Nirvana
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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Henrik, det där ser riktigt snyggt ut. God Jul. That looks so nice. -
Bradley, that looks so good. Don't let the painters tape sit to long, the adhesive starts to set hard after 4 hours. Makes it hard to get it off without damaging the surface.
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Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Nirvana replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Peterbrowne, No wonder it hasn't been available for a long time. Hopefully the changes are worth waiting for. -
Harvey, Warm , Astoria is a beautiful place, visited the place several times. Last time was two years ago, delivering a 3d printed Tug and Barge to the Tongue Point Job Corps Seamanship program.
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SkiBee, it took me several tries before I got the seizing correct. And yes, close up we are all our worst critics. If you stand three feet away from your model, you won't see it.
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- model shipways
- 18th century longboat
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Grant, very nice job with the detailing.....
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Ian, Having a 3d printer and simple cad knowledge can certainly help to replicate items. Is am using Fusion 360 and have a 3d printer (still unboxed). Nice job on the ladder.
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Beautiful and delicate!
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BeeWee, from PNW a warm Bluenose is a great ship to build and has a lot of history to it. Besides MSW has many build logs for you to look into regarding details and ideas. Airbrushing is a completely different chapter, many of our builders don't use that kind of tool, only regular high quality brush. For large areas, sure airbrushing is helpful.... but then again, airbrushing can be used in other areas than model building, comes really handy around the home as well. When it comes to airbrushing, a compressor with a tank (provides the best and even pressure) is to go for. Regarding brand I have no idea, but expect to invest some 140 -160 dollars for the unit itself. Now the "brushes" are the tool that will create the flow and patterns, here is a simple rule "Higher Price = Higher Quality" Again expect to price tags from 120 and upwards for good quality, here I do have some recommendations; Badger, Iawata and Paache is names to look at. Airbrushing is fun, my Bluenose is airbrushed. Practicing with plain water on a regular paper will give you the feel of the "brush" Good luck and a very warm Welcome.
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Mike, from PNW a warm Wishing you and family a nice and safe Thanksgiving.
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Greetings from the Cumberland Mountains
Nirvana replied to RandyR's topic in New member Introductions
Randy, A warm to , have a nice Thanksgiving. -
Didn't look at your profile John, but I like when I see another member from WA, USA.
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John, very nice start of Bluenose, As for my kit, there were no walnut included, but since the hull is painted it didn't matter to me. Nice work on the details and as you will find out along the building way, you will experiment with various solutions to achieve the look you want. For others who haven't tried the "razor blade type of saw", get one! It will be a tremendous help while building. Btw, warm welcome to MSW.
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Lou, it's not that hard even you can create a simple model, doesn't have to be a ship or such..... take a shoe box or something similar. Place it in an angle you prefer and start using paper and pencil. All it takes is practice, practice and more practice..... our eyes sees in 3d, translate that to a perspective view on the paper. As for me, I would never be able to create these amazing paintings.... the details along with life in the paintings that comes alive.
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There's no short cut to go when it comes to convert jpg to dwg/dfx. I tried Inkscape, gave up. Using Fusion360, importing any picture for tracing to create a file that can be converted to dwg. As stated above jpg's is a pixelated picture where it's hard to find the perfect center in a line. When zooming in you will experience fuzziness which will make it even harder. That being said, if you try to make laser parts you will find it will extremely difficult to make it accurate. Because a draft line on a picture doesn't relate to the fine laser cutting. I.e on a drawing the line might be .7 mm, which is very coarse for a laser.
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I have to many great ships in stash to be built, but yes I would love to jump on to this escapade building the Winchelsea. Beautiful start of the build log.
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Chris, have you tried to work with poplar? Seems to have the boxwood characteristic and easy to find and buy. Slightly more dense but beautiful too.
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Great jig work, Thomas I better print that one out otherwise I will forget how you did it.
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Fusion 360 is another great program for this purpose, can also be used for creating sheet metal (p/e) parts. Haven't tried Blender but have heard a lot of good about the program. Yes, all CAD programs has a learning curve, some are easier in the beginning just to get started but also has a lot of potentials. I am to combine Fusion 360 with Cura for slicing to create the 3d object. My Ender 3 V2 arrived today, which will be a lot of fun to use.
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Nice repair job, I am glad you overcame that issue. Looks very good!
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Take a look at this website, specializing with tools for the plastic models. This link will take you directly to the scribers. I have bought items from them and am very pleased.
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HSwMS Äran by Nirvana
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Tony, I wish I could take that credit but no. Thank you for the compliment. I will forward this to my friend. I have a friend who is very much into dreadnoughts, Autodesk Fusion 360 and 3d printing. He did the work. I am just putting this together. However, since there is no assembly plan to follow I have to plan this very carefully. I am also considering getting my own 3d printer. I have knowledge with Fusion 360 so it "should" be easy to create my own parts in the future.
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