mtaylor

I'm one who thinks the research is half the fun. And also half the frustration. Let's face it, with a kit, you either take the manufacturer's word for it, or you research and bash if you're going for accuracy. See my response below on one set of fun and games I had..... I did this kit. I visited the Constellation in 1977 and was convinced by the smooth BS of the tour guide that this really was the 1797 frigate and I was very impressed. Fast forward many years. I got the kit... oh boy!!!! Then I decided to check... oops... the kit isn't of the 1797 frigate. What I saw sitting in the harbor in Baltimore wasn't the 1797 frigate. Hit the internet and discover that many folks have been bamboozled over the years either by intention or those who did it, just didn't know any better. The plans in the Smithsonian were even "changed". So.. research indicated the kit had the hull lines of what sat in the harbor.... the 1854 sloop Constellation. The folks in Baltimore butchered the hull to produce the so-called frigate. Hmm.... what to do? I spread my wings and bashed the living daylights out of that kit. Jerry Todd is doing a scratch and I feel he has better research than I did, so don't take my build as gospel. AL apparently got suckered into believing that the ship model they have was the real frigate. But, the info is out there so why don't they change the kit? I'm suspecting they continue to sell the kit as is because people buy it because buyers believe that the manufacturer wouldn't lie to them. Besides, who wants the sloop... they want the frigate. And what of the 1797 frigate? Good question. Most tend to think that the plans went up in smoke when the British burned Washington. Anyway, my moral.. there's accuracy and there's art and sometimes there's both at once. I do think both have a place in model ship building. If nothing else, just make sure you have fun.

There should be a caveat here on finishing first... glue doesn't always stick to finishes. Test first. You may have to scrape or sand the areas where deck furniture will be glued down.

It just looks right at home at the beach. Very well done, Kees.

Oh... you asked about 3D printing... here in Trader's and Dealers: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7030-high-precision-3d-printing-services/ I can't speak to the quality as different printing methods and printers yield different results.

Not so sure about checking the fittings for a match. Kit makers are notorious for putting stuff in the box that's either "close" or "no way close" A good example is ship's wheels. If it's round and with pointy things on it, they'll toss it in the box as size is umimportant.

Go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/ There's lots of useful info about MSW. There's one pinned post for attaching images to a post or PM.

tsurfing, Do a search on 3D printing. I there's stuff in the CAD area, but off the top of my head I'm not sure.

Have great time, one and all. I raise a glass to you on Thursday night.

It's great that you were able to find your way back to the shipyard and us. I hope life settles down for you.

I think it's a rip-off from a Turkish company. I found it following a bunch of links but I can't seem to get back to it... <sigh>

No good news. I'm afraid. It's a Shi-Cheng kit and they are banished. I read a couple of build logs (Russian) and they had issues with completeness and quality.

Glenn, It's not boring but fascinating. I'm one of those to whom a picture speaks as much if not more than words.

Thanks Frolick. I have the Belle Poule monograph as my bible on this. I also have Le Venus and Bonhomme Richard monographs as ancillary materal. Mr. Delacroix recommended using Belle Poule as the reference for rigging and other items as it's appropriate to the time period. The watch keeper's bench "Banc de quart", chicken coops, a "different" decking in the Great Cabin along with paneling there seem to be hallmarks of the French frigates and maybe bigger but I can't speak to them. I'm still going over things to get it right or at least as right as I can make it.

Cabrillo, I'd like to suggest you open a build log. Bring us up to date and carry on from there. I think there's lots of folks who would like to see your log.

Matti, On the ratlines, what I've used is a 50-50 mix of water and white glue brushed on. I find CA turns the line white but the white glue doesn't. As always, test before proceeding.

Go to the main page: http://modelshipworld.com/ . Down on right below the globe are number of dealers who help MSW by donating money, kits for auction, etc. You can also go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/41-traders-dealers-buying-or-selling-anything-post-it-here/ and have a look at the pinned posts.

I don't see any build logs for this ship. I'd suggest start a build log and let us look over your shoulder. It'll be the best way to help, advice, and encouragement.

Gil, There was a system burp back in March. See here for additional info: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6021-server-maintenance-scheduled/ The root cause has been found and corrected and the site is now getting a different type of backup so this doesn't happen again.

He's also a sponsor.

And the rest of us think we have problems rigging our cannons.... Looking great Daniel.

I just asked about the alcohol based on an observation. Since there's no data on what it will do the wood, I'm probably going to stay with my current method of water and curling iron.

Hi all, For anymore discussion of the upcoming event.. please use this topic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8275-spring-msw-member-show-and-tell-meeting-discussion/ This way Dave can have his build log back.

I did it... but hit the mid-point as I wasn't seeing the fine graduations in hue. I guess it's time to push the eye doc about cataract surgery.

That is an excellent link Brian. You might consider posting it to Shore Leave also.

I'd start with a soft cloth and the right solvent for each glue (alcohol for PVA and acetone for CA). Wipe carefully and don't let it soak into the wood as it might loosen the planks. If that fails, sand. When gluing with PVA, use a cotton swab or a cloth soaked in water to remove the excess glue. CA need acetone.