Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Carried on today with the bow section - I put the capstans on and applied a few coats of contrasting paint, I have also done a small amount of dry brushing to highlight some details and add a bit of an edge. OC.
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I know how you fell about the armour strips (remember by problems making them from paper strips) Its such a difficult situation either thay are too over done or nothing at all, it certainly pushes are skills and imagination. OC.
- 342 replies
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- 4
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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Loving your work greg, so much more complete when the deck and hull are married together, my desision to do s much detail to the deck sections is just for my own convenience of keeping seperate small sections that i can get my small magnifier over on my work mat. I love your idea to build Dreadnought as she could have been considered the for runner to Warspite, so of particular interest to me. OC.
- 342 replies
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- 5
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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Thank you mark - the vacume idea is great but come to late I am affraid - the wife has already vacumed up and emptied the bag, and no way am i gonna go through our dustbin with a magnifier in "honey i shrunk the kids scenario" I would be put in a mental hospital . OC
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I have to be honest I am quietly over the moon with my ability so far, yes its taking ages but I am learning new abilities with each task, its a completly different build from my old airfix 600scale Hood/Bismark kits I built when I was a teenager. Im pleased folks OC.
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More progress on the bow section - i fitted the three sets of bollards then painted the steel base around them deck grey, and the bollards light grey, I have also decided to paint the anchor chain deck plates a deck grey colour instead of the red oxide anti rust color(as i dont have it and the captain wanted it uniform deck grey color) the Hawse Pipe and surround as well as the Capstan and plate have been painted light grey. I also decided to return to the rear block area and give the top rail fittings a light coat of black paint, as the real cables where black colour in real life. Here are a few pics. OC.
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Carried on today with the Bow fittings including a few more hatch covers, two fittings towards the front of the bow that I have no idea what they are for, and the capstan wheel frames and wheels, one became a victim to the carpet monster so my Warspite will just have to rely on two anchors in action - mind you i doubt all three would be in use anyway?. Here are a couple more pics folks. OC.
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Thanks greg, I have added the skuttle plates and the anchor chain plat guides since the pictures above, I have also added a few of the hatch covers. OC
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Managed to put some wood down on the Bow section today, this was a careful job of cutting the deck from the backing strip, then carefully placing it as you only get one shot as the glue is so sticky, it fitted quite well and any small gaps will be invisible and hidden by the etch hatch covers that I have to fit. Here is a couple of pics. OC.
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Hi Hank, I know what you mean regarding the hull detail that a lot of kit manufacturers leave out of thier models, I encountered the same with my HMS Warspte build on here, the real ship was built up in overlocking armour plates of similar size and distance appart, this continued under the waterline and along the bottom of the hull, I had to attack this by using strips on paper sheet all the same width and applied with PVA then when painted over and sanded back they gave the right profile and not too over scale thick. Have a look at my build on here Regards OC
- 187 replies
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- new jersey
- trumpeter
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Another day at the table (Thats Two days in a row) If I carry on at this rate i will finish it in about a year LOL, I have continued with the decking areas in preperation for the wood decks, I decided from day one to scrape/sand/file the old plastic scribbed detail off the plastic decks, this wil not only make a better key for the glue on the peel off backing but also make the scale hight more realistic around obstructions. Here are a couple of pics of the completed decks prior to placing the wood deck sheets. OC.
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Spent a bit more time on the table today - preparing a couple of the rear deck boats, next i decided to start the mind numbing job of removing the pre moulded deck detail in preperation for the forward section of wood decking, this was slow and careful work wife a fine knife blade and small file, afterwards i started on the decking sheet cutting out the obstructions with a sharp blade. I finished off by dry fitting both deck sections with the dry fitted wood deck sheet with its backing still attached. Here is a couple of pics just to show how it is shaping up. OC.
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Have you seen the Film Battleship? it show cases the Mighty Mo in great detail, Love that film. OC.
- 187 replies
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- new jersey
- trumpeter
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Looking Fantastic Hank - just shows how slowly slowly does the trick, if you are like me I do a little bit then put it down till I kind of get the urge to do more, my Warspite will probably take about 5 years to build at my pace. OC.
- 187 replies
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- new jersey
- trumpeter
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More work today finishing off the Rear Block by adding the Derricks, and the two small buildings that where glued down on the deck area, I then fixed the block down to the deck. Heres two pics showing the completed work on the deck secion so far. OC.
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Looking Superb Greg, it just goes to show - that the camera never lies and has a habbit of showing up every detail, your close work passes the test with flying colours my friend OC.
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I dug deep inside my work bag today and found the box from the kit, I was looking for a couple of frets to add some more stuff, I found the hull sitting at the bottom so I decided to do a dry run with the mid deck section, and the rear block i am finishing off, I put them together with the other deck sections. Hers a pic. OC.
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I have nealy completed the rear block except for the mast, i added the two derricks and touched up a few areas of paintwork. Here are a few photos of the progress - OC.
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Those sponge sanding blocks are Brill for sanding as they follow contours and are abrasive enough to sand down where you want to, ive used them for everything from household skirting to wood boats. OC
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I agree with what others have said - applying Diluted PVA is a good idea but make sure you leave the whole area after applying, a good few days to dry then give it a good sanding to key the area. OC.
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Latest pic showing the rail set and touched up slightly. OC.
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Just a quick look at what i had done by fixing the rail down in a small puddle of slightly watered down PVA, and its stuck nicely, i will do the same for the other side then touch up as needed - i can relese my breath now onlt been holding for about 4 days lol. OC
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It looks good on the fret and is easy to paint etc - tillI have to take any off it off Cant I just leave it on the fret please folks .....? OC
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