Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Just got back in after an adventurous stroll - I had a fall lost my footing and landed on my hands and knees in the road - picked myself up checked the damage - "can still move my legs/knees - check" - "hands bleeding a bit from the gravel" walked the remainder home got in admiral put a couple of plasters on - currently sitting with a freezer bag on my one knee as its a bit swollen and red. Typical first walk out in nearly two weeks and that happens.😒 OC. -
Thank you kindly. OC.
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But worry end result might equal - spilled paint over work surface, with my mains operated drill anyway. OC.
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Yep - hence why I wont wear them - thank you so much for the nice words Denis. OC.
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I have already got Five pairs of Knitted swimming trunks in the draw.😜 OC.
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She is busy knitting me a pair of wellington boots for the winter.🤣 OC.
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Yep, I read about that, any thoughts on mixing - as I have also been using an old brush and stiring the paint like crazy as well as shaking it - kind of spent more time shaking and stiring than actually painting. OC.
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I think my back up plan is to - paint them/weather them then let them dry for a few days then look at my options - Tamiya Flat coat laquare is not really practical due to the smell, I think its a case of shaking and more shaking. OC.
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Yep, my arm is now Eight foot long due to tha amount of shaking I have been doing, the funny thing is its flats down any odd bits on flat paint, its like there is something about Vallejo Blue and Flat Red. OC.
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Yep Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish is supposed to do just that, and in fairness with flat paints it dous do the job, but on some shiny paints it just wont dull them no matter how many coats they have had - the blue on one og my figures has now had 6 coats of spaced out Vallejo flat coat - but still has a satin look. OC.
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I still have a Tamiya rattle can of Clear laquare but I dont want to mix that into the mix as I am trying to keep it all just 100% water based acrylics. OC.
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Thanks bro, yep the idea is - Im priming with Vallejo Surface Primer (supposed to be a matt product / the grey one is but the black one is slighly shiny) then the paints I use all Vallejo are supposed to be a matt paint also, so in theory I should be starting out with a flat painted figure and the flat clear coat should be just to knock down the odd shiny spot and to seal the finish - but its not working out that way, its deffo the Prussian Dark Blue thats playing up with the so called flat red a close second, and doesn't want to flat (like its saying " I want to be noticed" OC.
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The reason for brush painting the top coats is not all the figures needs to be flat - areas like the swords, hat plates, Cuirrasier helmet details and cuirasses breast plates need to stay shiny. But thanks for the heads up. OC.
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I remember that kit in the Airfix catalogues way back (cough cough) it was a well respected kit back then - and now has so much potential. OC.
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"Why do flat clear coats have to be a pain in the neck and bain of my life"? Evening all - yep that subject again - I have been trying in vain to flat the finish of my Vallejo Acrylic paints uisng a bottle of Vallejo Matt clear top coat varnish - tried everything - thinned it using distilled water 40/60 as suggested, applied it in thin coats allowing drying time before re applying, even added some Vallejo Matt Medium as this is supposed to dull Vallejo items like paint and top coat - still no good the paintwork is refusing to dry anything but a satin finish. I understand certain paint colours of Vallejo tend to stay a satin colour depsite being a matt paint - namely red and blue (something about the pigments) OC.
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Evening all, some more progress today - I have decided to place a few KGL 5th Light infantry in my dio, thease were sent down along with the 5th Line regiment to bolster the members deffending the Farm, they differed from the Line regiment as they did mot wear back packs, the figures I have are un shaped on thier backs ready to take the back packs, so I have had to do some shaping to put some extensions of thier belts, quite a fiddly job requiring scraping the backs to form belt lines. After priming with Vallejo Black surface primer I then started with the Red layers (this has been darkened with dark Brown to make it more brick Red than bright Red) then I painted on the Off White belts including one in dark Brown. Time consuming but steady trying not to mess them up, OC.
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Didn't know you had started a 1/200 scale build Greg😮 OC.
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Superb work engineering of excellence in minture. OC.
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Evening all, just a bit more work on the 5th KGL including some toing and throwing as I improve with my technique - I re touch up what I have done before, to get a uniform appearence - including adding "toshes" OC.
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I see, so you still have to shape them yourself? OC.
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Looking good, and what a great idea the frames being pre beveled - very very clever. OC.
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Very nice work Edward - love what you are doing with shaping around the center hatch (very clever and tidy idea) I appreciate what you are going through with the decking mine was the same on my Greyhound build. OC.
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You should my friend - its a great way of killing time hours just float away while I'm at the table - also you dont need much room. OC.
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Evening all, another 55th Voltigeur finished. OC.
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