mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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William Sutherland's concept of ship hull design, 1711
mtaylor replied to Waldemar's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I think that I"m just confused about it and need to do some research. I realize there's a lot of ways to do lines but since I've never drawn a set of lines... well, there's that. Fascinating topic even if I don't grasp everything. -
I've learned a couple of things with small PE that might help in the future. One is that I go barefoot when working with it. If you step on it, you know it. I have had carpet in my shops (spare bedrooms) so the bare feet aren't on a cold floor. The other is a small collection of small pliers with the "bent" tips and then a small amount of beeswax applied. The beeswax can easily be removed when done. Also, a few toothpicks with the ends coated in the beeswax. I've also learned that the Jedi mindtricks don't work at finding them. So skip that.
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Very well done, build, Johnny. Been an interesting and educational log.
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- Finished
- Khufus Solar Boat
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Reminds of old joke about school and taking "anatomy by braille". Ok... I'm headed to the naughty corner again.
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An amazing result. Who knew paper would be so good for this. That is one impressive bird.
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Looks very real from here. I think your photo skills are a excellent at your building skills.
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What Yves said, Kevin. You can do it.
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale
mtaylor replied to Egilman's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looking forward to the F4 builds now, too. Loved to see those birds both in Nam and in airshows stateside. -
I'm in. I hope all is going well with the eye and healing. Looks like a interesting build.
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Good idea on the waterways, Yves. She's looking good. About the only way to let viewers know about the inboard works is photos. Or a lot well placed cut outs which to many destroys the look of the model.
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Translation to English of Michele's response to Scrubbyj427: First, as a first step, a light layer of shellac should be applied, which will act as an insulator between the wood and the bitumen. Yes, exactly because the bitumen given directly to the wood brutally blackens it. When shellac is dry, proceed with the second coat of bitumen diluted in wax. You need to get a consistency that you can work with and that doesn't dry out too quickly. The wax should be spread and then removed the excess wax, taking care to go into the small details. I use soft brushes and small pads to be able to enter where it is impossible with a single pad. It is not easy, of course it takes trial and error first as I did, and only after several attempts can you decide how to proceed. You will have to limit yourself to one coat, because even a second coat, albeit light of bitumen, will darken the wood considerably.
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Double wings on biplanes are a bear to do and you've mastered it. I'm not sure if there is a page on rigging the Pup though I have seen it for other birds in the past. Usually it's just photos that someone has annotated.
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Welcome to MSW, Zac. I can't add to the above advice as they've pretty much said it all. You can, by using the search feature (upper right hand side) search for the kit builds of you models. By looking at other build logs of the same model, you might save some aggravation as someone has already ran into any problems you might have.
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The sails look great add to the effect of heading into battle.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Starlight, Maybe a wash over it or before printing? I'm thinking silkspan and tape it to a sheet of paper to act as base and crumple. I'd think paint might work but too thick so India Ink might be best. Thus, no printer needed except for maybe lines to but that could be done on paper and then lay the silkspan on top.
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Welcome to MSW, BMT. Do consider a build log for you next model. It's a great way to get help and also meet others.
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Good to see the mojo back, OC. Excellent work on the figures.
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Went through that... from incandescent to florescent and finally LEDs over the years. LED's are really great. I vaguely remember something like what you describe in your kitchen.
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Some go for long posts with text and many photos. Others go for short. Depends on the builder. If playing "catch up" go for longer posts. You'll get into a rhythm that you're comfortable with. As for confusion... my normal state of affairs some days so don't feel bad.
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LED's are great. I use them all over the apartment. Cut my electric bill down to about 1/4 of what it was when we I started using them in the house and just continued using them in my small place.
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48th Scale imperial rulers. Where?
mtaylor replied to John Murray's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob, I have a folder in my model ship area on my PC HDD. I keep files of all sorts there. The HP Envy is pretty good printer all things considered though I wish they still made a printer (at a reasonable cost) for 11X17 paper. The accuracy is come a long way on printers. They used have a forced change such that they would never print exactly at 100% to stop counterfeiting. But that went away when they started using the special paper with the embed strip in it. I suggest, print it on your suitable clear media then spray it with a clear fixative. You'll have to do some research on which works best as I"m not sure what's best. Check with a local stationary shop as they can point you to clear media and fixative for the ink jet type printers. -
I hear you on the power bills and the news is full of articles on you guys across the pond and the current state of power costs. I don't blame you for stepping back. I'd do the same thing. The LED lamp should have a power rating somewhere on it. It's the hair dryer and compressor that that will eat the watts.
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