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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. It's probably better in some ways that you only got one stick. Could you imagine if you said "29" and they shipped 29 bundles? Yeah.. summer is here and the yard is demanding attention. There's a pusher boat?????
  2. Hmm.... both scales match? Didn't mix up cross-section and full-build frames? I'm not sure.
  3. I find it interesting that this ship has (comparatively speaking) such a long tiller. Was there a reason for this like maybe the rudder was larger than "normal" for a ship of it's size?
  4. Very much a genius tutorial, Thanasis. Thanks for posting it.
  5. Thanks for the info Joel and Frolick. Fascinating.
  6. Thanks Joel. I learn something new every day here. I wasn't aware of them. I thought the elm tree pumps were normally used for fire fighting.
  7. Patrick, This jaw-dropping. There's more detail in this than models a hundred times her size. Are those "kitchen canisters" on the red cloth on the stove..?
  8. Better late than never... <runs in><slides to a stop> Nice floor... nicer model.
  9. Welcome back... For the stove.. have a look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-furniture-and-deck-fittings.php On English ship's, the stove would have been just aft of the main bitts under the forecastle. I have no idea on the rest of your questions.
  10. John, It's not a race so take all the time you need. That's part of the fun and relaxation of this hobby... no rush!
  11. I was thinking... had a similar issue with the Constellation. Run the hull planking up to the bottom of the windows. Run the side planking around the stern above the windows. And Scott has a good suggestion... look at Nils' Kaiser William. I'm not sure what other ships here have a round stern like that.
  12. I hope you're right on the "more experience" part, Druxey. I buy the alcohol in the super large bottles... so far.. only one.. but... stuff happens.
  13. Dick, I've not tried a laser printer. I think the heat from the fuser will be a problem. I've printed on silkspan using inkjet type by taping the silkspan to a sheet of cardstock or heavy paper. If not held flat out, it bunches and tears. I found that out the hard way as I had tear an inject apart to get out all the bits of silkspan caused by clearing the jam.
  14. Give it time, Dave. Chuck also has a topic posted elsewhere about kits that maybe "should" be made. I'm needing some filter time but having leapt into scratchbuilding, I'm not sure what would be a good project. The Triton Cross-Section seems to have worked well... It's an interesting build, not too difficult, and by most standards, pretty quick depending on the builder and how complex they want to go. And it produces a nice model. The full-build.. not very successful as it's a huge time eater and complex. At this point, I'm not even considering the next model.. well.. I'm considering but not deciding, put it that way. Somewhere is a happy medium but darned if I know where it would be... perhaps, fittings... like Chuck suggested. Or maybe a mast mounted to a fake deck with deadeyes, full sails,and all the rigging.
  15. Greg, Post a picture as it will help identify what needs to be done.
  16. Gehard, See this topic... both G,Delcroix and Brian might have what you want. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13552-books-for-sale-hms-warrior-romero/
  17. Alan, If there's a next time.... <fingers crossed for you> just put the part in a plastic tub like you so, add alcohol to cover and put the lid on. I found it seems to soak in and break apart the joint a lot faster on assemblies like that than the paper towel method. It still takes some time for the alcohol to evaporate from the wood, though.
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