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Old Collingwood

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  1. Old Collingwood
    Supposed to be - Red Ocre, inside wood frammings and inside gun lids. Yellow Ocre, inside bulwarks and gun carrages etc, also the yellow ish bands on the outside hull are yellow ocre, and dull black/semi dull satin, the black bands on the hull and other black feactures. Hope this helps. OC.
  2. Old Collingwood
    Those look Superb. OC.
  3. Old Collingwood
    Same comments as Sjors - great work. OC.
  4. Old Collingwood
    Amazing work danny really really good, its just amazing that card can prove to be so sturdy for model making. OC.
  5. Old Collingwood
    I took a deep breath and started work on the lower hull planking today, first I used one of the thinner planks and lay it over the ribs to get natural line then marked the line with a pencil, I decided to break the run of the plank into three sections to aid placing and glueing, I discovered that the plank closest to the wale just needed thinning nearest the bow to avoid bending the plank, I did this by just cutting a slight amount of the top of the plank nearest the bow, I cut the plank back to the third rib and placed it in hot water to soften to aid bending, this took about two hours then with enough pva and pins I got it placed, I continued with the second and longest plank that just sat next to the first one without any manipulation just glue and pins, the third one needed to be shaped to meet the rear section, so again it was placed in hot water for a couple of hours, then when it was plyable I got a slight shape to it and glued and pinned. I then decided as I was on a roll that I would have a go at the other end of the hull planking closest to the keel planks I had fitted a few years ago, again I ran a thin plank to get a natural line and marked this with a pencil, this showed that I would need a dropped plank at both ends, again I decided to split the run into three sections, the middle (longest section) was fitted first - no need for soaking with this one just glue and pinned, next I soaked the mid - rudder plank and after getting some shape with it, I placed it against the middle plank, third and final plank was sanded and soaked to fit, then again glue and pins and left over night to dry. This is where I am at the moment folks.
  6. Old Collingwood
    Thank you for your kind words, I am finding the larger scale and lack of tiny-tiny parts on my Warspite, easier to cope with and less stressful on my hands, my fingers were tending to lock with all the small details but wood even at 1/100 scale does seem less painful to work with. OC.
  7. Old Collingwood
    Sorry for high jacking your thread william - hope you didn't mind tto much. OC.
  8. Old Collingwood
    Just tried to send you a private message daniel, but it said you was not receiving any messages. OC.
  9. Old Collingwood
    More progress today, I removed the pins from the bottom edge of the wale, then after a light sanding, It was ready to paint flat black like the other side, I applied several light coats drying with a hairdryer between each. Photo shows the current progress. OC.
  10. Old Collingwood
    Mike are you going to have to make your beak from scratch? the reason I ask - I would like to have a go at scratch building one for my 1/100 scale HMS Greyhound, as the one that comes in the box is a ruff metal one, I just dont kno the first place to start as my scratch building experience is very limited. OC.
  11. Old Collingwood
    More work continued today in two stages, first I sanded down the top section of the wale as I built it in several pieces, then I had to drill through for the run outs, next I went through the holes with a 2mm square file and carefully opened up the ports. Next I shaped the end near the beak head end of the next section of wale (a complete length this time) and put this end in boling water to soften ready for bending, after a few hours I was able to pin the beak head end then working from bow to stern I ran a length of pins holding the wale in place till set. I also ran a pencil line above the wale to match what I had done on the other side(acting as a visual extension of the wale). Here are the pics folks. OC.
  12. Old Collingwood
    See you over there - bring a chair plenty of room still and free Jamie Dodgers ......yum yum. OC.
  13. Old Collingwood
    Yep it is different from plastic mind you I started wood projects before plastic on here, I love both in thier different ways. OC.
  14. Old Collingwood
    Thank you for your kind words and all the masses of likes my friend. OC.
  15. Old Collingwood
    I use lifecolor and had no problems but also hand paint never spray, at 1/350 scale the sub assemblies are small enouth to be painted by hand, what I did/do find usefull is to keep the pots stired whils't working with them also to keep the tops of the pots/jars real clean from dried paint residue. OC.
  16. Old Collingwood
    Thats the wifes department knitting from days past. OC.
  17. Old Collingwood
    This is on my wish list (santa prezzy list) and I seriously must get some of Dafi's bits and pieces including the wood deck. OC.
  18. Old Collingwood
    Folks I thought I better say - I havn't given up on the ole girl, Im just having a bit of a break and working on my other project HMS Greyhound 1720s RN Frigate, pop along and say hello. OC.
  19. Old Collingwood
    I couldn't resist doing some more work at the bench(living room table) I have decided to increase the apparent width of the wale by painting a strip ontop of the (Insatlled wale side), first I ran a line and then taped an even line with blue decorators tape, then I applied a few flat black coats of acrylic paint, this I will do on the side where I am constructing the wale sections also. OC.
  20. Old Collingwood
    Looking nice a sharp those dafi bits are superb. OC.
  21. Old Collingwood
    After the last strip was set, I began sanding it back level with the other second planking, it then occured to me that I would need to mark a line and cut into the last planking, this is to allow for the profile of the wale, this was done by measuring the line from bow to stern from the top of the bulwark rails down to the already fitted wale on the other side, then after marking a line I placed a plank against the line and used my sharp blade to cut a line all the way along, then I cut the sections out. After a clean up the line looked ok so I started cutting and fitting the first narrow section of wale, in sections as I did not have a full length just off cuts, these were glued and pinned in position. Here are the pics folks - OC.
  22. Old Collingwood
    X about Ten Thousand for every boat builder on here. OC.
  23. Old Collingwood
    Really nice work - love the cannons. OC.
  24. Old Collingwood
    Very nice work. OC.
  25. Old Collingwood
    Not much to say really just another row - this time second planking, soaked it then glued and pinned, now put a side to dry. OC.

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