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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Yep then clicked on the contact option where I had to leave my email address and irequest, then one of those security things popped up to proove your human - the normal catcha things with pictures you have to tick several times before you can send the contact request, I tried about five times then I was timed out. OC.
  2. I cant get passed that catcha security thing on syrens site, can anyone help me get to chuck please. OC.
  3. Thank you don, I will give him a shout and say you mentioned him. OC.
  4. Goodmorning/evening/day folks, not much work over the past 24 hrs we had some house types issues that kept me away from the bench, I will be back on her tomorrow, with a keen eagerness. Folks I have a question and really hope someone can help please, I am without any cannons/carriages for my build and I have looked through the normal parts sites like Cornwall Model Boats - checking out the different companies, Corel, mantua etc etc, but so far I can not find any 9pdr small 1/100 scale period cannons and carriages, for my build. Can anyone help with this please. OC.
  5. Hi Danny, will you be painting her when she is finished? OC.
  6. She is looking really nice, with the inside bulwarks you could try red ocre as I beliieve it was a faily normal paint medium, perhaps you could try that, (Its the same color as inside my bulwarks on my build). OC.
  7. Hi there, no its my first planking, I thought it would be a good tool towards the second planking keeping it as tidy and experience towards the second planking, getting a feel for the flow of the boat and how her profile goes with the planks. OC.
  8. Hi folks more work on the bench(table) today, I started by removing the pins holding the last planks glued, after doing this and checking the joints, I sanded them flush with the other ones, then I decided to have a go at some dropped planks - this was a time consuming job measuring and checking then sanding, measuring and checking then sanding, then one by one I did three out of the four so far to be done. Here are the pics folks. OC.
  9. More work on the lower hull planking today, I decided to try the idea of working from the keel in rows upwards, till I meet the plank below the wale, it just took a little plank bending at both the bow and stern, but the middle section went on dry with no adjustment. Here are the pics - OC.
  10. Hi there, many thanks for all that, kind of what I was thinking - I was going to work from the keel upwards, each row at a time letting the planks follow the line upwards towards the bow and stern in a natural flow, (to me it looks like an eye shape where they leave a gap in the middle to be planked) I was going to continue till the center towards the single plank below the wale is planked, then add any dropped or stealer planks. Hope this makes sense. OC.
  11. Supposed to be - Red Ocre, inside wood frammings and inside gun lids. Yellow Ocre, inside bulwarks and gun carrages etc, also the yellow ish bands on the outside hull are yellow ocre, and dull black/semi dull satin, the black bands on the hull and other black feactures. Hope this helps. OC.
  12. Amazing work danny really really good, its just amazing that card can prove to be so sturdy for model making. OC.
  13. I took a deep breath and started work on the lower hull planking today, first I used one of the thinner planks and lay it over the ribs to get natural line then marked the line with a pencil, I decided to break the run of the plank into three sections to aid placing and glueing, I discovered that the plank closest to the wale just needed thinning nearest the bow to avoid bending the plank, I did this by just cutting a slight amount of the top of the plank nearest the bow, I cut the plank back to the third rib and placed it in hot water to soften to aid bending, this took about two hours then with enough pva and pins I got it placed, I continued with the second and longest plank that just sat next to the first one without any manipulation just glue and pins, the third one needed to be shaped to meet the rear section, so again it was placed in hot water for a couple of hours, then when it was plyable I got a slight shape to it and glued and pinned. I then decided as I was on a roll that I would have a go at the other end of the hull planking closest to the keel planks I had fitted a few years ago, again I ran a thin plank to get a natural line and marked this with a pencil, this showed that I would need a dropped plank at both ends, again I decided to split the run into three sections, the middle (longest section) was fitted first - no need for soaking with this one just glue and pinned, next I soaked the mid - rudder plank and after getting some shape with it, I placed it against the middle plank, third and final plank was sanded and soaked to fit, then again glue and pins and left over night to dry. This is where I am at the moment folks.
  14. Thank you for your kind words, I am finding the larger scale and lack of tiny-tiny parts on my Warspite, easier to cope with and less stressful on my hands, my fingers were tending to lock with all the small details but wood even at 1/100 scale does seem less painful to work with. OC.
  15. Sorry for high jacking your thread william - hope you didn't mind tto much. OC.
  16. Just tried to send you a private message daniel, but it said you was not receiving any messages. OC.
  17. More progress today, I removed the pins from the bottom edge of the wale, then after a light sanding, It was ready to paint flat black like the other side, I applied several light coats drying with a hairdryer between each. Photo shows the current progress. OC.
  18. Mike are you going to have to make your beak from scratch? the reason I ask - I would like to have a go at scratch building one for my 1/100 scale HMS Greyhound, as the one that comes in the box is a ruff metal one, I just dont kno the first place to start as my scratch building experience is very limited. OC.
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