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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Alan, I have exactly the same machine, well still in box. What I heard from an Ender forum it's essential to get everything "plumbed" leveled correctly. Make sure you set the speed slightly slower than the slicer suggests, you will get a very smooth surface that way. Here is a link with help to get smooth surface. I bought mine directly from the manufacturers warehouse in CA. At the same time I got an extra glass bed and the "yellow/gold" springs. There are a silicon type of support instead of spring that many are vouching for. Another upgrade you should consider is a "silent" motherboard for the machine this will eliminate a lot of sound from the motors. In the mail today I am receiving LANMU Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Adapter Flexible Extender Compatible with Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3/Ender 5/Monoprice Mini 3D Printer/Anet A8 3D Printer/Raspberry Pi/GPS/TV (23.6in/60cm) Looking forward to see the hull pieces coming together. As mentioned before Haze Gray (a good friend of mine by the) printed the ship I have in my garage and he added a detail to make sure the hull pieces lined up perfectly. Something to consider for your next ship. See attached:
- 460 replies
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- Finished
- Flower-class
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Go with the great items of boxwood deadeyes for ship models - scale scale boxwood deadeyes, Fiddle blocks, boxwood scale hearts (syrenshipmodelcompany.com) Billing Boats has never created any resin blocks or other items to my knowledge. According to BB (Billing Boats) this is an expert model. Unless you have other builds "under your belt" this is a not a starter kit ..... even with the low price tag!
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Tim, Thank you for all the information. Many users claims go with the basic before doing any upgrades. Figure out how your machine works and thereafter upgrade to necessary parts you would like. I certainly agree to that, but if many has used same parts at a later date with success why not update from the start. Yes, that defeats the purpose of getting going. I have watched a lot of videos and also reading what to do when it comes to 3D printing. It's not that easy as majority thinks, it takes some knowledges in drafting (unless you download ready made stl files). I am looking into the items you have suggested, and I am considering which to do first. Thanks again for your input.
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A while back I invested in a 3d printer (unfortunate still in box, due to limited time). I would consider myself fairly good with Fusion360 which is my primary program. The printer is not the tool to replace already available parts for current available parts from Syren Company or anyone else. Having a printer will help me to create my own model and parts from plans and make it to my desired scale. This will be in RC area. I already have a 4ft long Swedish dreadnought waiting to be finalized in the garage. I will provide my input and experience when it comes to 3D printing, even though it may not be on pro-level.
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WalrusGuy, please don't be shy..... it's okay to reveal a true first name.....🙂 I just finished reading through your build log and I have to write (say) your ship is coming along beautifully. I remember when I received my kit (waiting to be built) how heavy the box was. Your build log will certainly help me.
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Fiberglass a boat Hull
Nirvana replied to Riotvan88's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The only area where I have carbon fiber material is in my mast for the T37. Good enough for the sailing I am doing, will take a lot of force to break. -
Another 'newbie' joins the fold!
Nirvana replied to Ian Barefoot's topic in New member Introductions
Ian, a warm -
Fiberglass a boat Hull
Nirvana replied to Riotvan88's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Ron, It just dawned on me, my log disappeared when we had the "Big Crash" in 2013, and I don't have saved independent log on my PC. -
Fiberglass a boat Hull
Nirvana replied to Riotvan88's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You don't need kevlar. Kevlar is a very flexible material being used in protective west for enforcement. Masts on extreme racing sailing yachts are made out of it. Very lightweight. Racing bicycles are entirely made out this material. You can lift such bike with two fingers without any effort. Try that with a bike from the 80's. Besides it's nasty stuff to work with, just like fiberglass. You need really good ventilation and PPE. Take a look at my T37 build log and you may pick up an idea when it comes to be working with epoxy. Good luck. -
Fiberglass a boat Hull
Nirvana replied to Riotvan88's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I can vouch for the West products as my r/c T37 got an epoxy surface before being primed and painted. Did not use any fiberglass! -
Grant, I have some words for you! Neat! Clean! Tidy! Amazing! Think this model on a crystal clear stand with only description highlighted!
- 109 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nicely done! I am doing the racing version too, and again the "bilge pump" made out of white metal are ugly. Looking forward to see what you are coming up with. Haven't decided on full or furled sails.
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- bluenose
- model shipways
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Grant, The progress of yours is amazing. It's so clean, but I found an easy way to get the blackening done in another way. I used matt black spray paint (enamel - Testor) and once dried a coat of flat varnish (also spray).
- 109 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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