 more)
-
I had to think about this.. you're right. I'm thinking there might be another and that's the research. Aye, it's I who have the Kennedy quote. The galleries can be my "moon"... I just don't want this to turn into an Apollo 13.
-
Naval War College reenacts Jutland wargame
mtaylor replied to dgbot's topic in Nautical/Naval History
If you can find it, Avalon Hill did one decades ago. There is no board, you play where ever you have the space. Perhaps not quite the same as the war college but a thoughtful game anyway.- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
Converted to a museum or kept in commission - USS Constellation and USS Olympia. There used to be minesweeper in St. Louis that was washed away by the floods (I think it was '93) and sunk.
-
Bug, I know there's lids on the main gundeck but are they also on the fore and quarter decks?
- 2,191 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- confederacy
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
It's good to see you back, Max. It's good when a funeral is all of that. Good memories help displace the sad ones.
-
Thanks again for the comments, the likes, and the visit. I've been thinking about it.. but risk at this point until the inside has beams, decks and ceilings is just too great. But I am going to start cutting some of the frame extensions as I will be needing the clearance to work. The windows are close to 1/2" (12mm) high and 3/8" (9.5 mm) wide. The mullions are about 1/32" (0,8 mm) wide as is the outer frame. I'm cheating and cutting them in one piece on the laser cutter (aka Death Star) from 1/16" (1.6mm) sheet of Euro Boxwood as I really don't think I could do these by hand. The people making their windows with mortised joints are incredible.
-
Now that a detail one doesn't often see actually done on the French models. Impressive work, Giampiero.
-
She's all shipshape and Bristol fashion, Patrick. I think she's ready for sea. I'm glad your a good sport even with comments made in jest.
-
To my knowledge there are no "Romero" plans for the Triton. The MSW are the only ones I've ever heard about or found.
-
Mobbsie has a point about the die holder. I was wondering the same thing. Also, won't the lathe spin too fast for it to work and still get the required feed speed? Beautiful machine work on it though.
- 339 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- dumas
- Chris-Craft
- (and 3 more)
-
Thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in. I've spent the last 4 days, working on the two main windows and tweaking the frames for the galleries. The top was too far outboard and the windows didn't lean inward. I've also done several iterations of the two rearmost windows to get the fit. Here's were I am this weekend. The windows will get cleaned up more (laser char) and then glazed before installing. I'm going with full glazing as I think it will look better. I'll also add the planking between them and finalize the forward most window. I'm hoping that it will have the 3 panes wide but we'll have to see. I'm thinking that this window was overall narrower than the other two with rectangular panes instead of square-ish. Here's the pictures. The first picture shows the "lean" that I was talking about with the red lines for emphasis. The other two just show the window placement.
-
Rek, Try asking about finding one in the appropriate sub-forum here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/58-general-ship-model-kit-discussions-questions-and-reviews/ I can't answer your question except that maybe it's the "50 post" rule.
Our Emblem ®
