mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Looks fantastic, Chris. Now put away L'Orient....
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I am in total awe. Just amazing. A black floor... what a great idea. Now to convince the Admiral.
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- le fleuron
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nenad, I think most of us have been there to some degree. It's not a perfect world, far from it. But if modeling gives us the pleasure and focus to put the day behind us, who cares? It's a good thing and the spice flows. Mow the lawn, wash the car, and spend some time with Admiral. Her Majesty will be patient.- 4,152 replies
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- cutty sark
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Let's try to call you Ray, but we don't have to call you Johnson. Reference for those who remember this --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LztZu5s0-QU
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I've been fiddling with the saw while waiting for glue to dry. I put a shim into the forward end of the fence (the tall add-on) and it cants just enough so the back of the blade isn't hitting the plank coming off. I'm thinking about Jeff from HobbyMill's method for a guide fence on the feed side. He uses a block of wood and his thumb... hmm....I'm still considering similar to an Indexing Block as a viable alternative. So many choices, just need to figure out which is best for me.
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When you've been around model ship building, you know that sometimes crap happens. Same for the "name the ship" game. It happens and there's no chastising. Another hint, some players are known to change or remove the background to ruin anyone using Google Image Search. I'm not a player, just an interested follower.
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You might check (if you've not done so) your spam folder and also spam settings. It's also possible that your ISP is blocking sites for some reason.
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Dan, I slept on what you've said and I'm going to rethink things on the saw. You're right about the kickback. I've been lucky so far. I'm thinking that a small mod to the tall fence to give some clearance at the rear of the blade (it's an add-on) might do the trick.
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Sjors, Err... no. The saw isn't handmade or maybe it was since it was made in China.
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John, The guard is always off.... I do have push sticks in abundance and I stand to the right of the saw and move the wood from left to right. I don't want to be in the way of a kickback. I hate to say it, but I'm scared as hell of this saw. I had the guards on and darn near lost a finger when the wood kicked. So, no guards, stand out of the way and use push sticks. Don, I wish this was the Jim Saw, but it's not. With the Jim Saw, the aft end of the fence can be set such that there's more space at the rear of the blade than at the front. So usually, I CA a block of wood to the left so the plank can peel off and not get chewed up by the back of the blade. The main fence is just some mental security. When I get some time, I'm going to rework the fence a bit so has a step just aft of the leading edge of the blade to do this and then use the feather board properly. Or, hope something trashes the saw and I can justify buying the Jim Saw.
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Bob, Beautiful work on the deck framing. Your scratchbuild work is fantastic.
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Sweet work, Popeye.
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Scott, We're a patient lot... your model will be there when there's time and so will we. Some things like "life" have to come before a hobby.
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- renown
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Piet, The story behind O-19 and your passion has made this build special to a lot of us. I know it has for me.
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Exactly. I just bought 4 Thurston blades (different tooth count) which Jeff from HobbyMill recommends for the Byrnes Saw and spent less than what 2 blades would have cost me from MM. And they are superior blades. He may hate it being called that, but that's what he calls it on his website. On the featherboard.... how hard would it be to make one?
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I swear, my next ship is going to be Gaetan sized..... if I can figure out where to put it. Anyway, keel number 5 is just stuck in position and not glued up yet. Once glued, I'll do the final 3 half-frames but I do have to work on the transom first. That would be that small pile of planks in L-square. I've cut the rest of my planking and it's in the pic. Just another quickie side-topic.... here's a shot of the setup on my saw for cutting the planks. I set the wood to the fingerboards, move the fence, and cut a plank. Move the wood to the left and then the fence and rip another strip. I do it backwards since I'm left handed. The featherboard is locked down (in this case) to produce a 1/32" thick plank. The wood I'm cutting it from is 1/8" thick boxwood.
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Remco, Congratulations on a major milestone. You continue to raise the bar on all of us.
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JVO, You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost. I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw. However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate. I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks. When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust. No plastic for one thing.
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Impressive and a great tutorial. Makes me less nervous about doing one though like Alistair, mine has to be 1:64. I think the next ship will be at 1:24....
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Steve, That's basically anti-boarding netting which would also help keep falling debris from the masts from landing on that deck. It would be unrolled all the way to the bulwarks.
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where is X-Y Table thread
mtaylor replied to captainbob's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob, This one???? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4972-diy-drill-press-stand-xy-table/ -
Hmm.... I did some Googling and there's also the town "historic district". I'm wondering if they might have something. Somewhere I saw a miniature much like the Woolrich yard. Back to Google I guess.
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Question on Shipyard Fixtures circa 1774
mtaylor replied to edbardet's topic in Nautical/Naval History
No, I don't. See the other post you made on Deptford.
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