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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Old Collingwood
    Goodmorning/evening/day folks, not much work over the past 24 hrs we had some house types issues that kept me away from the bench, I will be back on her tomorrow, with a keen eagerness. Folks I have a question and really hope someone can help please, I am without any cannons/carriages for my build and I have looked through the normal parts sites like Cornwall Model Boats - checking out the different companies, Corel, mantua etc etc, but so far I can not find any 9pdr small 1/100 scale period cannons and carriages, for my build. Can anyone help with this please. OC.
  2. Old Collingwood
    Superb looking ship really beautiful. OC.
  3. Old Collingwood
    Hi Danny, will you be painting her when she is finished? OC.
  4. Old Collingwood
    She is looking really nice, with the inside bulwarks you could try red ocre as I beliieve it was a faily normal paint medium, perhaps you could try that, (Its the same color as inside my bulwarks on my build). OC.
  5. Old Collingwood
    Hi there, no its my first planking, I thought it would be a good tool towards the second planking keeping it as tidy and experience towards the second planking, getting a feel for the flow of the boat and how her profile goes with the planks. OC.
  6. Old Collingwood
    Hi folks more work on the bench(table) today, I started by removing the pins holding the last planks glued, after doing this and checking the joints, I sanded them flush with the other ones, then I decided to have a go at some dropped planks - this was a time consuming job measuring and checking then sanding, measuring and checking then sanding, then one by one I did three out of the four so far to be done. Here are the pics folks. OC.
  7. Old Collingwood
    More work on the lower hull planking today, I decided to try the idea of working from the keel in rows upwards, till I meet the plank below the wale, it just took a little plank bending at both the bow and stern, but the middle section went on dry with no adjustment. Here are the pics - OC.
  8. Old Collingwood
    Hi there, many thanks for all that, kind of what I was thinking - I was going to work from the keel upwards, each row at a time letting the planks follow the line upwards towards the bow and stern in a natural flow, (to me it looks like an eye shape where they leave a gap in the middle to be planked) I was going to continue till the center towards the single plank below the wale is planked, then add any dropped or stealer planks. Hope this makes sense. OC.
  9. Old Collingwood
    Supposed to be - Red Ocre, inside wood frammings and inside gun lids. Yellow Ocre, inside bulwarks and gun carrages etc, also the yellow ish bands on the outside hull are yellow ocre, and dull black/semi dull satin, the black bands on the hull and other black feactures. Hope this helps. OC.
  10. Old Collingwood
    Those look Superb. OC.
  11. Old Collingwood
    Same comments as Sjors - great work. OC.
  12. Old Collingwood
    Amazing work danny really really good, its just amazing that card can prove to be so sturdy for model making. OC.
  13. Old Collingwood
    I took a deep breath and started work on the lower hull planking today, first I used one of the thinner planks and lay it over the ribs to get natural line then marked the line with a pencil, I decided to break the run of the plank into three sections to aid placing and glueing, I discovered that the plank closest to the wale just needed thinning nearest the bow to avoid bending the plank, I did this by just cutting a slight amount of the top of the plank nearest the bow, I cut the plank back to the third rib and placed it in hot water to soften to aid bending, this took about two hours then with enough pva and pins I got it placed, I continued with the second and longest plank that just sat next to the first one without any manipulation just glue and pins, the third one needed to be shaped to meet the rear section, so again it was placed in hot water for a couple of hours, then when it was plyable I got a slight shape to it and glued and pinned. I then decided as I was on a roll that I would have a go at the other end of the hull planking closest to the keel planks I had fitted a few years ago, again I ran a thin plank to get a natural line and marked this with a pencil, this showed that I would need a dropped plank at both ends, again I decided to split the run into three sections, the middle (longest section) was fitted first - no need for soaking with this one just glue and pinned, next I soaked the mid - rudder plank and after getting some shape with it, I placed it against the middle plank, third and final plank was sanded and soaked to fit, then again glue and pins and left over night to dry. This is where I am at the moment folks.
  14. Old Collingwood
    Thank you for your kind words, I am finding the larger scale and lack of tiny-tiny parts on my Warspite, easier to cope with and less stressful on my hands, my fingers were tending to lock with all the small details but wood even at 1/100 scale does seem less painful to work with. OC.
  15. Old Collingwood
    Sorry for high jacking your thread william - hope you didn't mind tto much. OC.
  16. Old Collingwood
    Just tried to send you a private message daniel, but it said you was not receiving any messages. OC.
  17. Old Collingwood
    More progress today, I removed the pins from the bottom edge of the wale, then after a light sanding, It was ready to paint flat black like the other side, I applied several light coats drying with a hairdryer between each. Photo shows the current progress. OC.
  18. Old Collingwood
    Mike are you going to have to make your beak from scratch? the reason I ask - I would like to have a go at scratch building one for my 1/100 scale HMS Greyhound, as the one that comes in the box is a ruff metal one, I just dont kno the first place to start as my scratch building experience is very limited. OC.
  19. Old Collingwood
    More work continued today in two stages, first I sanded down the top section of the wale as I built it in several pieces, then I had to drill through for the run outs, next I went through the holes with a 2mm square file and carefully opened up the ports. Next I shaped the end near the beak head end of the next section of wale (a complete length this time) and put this end in boling water to soften ready for bending, after a few hours I was able to pin the beak head end then working from bow to stern I ran a length of pins holding the wale in place till set. I also ran a pencil line above the wale to match what I had done on the other side(acting as a visual extension of the wale). Here are the pics folks. OC.
  20. Old Collingwood
    See you over there - bring a chair plenty of room still and free Jamie Dodgers ......yum yum. OC.
  21. Old Collingwood
    Yep it is different from plastic mind you I started wood projects before plastic on here, I love both in thier different ways. OC.
  22. Old Collingwood
    Thank you for your kind words and all the masses of likes my friend. OC.
  23. Old Collingwood
    I use lifecolor and had no problems but also hand paint never spray, at 1/350 scale the sub assemblies are small enouth to be painted by hand, what I did/do find usefull is to keep the pots stired whils't working with them also to keep the tops of the pots/jars real clean from dried paint residue. OC.
  24. Old Collingwood
    Thats the wifes department knitting from days past. OC.
  25. Old Collingwood
    This is on my wish list (santa prezzy list) and I seriously must get some of Dafi's bits and pieces including the wood deck. OC.

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